Petersubaru

I will let you know, maybe in the next couple of days, hopefully it will not be to cold outside

Genuine Nippon from rockauto.com $2.45ea..outside looks identical to the mobile 1, including the metal stop ring for proper tightening(for those that need that)

That is exactly what I thought...but the pump will only run and the car starts up when directly hooked to the battery which has more voltage

I have a bit of wandering in my 86 with original ball joints and 265K miles ... the aligment guy said that all the ball joints are in good condition and do not need to be replaced...although there is some "side to side" movement of the shaft that comes out of the rack...the constant in and out movement has caused the bushing around the shaft to be worn out...I will have to replace the rack before ordering new tires..or stay with scrapeyard specials

..I know it is not the "plug" because I went inside the car under the carpet to test the wire leading to the pump...had the same low voltage

my '86 loyale Carb fuel pump has only 12 volts going to it (not enough to run it) while the battery has about 13volts or more...the pump works OK when hot wired,but my haynes manual does not provide enough info ...does the pump run directly off the coil or starter switch or ???

Sorry, I forgot to mention that the original question was for a 2.5L motor

my son-law is looking at a '04 Outback with 40k mi on it and was wondering if the headgasket issues were somewhat resolved...being familiar only with the '01, I was unable to answer him ...I think the problem was corrected for the '05 or '06

Thanks guys..

I am asking on behalf of someone else who is to embarressed of what he did...but what will happen to the car when the battery (with some forceing) is hooked up the opposite way ... now after correctly hooking up the battery, the the car will not start, but only will turn over,over...will it damage the ecu

your description above for the subarus(6cyl) also applies for many chrysler cars having the same oil lubricated timing belt tensioners..strict and often oil changes are needed to maintain those pulleys

I was just going to start with this method..I need to have just a little more, an inch or two will do it

my Haynes manual just says to remove the pins for the rear axles to drop down on my '86 4wd loyale wagen..I am having a problem with this method in trying to remove them and I was wondering if something further in the suspension needs to be unbolted to make this work

just wondering if someone has already replaced the rear differential bearing on an '86 loyale and what may be involved...for ex: if I pull the side cover off, will the bearing come with it ??

I hear or at least I think the noise is coming from within the rear end gear housing ...in gear or in neutral when coasting the noise is the same...a flopping sound..I have heard this sound before in more extremly driven cars... the '86 loyale has only 250K miles mostly highway driven, with the rear end oil changed regularly,... it seems a bit early for problems in this area....when slightly turning the drive shaft in either direction, I notice that the CV axles on both sides of the "pumpkin" seem to go more up or down first before beginning to rotate...would this be normal because of the short splined stubs coming out of the "pumpkin" with a sloppy fit for the cv axle to fit on...or just maybe, is it the bearings within that are showing signs of excessive wear??

the 1986 turbo (canadian) automatic with original manual says 89, but for my driving style I use 87...timed to 25 deg btdc..no pinging unless I "floor it"

I was made aware of this on my first oil change...the exact same amount of oil was added too what was drained out and it showed "low" on the stick, while before the oil change it registered "full".. I guess the best way to handle this situation is to add the amount of oil that subaru requires and just leave it be until the next oil change and when checking the dip stick and seeing oil between the marks, also leave it alone..just trying to make it easier for the wife without her worrying to much

the oil is always checked cold,

that is exactly what I am doing

on my '01 outback I thought it would be simple for my wife to check the oil level when looking at the dip stick, but even I am confused...The oil is checked Cold with the car parked in the Same spot on the driveway..at times the dip stick shows that 1/2 qt could be Added and other times when checking the oil, it is completely full...I have tried like this morning to add 1/2 qt..drove the car around the block and when re-checking the dip stick, it showed that I have added Well beyond 1qt of oil...the oil level orginally was between the 2 dots and now it sits well above the the notch on the stick

wouldn't you also have to change out the turbo fuel injectors to non/turbo F/injectors..much like the difference between the N/A MPFI and turbo MPFI

Is there a danger of injury or worse from sitting too close to the steering wheel when the bag goes off...I have asked a lot of people, some with long arms and others with very short arms and nobody seems to have a clear answer on what is a safe distance ...some people drive around around looking like they are ready to kiss the wheel

I am running 185/80/13 on my stock 4wdr loyale, even when loaded down there is plenty of room...10-15 tire companies that provide these tires thru ... http://www.tires-easy.com and cheap

would useing ceramic pads cause this same problem

I thought 3M along with a good installer plus lifetime warranty was the only way to go