Petersubaru

you were lucky..my example ended up braking the bolt down into the engine case...a good idea just entered my head.. if you feel one bolt to be very stubborn ...then grind the head down and remove it by your method.....

recently I was shown a receipt by a subaru owner who had to have an intake gasket replaced and the cost alone for 1 bolt removal was over $500.. this was because the "head" of the bolt broke off which resulted in many hours of extra labor...is there some preparation one can do before hand when taking out these 20plus yr old bolts?? ..I have removed a few of them myself over the yrs and they can be very stubborn

unfortunately many aftermarket parts are not produced the same as the original manuf...that is one way the car manuf. keep you coming back...

Nipper..That is fine if you do not want to buy a car with 10,000 mi oil change intervals..but can you explain why for example Honda with their "so called" computer oil monitoring system would have no problem doing oil changes to their new vehicles even at 12,000mi or slightly more on the oil as long as that computer says the oil is still good, who are we to argue..keep in mind that this is highway miles from Detroit to El Paso several times around...and they still use the conventional oil and this is a true example There is no such thing as too often an oil change as far as the health of the engine is concerned. There is such a thing as too long an interval. But i look at it this way. If somone wants to run Synthetic and do only one oil/filter change every 10,000 miles, thats fine, I just wont buy a car from them. If the car starts burning oil, its their money, not mine. nipper

On Castrols web site they still promote the 3000mi oil change (shame on them) regardless if conventional. or syn. oil is used...while the Valvoline site seems to be more honest and only recommend a conventional oil for my 01 Outback and also that I stay with the manufactures oil change intervals..synthetic was not recommended by valvoline because I don't live in the extreme cold or hot climates and I don't pull a trailer...conventional oils have worked fine for both my mid 80's subarus and still my 86 turbo will pass the emissions test with no problem..all this with only 4-5000 mi oil changes on a motor with 206,000mi and still going strong...

maybe I am not talking apples and oranges here, but 3000 mi oil changes sound very out dated for gas motors, especially when comparing the Diesel freighliner/dodge vans which require an oil change at 10,000 mi regardless of the type of driving, but then again they are useing synthetic 0/40 or 5/40 with a canister type oil filter.....I had an oil analysis done for all my vehicles.. at least a couple times around and found that I could easily extend my drain intervals two times longer and even more then that on my 86 turbo diesel...generally speaking, for off the shelf oil filters,... improvements to this item have lagged far behind...if I had a canister type filter(5-10 micron removal) from VW attached to my 86 diesel and useing synthetic oil would extend the drain interval even further...

rust prevention does save your vehicle..my 86 wagon driven every year thru salty winters still almost looks new on the inside sheet metal panels..I have drilled a few larger holes in various places, for ex: the bottom of the sills and a hole on the upper part of the door to get to the inside door handles and rear wagon hatch door...I personally do not like to cover up the metal , for example with grease, so that, if rust does start somewhere I can see it...after each winter I spray water everywhere, inside the door panels /sills ..removing the cardboard panels in the rear and shooting water up inside the rear fenders with a garden hose ( I have drilled some extra "1/16 drain holes") ... spray water in behind the front frame just behind the bumper ..up underneath..anywhere water will go..with a power wash it will remove any weak undercoating to expose the rust..let it dry out for a few days..then useing a garden pressure tank with kerosine and a little chain saw oil I spray inside the panels and underneath especially the very difficult areas where the frame bolts onto the body (you need to get into those boxed--in spots to clean and prevent) ... for the areas that one visibly sees like around the motor/hood & door seams and window moldings, I use wd40 ...Before winter I spray the whole car down with the same mixture(once) ... even the "outside" especially around the moldings and rear wheel wells a couple of times in the winter ...and yes, it does look messy..no real problem cleaning up in the Spring time useing homedepots "zep" degeaser...before even attempting to do this or any method you choose, power wash under the car with a degeaser to expose any rust and after the water dries, either spray or brush(better) permatex item #81775..2 coats..it will last for years ( at least with this product you can see if rust developes again) ..check for cracked undercoating in the rear wheel well and remove with a scraper any loose stuff and cover up the rust with the permatex product especially around the outside fender lip..also, I never "car wash" the car in the winter..the extra moisture only promotes rust delvelopment...good luck

would anyone know what type of brake pads originally came from the factory for my 86 ea turbo...organic(non-metallic) or metallic

On my 86 turbo I would like to replace the oil pan gasket.. all the bolts are easy to get too except the rear 4 bolts..I have tried useing a screw driver and 1/4" ratchet, but, I just can't get the angle correct to reach the bolts because of the tight fit and the cross member being wider then on my carbed model..does one have to make the holes larger on the frame access holes to be able to bend the 1/4"extension in there??..or is there a special tool for this job

Sorry, I couldn't answer your question sooner,..I just returned from a 700 mile trip, the carb gave me 30mpUSg at 60 ..all is working good, but like any subaru carb, needs to be warmed up well in the winter to work properly...the "dashpot" is located beside the carb "stop/idle" screw and it helps to maintain the "idle" at a constant speed..some carbs work well without it..some don't..I really Don't know why...if yours comes with a "air/fuel" mixture screw,... my advice is not to mess with it since the carb has been flow tested and if the technician was doing his job, it should be already set correctly..running the hot air hose to the carb intake probably wouldn't hurt either and would help a little to over come the "cold driveability" , provided the "hot air" thermostate is working properly..Good luck

A good point..that never occurred to me since the manifold gaskets were changed by the previous owner about 4 yrs ago..this would be the right length of time to leak if the cheaper quality gaskets were used..

I just remembered maybe 10 yrs ago, the service manager saying the same thing "external leaking gasket"..but they did show the water dripping from the corner..easier to see on a N/A GD I have never seen an EA82 head gasket leak externally.

what do you think..if I tightened ever so slightly the head bolt closet to the possible leak..would it make the situation possibly worse ??

Not only a good deal.. also amazingly is when I first called them up, they said that they had no remanufactured carbs avaliable , but only 3 cores waiting ..they said call back tomorrow and one should be ready for you..and it certainly was...

I will look more closely at that pipe going into the head..if there are no leaks coming from the pipe, then I can only assume the leak is coming from the corner of the head...

2 months ago I purchased a carb from Nationalcarburetors.com. the price was cheaper then there web price of $189 and included free shipping and there core charge was waived?...I am happy and it is garanteed to work if you set it up like they tell you..this carb looked brand new if every repect and i got to keep my old one. there is a possiblity that a dashpot will be needed (at least for me)..if your motor is still in good shape with near new compression this carb should work very well..if the motor is somewhat tired, a Carb that is remanuf. to new specs could make tuning somewhat difficult..It really depends on what you expect and of course the FI conversion is a better way to go and less then $500

in my town is a guy running around with an ea81/ported heads( he told me that it took many hours to do this properly) ..homemade intake and useing a much larger 2 barrel carb from gm..an old carter from a pontiac I believe..

On my 86 turbo, the passenger side shows drops of coolant hanging from the motor mount...I have exchanged and re-checked the coolant pipe under the turbo and it is dry and clean, also any pipes and rubber hoses on top of the manifold appear to be dry... IS IT possible that the coolant could be leaking from the corner of the head just above the passenger motor mount..I can not see up in there because of the motor mount and cross member being in the way..topping up the coolant is about 1 cup every 120 miles..just maybe the subaru blue bottle stop leak could work here

"Blue" is perfect...

I can't answer your question of "why" I would like to know concerning the ATF without going into a long story.....But I do have a few words concerning Penzoil and what you saw..if that is what the dealer was putting in the customers cars, I can only hope that the people gave the OK to use this product and are informed..it is a good "short term" oil, but then again it could open up to many potential legal problems etc..for example Toyota,..thousands and thousands if not hundreds of thousands of their cars developed motor oil sludge.. many of the motors had to be exchanged including a friend of mine after I had told him about the potential sludge problem ...and many other owners had the warranties extended to the original owners..this happened in a smaller way with VW,GM, Chrysler.. the cheaper oils like penzoil and quaker state played a part in this problem because so many people were useing the "quik lube" places and also the dealerships offered the lower grade oils to the customer to be more competitively priced..in a nut-shell the cheaper brand oils only served to hasten in the "Extreme Service Recommendations" before their expected time (as we know, most of us exceed these limits which in turn only worsens the impeding problem) ...as far I understand and generally speaking..if your car was serviced at a quik- lube and had receipts to prove this..you were covered under the Toyota Warr. .. but if the car was serviced at the dealership and if the dealership put in a "non- sanctioned" oil with your Permission ..your problem was now to be worked out with the dealer....Oh how the lawsuits escalated into the millions of car owners . ..buyer beware..

No they are not sealed, same dip stick and external filter which needs to be changed at the same time as the tranny fluid

the dealer in my town is rather small and new (One mechanic) also, they don' t have a bottle of the syn ATF on hand nor any other literature concerning it..the changes are all to new for them and probably will not have any atf for some time, since the 2007 subi's call for 100,000mi/160,000kil. fluid changes

manufacture on the back of the bottle..that would be interesting to know if they give away any info for free..Thanks

would anybody know who is the manufacture for the synthetic fluid ATF that now comes factory filled in all 2007 subaru's

my coil is leaking, so I to will have to do something about it..but, by putting in a larger coil..would it not cause the ignitor to work harder thus pre-maturely causeing the ignitor to wear out...are the resistence levels of the VW coils close to the stock subaru