Petersubaru

..Sorry to have mis-understood from my previous posts..I thought the steering wheel was vibrating...I would think the next step would be to drain and fill several times the tranny fluid..although I am useing the Dexron VI, I would not recommend the use of it for a Subaru (the verdict is still out from my own experience)..since GM has removed the licenseing for Dexron II/III, there are compatible fluids like the Multi Vehicle Fluid from from Castrol or Mobile..I am sure someone will chime in for there rec. fluid.. then again you can buy from the dealer

TSB of Jan15/04 ..if you are experiencing abnormal noise ..and/Or ..a slight vibration in the steering wheel when turning at very slow speeds...a new and upgraded power steering hose might be needed....the 1st repair would be to remove the (1) bolt and bracket that holds down the metal PS pipe..if the vibration has disappeared, no further action is needed...2nd repair would be to exchange the hose and if this does not work...then replace the PS pump..new hose assembly # 34610AE09B...old hose # has an A at the end

One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post, was also a feeling of "brakeing", if I remember correctly, it only happened when backing up while at the same time turning the steering maybe a 1/4 turn..the steering wheel also at that time shook slightly when putting pressure to turn the wheel..for me I didn't think it could possibly be torque bind because the driveway was snow covered

if the various ball joints/tie rods are good...I would then suspect that the power steering Pump is causing this problem ..sharp turns/slow moving car/vibrating steering wheel...sounds like a problem I had a while back...added "lubegard" power steering additive..its been good since then..also check Very closely that there are no fluid or air leakage at the hoses connected to the pump..new clamps may be needed

bring the pressure down to what the door label specifies..then experiment by stopping..you should feel a difference

..One other important item.. before removing the carb base nuts...drain some coolant by disconnecting that little coolant hose attached to the manifold just below the carb base or drain a little from the rad ..you want the coolant level to be below the intake level...I drained about 3 cups of coolant..then this way no coolant will enter the manifold and mix with the oil...the OE carb base gasket # is: 16173 AA001..when comparing the OE gasket to the one that comes with the carb...you will know what I mean..sometime after it is all done, you could lightly tighten up the 4 base nuts

I mentioned 2 gaskets because I have a 1/4" plastic or bakelite spacer that fits between the carb and intake manifold..that is the way it came from the dealer

You will need 2 base gaskets from subaru .....OEM gaskets are so much better in quality and will prevent any coolant from leaking down into the cylinders for along time to come..

it all depends on the person who put it together..a little side note here, but I am beginning to think that the performance greatly depends on the correct setting of the "float"..one measurement for example being 1.1mm..very finiky and difficult to accomplish ...certainly very unlike a"holley" double pumper..let me know how the carb turns out for you and don't forget to check the tightness of the screws..I found one that was somewhat lose

the new carb was for an '86 EA...there is no specific mention of new throttle shaft bushings..just re-manufactured to new condition..however I did check shaft for play and there is None..also when looking in detail at the base for example, anything that could be "removed or drilled out" has been replaced with new ....I wanted to mention which I did not before..all my emission stuff has been removed so most of the vac ports have been plugged on the carb and manifold...also previously I had a 3 prong plug and the one I purchased is a 4 prong plug..the red wire just needs to be grounded..very small differences in the jet sizes between the former and newer carb..

I may Also have to order that "decal" if this carb works like it did this morning and as described above..snow up to my a##..car started no problem..well below freezing here ...waited one minute and drove away, not even a hickup..once it was fully warmed up I further adjusted the idle to 900rpm..runs reallly smooth..eventually I will hookup the "stove pipe" to it

For what ever it is worth to someone looking for a carb and to make a long story short, the FI conversion was not applicable since this carb purchase was more of an experiment...Just installed a new/reman carb from a reseller on Ebay (deerfoot auto parts..$94) very surprised that when starting this car with 25degF outside, it immediately started after a couple of turns and ran smoothly, no stumble or hesitation which is so often associated with these carbs..it truely reminded me of when the car was new (1986)..I am very familiar from my own past experiences and friends who have purchased rebuilds only to find that the new carb is not much better then the old ..anyway, my rebuild was done by Tomco and the parts that they used seem to the eye to be of a better quality and the only adjustment needed was to lower the fast idle (screw)

From my experience, the "thinner" the oil the lesser the noise..

Your info would be also appreciated when the car comes back..

this for an 86 EA application..just wondering if a carb with 4 prong connector can be made to work on a car with the 3 prong set-up..obviously I don't know what the other (4th) wire is for

...when suddenly braking on ice, the pulsating is happening so quickly that it feels like they are locked up...with more traction at the tire thread (for example useing snow tires) slows down this pulsating action

I have compared 2 cars ..one with "snow tires" and the other with "all season"..when suddenly stopping with all season tires on snowy/slippery roads, the ABS was useless..as soon as you touch the pedal it activates the ABS ( like having your wheels lock-up and no control..might even cause your car to speed up if your on ice )..now the same model car with the blizzaks tire and when on the same road conditions, provided a much shorter stopping distance...my feeling is that the extra grip from the snow tires made the ABS worth having..but without snow tires to provide that extra "grip" it just might be better to disconnect the ABS for the winter...all the police cars around here have the ABS disconnected

..if 80% or close to it can be removed...this would be an exellent way to make this almost a "one step" method to changing the fluid...perhaps those percentages can be slightly increased by adding 1 qt of extra fluid to the system just before starting the car and draining the system

I think trying this method would involve the fluid to be added thru the dip stick opening plus one extra person..

I don't know if it makes any difference, but just curious here..when looking at that same ebay site...the $74 pump has a different impellar design..rock auto.com has a good selection and pics..

I have changed the Auto tranny fluid severals times now..when draining I lift up the other side of the car...would I get more fluid out if I momentarily started the car (without driving it of course) or leave it running a few seconds while it is draining...or even lifting the front end up a foot or so after the pan is emptied

once you know that the master cylinder is ready..one method is to open up all 4 bleeder screws at once and let the brake fluid gravity feed out the bleeders (saves on extra pumping, hand or foot)..then close them and start to bleed each side separately..a good book would be handy..

Not having seen your every move.. I would say that there is a possibilty of the "master brake cylinder" needing to be primed

..interesting info..for further reference, what year is your "loyale"..if my problem starts up again, I will then change out the coil

Success..But I don't know how??..late last night took the car for spin..no hesitation..this morning the same thing..the car drives as it should..I did nothing to it...anyway this morning I would also check just for fun if 5 volts were going to the TB and it is OK but only 1/2 volt going to the coolant sensor..I don't know if this is normal, but for now, appears to fine