Petersubaru

I am not familiar with the abreviation...also the car has only 42,000 miles on it

...would the CEL eventually come to indicate this possible problem

every Once in a while I will have to turn the ign. key twice before the car will start...the first turn of the key will start the engine only momentarily and then dies out..no problem with the second turn of the key, it starts but with a slight increase in rpm then what is normal when there is no perceived problem...I believe this only happens when the car is started first time in the day(cold or hot weather makes no difference)...also there is no CEL that comes on...2001 auto outback auto

Thankyou for the offer, but I will decline ... Hillsdale is about 170mi away from where I live...

I have a couple of the white spoked wheels that need a little staightening out before putting new tires on them and I have been told at least around my area that steel wheel repairs are not done anymore...would anybody know of a place that possibiliy does this kind of work

A potential "sleeper" no doubt

I would believe that it would be much easier to purchase an ECU from someone here on the board..maybe $15-25 plus shipping..at least this is what I paid for mine which I keep in the trunk as a spare...I think rockauto.com had them remanufactured for about $100

...I orginally asked the question hopeing that the roof slider could be transfered to another car...it seems very complicated now

Concerning an 86 turbo ea82 4 door sedan/auto...Would anyone know how and the where the water drains too, when it gets past the seals of the stock sliding roof window...down the middle door post or out the rear somewhere??

...yes, 8.75 yrs...the car now will start to put more miles on it..the original owner hardly ever drove the car and the car did have issues because of it not being driven enough(sat around for 1.5yr)... the problems are resolved now

It got me thinking when reading about the required oil change for the turboed 2008 subi...for ex. the newest tech bull. states that the oil needs to be changed at 3750mi or 3.75 months (why not 4 months, or maybe 5 or 6 months)...another example would be the timing belt exchange, which I certainly don't understand..for ex...105,000mi or 105 months...I am not sure that my wifes car will have even 70,000mi on it when the 105 month interval comes around...does it really mean that if the timing belt is not changed at that time or shortly there after I am putting the car in danger or risking a broken timing belt...I have asked this question at the subi dealer in my town, but the mechanic here said that his personal opinion might come back to haunt him ...the safe course is to stay with subarus recommendations

Thankyou both for the info..now I am encouraged to go out and strip it...it is a Canadian car so there will be no issues with the seat belts..I was looking at these FI components as spares for my 86 conversion, which would give me now the ability to travel anywhere with the car...I hate being at the mercy of other people when something goes wrong with the car, especially when the part is very hard to replace(find)

I have an opportunity to buy a complete FI system(very rare around here)...but the car has been sitting out in the open environment without a Hood for the last year...would the sensors still be able to work even though they have been covered in snow for months and spring rains

For STP products the "Blue" bottle has some zinc and phos in it along with a thickening agent...the "Red" bottle has more of the two chemicals without the thickening agent..

I am not promoting mobile products, but the capabilities of this oil (0/40) provide more shearing abilities then the 20/50...there is a catch though...not made for stronger valve springs on some cars...designed more for the low emmission cars...the only oil porsche recommends for there new cars (the newer cars have weaker valve springs then of the cars of yester year....

...It would probably would not hurt to use the 0/40, but the mobile 1 web site recommends 5/30 for your car...anything more would be over kill...0/40 has its applications, but not for the subaru..as above,.. "over kill"

...More and more cars are coming with sealed units and lifetime tranny fluid (100,000mi)..One service rep told me if you plan on keeping the car for many years, then change out the fluid little sooner (60,000mi)..I wonder what happens to "this" fluid when for example somebody does a lot of trailer pulling in the hot weather..I would think that these newer products have been extensivly tested...I don't why, but for some strange reason,I still feel like a "guinea pig" in all this

one over looked item is to check that the dip stick has a good seal on it when pushed into the tube..I had a few vacuum leaks and repaired them, but the dip stick leak baffled me for months..after a good cleaning everywhere with the crc all worked well..concerning your coil...you can read the recent posting just before yours called, "coil problems...what is going on"

Bought at Napa ( lubeguard.com....then click on automotive)..make sure that the hose clamps from the resouvier going to the pump are tight,,,I had to replace the clamps on my car..I hope it works for you...

Not being a body man I would grab this car in a heart beat..I replaced the same parts on my 86 about 12yrs ago..my insurance company paid to have the metal aligned and the front cross member (where the headlights fasten onto) welded up...after that it was simply putting it back together..a little twicking here an there with patience..then paint

For those that are interested to know..several months ago I was seeking a solution to the whinning of the PS pump when first starting the car ('01 Outback 45Kmi).. ..also another problem (shuddering or vibration of the steering wheel) would "sometimes" make itself known when wanting to turn "left" after idleing at the corner waiting for the light to turn green (never happened when turning "right" for example from a stop sign)...now after trying all of the "good suggestions" received here like, flushing the fluid, new hose clamps to prevent air from leaking in the system, etc and short of replacing the pump, I was hopeing "time" would solve the problem also, but no it did not...spending $6 on the Lubguard PS additive so far has worked wonders after driving around town for the last 150mi with No indication of any problem..maybe I am just plain lucky or this product has helped for the time being??... never the less, it would have been nice to know what the actual problem was with that PS unit

87 was FI and there is No mixing between the spfi and mpfi....

Have you checked your spark plugs...I have no experience with the seafoam products so I don't know how well it actually cleans...I use the strongest solution of the stp products (the more expensive 12 oz. super concentrated FI cleaner..two bottles of the stuff) and after each cleaning I have to change the plugs because they are now pitch black from the piston tops being cleaned etc...I also "crack" open (a very small amount) the exhaust flange, (where the "Y" meets together)..you would be surprised how black that sh*t drips out of the flange ...done this way, hopefully trying to avoid any harm to the cat and the front 02 sensor by installing another 02 sensor taken from another car that did not function properly ...

Thanks, but I just found the article in the endwrech archives...

When comparing, at least in size to my ea82 oil filter, the newer subarus have oil filters that are 1/3 smaller...I have seen many auto manufactures go the same route with smaller filters regardless of the cylinders (4,6 or 8)...But Why??...are these newer smaller filters that much better?...Perhaps "my line" of thinking is not correct here, ..but if the filters were larger, couldn't the oil stay in longer