Petersubaru

once I find success with this I will let those who are interested know exactly what is the problem

01 outback ...better then stock set up with very little dust, no noise, good initial grip at any speed..I am very happy..I stayed with the stock discs and Akabono HP cermanic..the rears are just reg akabono

I forgot to mention that when the car is running I only get 11.38V at the coil while the alternator is putting out about 14V

..Sorry Cougar , but perhaps you missed it in my first posting ..but I have a "carbed" 96 loyale..no ECU..thanks for trying anyway

...Not to add any more confusion here, but directly above the hood latch and the only item attached to the side wall as described above is the "fuel pump control box"...if this, is what you mean as the rev sensor,...this item has also been exchanged with no difference to the main problem...however, just above that FPCB and connected to the front of the dash is a 1.5"x1.5" cube with many wires going into it...is this what you are referring too as the rev sensor..Thanks

the detailed info will be greatly needed once it stops raining and warms up...if the rev sensor is located in the speedo cluster, it's the only thing i have not changed out...also from time to time when just reving the motor it will die out...

unhooking the choke..I will give that a try to be on the safe side...are there any other possible reasons outside of the choke for the fuse to blow

...the "stain of oil" on the filter I can live with, but in my case with the previous new filter in place I had more like a "stream of oil" coming from the connected pvc hose...this filter had only 6000klm on it and it looked fairly clean and visually new reason having to exchange it..the only reason I inspected the breather area is to make sure that I have no mice coming into the breather on a daily bases and useing it as a storage area for food which as happened before ...so to answer your question now ... No, I don't think the old filter was clogged from being dirty, but simply made of some material that does not allow the air to pass thru easily enough and when combined with some very damp and rainy weather such as I have had this winter may have further negatively influenced the breathing ability of the filter paper ...many, many years ago I used only fram air filters, never having a problem, until I experienced one week of solid driving in the rain ...when the second week come around all was dry but the diesel fuel gauge could be easily noticed heading towards empty...although the filter was hardly used and looked near new, I still exchanged it for another one and immediately fuel consumption returned to normal

after driving 3000mi the problem has been solved, very simply by useing a different air filter manufacture (purolator)..no more oil on the inside of the breather case...the previous filter (car quest korean) even when new will hardly let any light thru it when comparing to a purolator or nippon product...

But, everything was running well, .. now the fuel pump/coil fuse keeps blowing, but when I ran a wire from the thermostat to the fuel pump, it seems to run with no problem...does anybody know if something in the speedo cluster could cause problems to the coil or fuel pump

..that was a good call..it should have been the first wire for me to check..the ground strap on my car was ready to come off, just barely hanging in there, so this should take care of the intermittent problem..But, But,

the coil is tightly fastened...Ground strap has not been checked..provided there is one, might explain why when sometimes rocking the car or hitting a bump it either returns to normal or dies out..anybody know where the main ground strap might be located on a carbed loyale

Thanks for mentioning that idea..it was one of the things on my list above that I forgot to include that was already tried..

Because of the intermittent nature of the problem, it has lead me to assume many things to be the problem..the fuel pump has been changed, new 12V wire to the fuel pump and grounded.. the coil has been changed out,.. also the fuel pump control unit exchanged, ..fusible links checked/replaced..what makes it more difficult and confusing, is that with every so-called repair, the car started up immediately, thus leading me to believe the problem was solved..

I have checked the fusible links, still no change to the volt meter...with the key in the "on" postion the voltage still shows only about .3V

No, that is one place I did not check...I will do that later today

On my "1986 EA82 Carbed manual", ..the odd time when going over a bump on the road the car completely dies out..with the key in the "on" postion I am Not getting any voltage to the coil,...but when trying to start the car, I might get 1/2 a volt..sometimes rocking the car will restore power to the coil...when shaking or moving any wires near the coil area or under the dash there is no change...just wondering if someone has any ideas on where the problem might be

I will certainly check that..but how in the world could the hoses get clogged...a side story here,... this has happened to me before on a carbed car with a mouse entering the breather unit daily and stuffing it with dog kibbles

my tranny from time to time takes longer to shift (kind of quirky)...my question is, did the above ATRA make any mention that both items in the photos must be replaced together, or is there a way to determine which part needs changing first before getting into the tranny

..well, I will have to follow this even more closely...I changed the oil myself and measured 4 liters/4.2qt... the pvc is fairly new and the air filter had 16,000kl/10,000mi, highway driven on a car that has 55,000 miles on the OD...this time I have used a purolator filter which seems to allow more light thru the filter when comparing to the other company I used..we'll see...maybe there is something to be said about the rings, but there is no loss of oil between changes

changed the air filter on my 01 outback and noticed some oil on the filter near the hose that is connected to the breather case coming up from the PVC valve..also some oil slightly running down the the inside of the breather case to where the pvc pipe is connected...the filter did not seem to be that dirty but when comparing the old too a new filter with shineing a light thru it..there is at least a 50% reduction in the ability of the light to shine thru..the pvc is near new and moves freely..

the difficult part is measureing the same amount that was taken out..before starting the job make sure that the fluid is up to the "hot" level before draining..determine "exactly" how much was taken out before adding any new fluid..subarus' dip stick is not a very good measureing tool to use for exactness and can drive you crazy with its ability to fluctuate..dexron VI is backward compatible and far more superior ..most important is to keep the tranny oil clean

No need to post pictures...But..Interesting what you said about the bearings.. all I know is from my own experiences from my 85/86 ea82 carbed, bought near new and still going strong..severals years ago I pulled the distributor and the top was a "bearing" and bottom was a bushing that had to be pressed out and replaced with another one with an inside diameter being slightly smaller...anyway this was on a Canadian car, maybe the US cars were different..I also wrote about my experiences when I did the job

buy one of each of the bushings..most likely the smaller size will fit..but if it still "wobbles" from end to end, then generally speaking there is nothing that the home mechanic can do...the top bearing is a "roller or ball" bearing, same type and size used for the clutch pilot bearing is what I think they call it.($5)...about $10-$15 for parts, if you can do the job yourself

Just wondering today with "0"deg F outside that when first starting to brake, it takes a short time to build up pedal pressure to aid in brakeing..once the car is warmed up, no more problem ('86 ea82 turbo auto)