Petersubaru

pull the 3-4 relays from under the dash (they could be well hidden if never touched before) and see if any are burnt..

Looking forward to your experience with the headgaskets

I like to replace the belts with the same company that came off the car...usually these are the best quality belts available and will not stretch like most aftermarket belts..I don't like to retighten belts and possibly again for a second time...on my 01 outback the small belt is "subaru" and the large belt is "Mitsubishi"..even some well known quality companies make various grades of quality, so you never really know what you are getting unless you have a lot of experience in doing this

I need to replace a light bulb and have read my Haynes manual to see what is involved with removing the front dash cluster on o1 outback..just wondering if someone already has done this with some recommendations or advice..

try spraying WD40 all around the connectors or anywhere a vac leak could be possible...also completely unscrew and remove the idle screw and clean it and also the manifold it fits into...for me this was the biggest improvement for idle control and I had to re=seal my dip stick with a new "O" ring and a non-turbo dip stick will not work for proper sealing..(just in case someone exchanged the dip stick)

I agree get rid of it..I have an older one, runs great, but when FI goes or the head leaking, off to the junk pile for bone pickers..parts are hard to come buy, etc, I don't want to make a long story here...a good spfi would be the way to go

`

you are correct, it must be all sold out...the part # was the same as subarus...give rock auto a call and they may tell you when it may be re listed...

$39-40 at rock auto for my 01 outback...manufactured in Japan and in Everyway visually the same as the subaru one I pulled out..even down to the fine print on the new unit..works great

akibono Hp on the front and akibono rears

a 2 barrel carter carb was popular on some of the motors used for flying..usually the intake manifold was made to fit this carb on

you might want to consider the "rostra electronic model" ..ebay has them for about $155 or rostra.com ..really top notch for the money

off topic question here, but what is that hose going into the oil filler cap??

3-5 yrs ago I had severe lifter noise together with oil coming up into the breather area...the car was diagnosed with having worn out main bearings, which would be the natural or immediate assumption...thinking that this was impossible because the oil was changed every 3000mi....eventually the oil/breather problem was fixed with simply changeing out the PVC and the lifter noise was also taken care of by adding a new seal to the pump...but more Importantly, I had to replace the small "O" ring seal between the head and cam shaft carrier..there has never been even a lifter "peep" since this repair was done and many more thousands of miles have been put on the car since..although time for a new oil pump because the seal is slightly leaking again..look under the car, driver side timing cover for any oil..if none your good here, but if you see oil the timing cover needs to be removed for inspection to see if in fact it is the pump or just a leaking cam or crank seal..generally speaking here..if the compression is good and there is no oil leaking from the front of the pump and the newer pump was installed correctly, then most likely the "O" seal on the head needs replacement...maybe someone else will chime in and give you the thread needed about this procedure

your pump is relatively new, but if, you are experienceing a leaking pump (oil leaking from behind the sprocket gear/timing belt) would be a good time to exchange it...some people just add a new seal, but usually the seals don't last that long...if the lifters are running quiet, I would think generally you are fine with what you have presently for a very long time to come

I think this might have to be your call...I just finished looking at the installation manual and personally when comparing it a set-up on a subaru were I could take pictures and immediately take one part off at a time and install that part onto the next car, for me would be the way to go...but since I have never done this before I would think that the hardest part of the job would be attaching the wires etc onto the new signal arm running under the dash(I hate bending over and turning my neck anotheer 180deg)..also haveing some spare parts wouldn't hurt either

you forgot to mention also the "lubrication" of the door hinges

"That'ill teach ya for takeing the car somewhere else"... or in otherwords..this must be subarus' way of punishing those who take there car for brake service to a non-dealer/ un-informed dealer/ mechanic or the DIY

when I purchased my 01 outback last nov. I took the car to our subaru dealer in town here for an inspection..although the brakes were completely new (Rotor and Pads on all 4) the mechanic remarked to me that all was fine in his opinion except the new brakes..he said with most aftermarket installations and also some subaru places are not aware of the proper way to install the pads, to keep them from binding up,when the caliper has been released,...when rotateing the tires he felt that there was to much drag, and although borderline in his opinion, we left the situation as a "wait and see"...2000mi later for another inspection on all 4 wheels, now the inside of the disc was showing abnormal wear, in otherwords the disc was not remaining clean and becoming somewhat rusty in places..the cure for this was to remove 1-1.5mm from the length of the pad so that the pad moves more freely "within" the anti-rattle clips...I should have known better myself because it was a common problem for my 85 vw and 93 pontiac..several thousand miles later all is fine now..don't forget to use the synthetic grease between the shim and pad and on top of the pad and of course the anti-rattle/slider area

just to answer a couple of questions..the turbo unit is very reliable and with my own which has about 220mi on it hardly leaks any oil..if the car operates in the normal heat range when warmed up and stays there under normal driving conditions, then I would assume that the headgasket(s) are Ok..I would be willing to bet that the problem you are experienceing is a result of a leaking manifold gasket and if this turns out to be so, then make sure that who ever works on the car uses a subaru gasket and not an aftermarket one(this is a very important gasket and the after market ones don't work for very long in this case) also, when removing the manifold bolts make sure someone with patience and skill will remove those bolts because if it shears off at the block level, you will be in for an extra $500 dollars to remove the stud..if the body of the car is still decent with only 99k, then it would definitly be worth keeping and fixing the car..also if you decide to keep the car in the future, come back to this site and develope a better understanding about the turbos and how to avoid any other problems that would be associated with an ageing car and other things to be aware of..... a couple of side stories on "hard on rings" ...many years ago I had a friend living up there and was told that the temps get down to -50F and he used automatic tranny oil in the crankcase...another story from my daughter when she phoned me was, she said: "how come the oil will not come out of the bottle" this was castrol synthetic oil...Goodluck

you are probably correct here because the part numbers on the "value line" filter where different to anything I was familiar with thru the "rockauto" web site, even though it was made in the States, I guess for the Canadian market...makes me wonder what other items may have been compromised, for example the air filter(for another topic)

..I had this funny feeling I was being shafted

Just maybe Fram is not all that bad..only kidding...anyway I forgot to re-order some oil filters from rock auto, the Nippon ####060 style for my '01 OB (the exterior of the filter is Identical to Mobile1 ExP at a quarter of the cost) and I certainly wasn't going to use a Fram, ...so I say to myself, "I need a Quality filter" and head down to the dealer and was surprised to see that the "fit and finish" of the filter was rather rough looking...then I headed down to Walmart and bought the corressponding filter only to be once more surprised...that these two filters were identical,(except the exterior color of course) even down to the same machineing marks...I then decided to cut them up and there was no difference between the two filters and I mean everything was identical on the inside...I forgot to say that these filters are for Canadian cars and maybe in the States the filters are of a much better quality from the dealer ...maybe these oil filters don't have to be that good here since we have only one type of maintenance schedule which resembles the severe service of the US

Thanks for the link..I have been there a couple of times and enjoyed hereing about some elses experience

Subaru has never been imported into Mexico...you may see the odd one, most likely cars from the '80's that for what ever reason never made it back with the original owner..if you go there make sure that you have on hand a dependable parts source that can be reached thru the Phone (internet would be secondary) and who would be willing to ship immediately to an address that is different from your billing address