Petersubaru

I need to replace the starter on my 86 turbo automatic..will I run into problems if I install a starter from a manual car

I am useing 185/80/13 on my '86 4x4 with plenty of clearance to spare...

My door post says 30 front and 29 rear

KYB is the manufactureing company who makes struts/shocks for various OE companies according to,.. for example: subarus engineering specs....KYB's own line of strut/shocks have slightly different specs, and as I said earlier, usually will have a stiffer ride...

I tend to agree with you, maybe I need to adjust to the slightly harder ride (35psi) and measure/monitor the thread depth...I am running on the michelin hydroedge tires, 44psi is max for them..

What would you recommend to have more then just a code reader...

I wish I also could go 4psi over , but with the lower profile tires (60 series) that come with the newer subarus make for a rough ride, certainly not like having the 70 series of yester year

Generally speaking most aftermarket shocks from poorer quality "white box" to one of the best "bilstein or KYBs" will not give the same ride feel as the OE ones will, also when the weather gets cold, some aftermarket ones will ride stiffer until "warmed up" ... even though KYB is the manufacturer for many OE companies..the OE companies have there own specs ...if buying under the KYB name, although being an excellent and long life shock, they slightly tend to be more generic for mass production reasons, which in most cases again will give you a harder ride feel thus more noise in the cabin...check your tire pressure according the label on the door post..I was surprised to find a huge difference with my outback by decreaseing the air pressure by 3psi (from 32 to 29psi)..

all the more reason to keep checking my battery/alternator especially now that the colder weather is here...also I will have to find out how to check the alternator charge light for proper operation...

The original question never implied that the gauge was never to be looked at or even to be done away with in place of an idiot light , but simply how to make the subaru set- up better as useing VW's example of: Dial Gauge/Flashing idot light/Buzzer/Low coolant/ Hot coolant warning system all wrapped up into one.. .. I would be the first to agree that if people can not check the gauges, they should not be driving, but in the real world they do drive...simply put, "how to improve on a weakness" as perceived by me and perhaps others...

Nipper..I stand by my orginal question seeking a non-condesending answer and if you can not provide one without insulting ones common senses, then please do bow out, no matter how naively the question my have appeared to you...

Coolant changes and OE thermostat's still give poor odds...Let me fill you in on the my past of why I asked the question in the first place,..I have had on two separate occasions the heads (subarus) being cooked from other family members driving (not everyone has been taught to scan the dash, although, I don't know what this has to do with being a good driver)...and yes, I do know about the Thing (gauge) on the dash, ...but, after driving more then a million miles in the last 20yrs, I have had my share of broken thermostat's, new car or old car, OE or Napa, all thermostat's eventually give out and sometimes right out of the box... Now, if I understand you correctly, from your answer, just because the rpm gauge is also on the dash , should I be keeping my eye on it??...when the speed is set on cruise should I be looking constantly at the speedometer??...and the same goes for the temp gauge??....Obviously from your answer, I would take it to say that subaru has not updated to anything better and remains antiqueted (still stuck in carburetor land) in this regard...it shouldn't be to much of a problem to improve on this ...

I have driven far more miles with VW cars then with subarus and have always felt more comfortable with the COOLANT warning system that the VW products provide, which consist of a temp gauge along with a flashing idiot light warning me either of a "over heating" or "low on coolant" situation...concerning my newer subaru..what happens if the thermostat mal-functions and the motor starts to over heat, possibly cooking the heads..is there a warning system in place that would say for example:"CEL" long before any damage takes place...this is question more related to my wife's driving habits of never looking at the instrument panel..she cooked the heads on my older EA82 because of a faulty thermostat many years ago

I will certainly record all this practical info for the next time I have to deal with the cooling system.. Thanks again

I have just changed my tranny oil so I will have to wait until next winter to see if the experiment with Synthetic oil works..Mobile 1's web site state their oil will flow better while at the same time provide the neccessary friction needed for an auto tranny...I will make note of your request for next year...

I have just added that idea into the procedure to be on the safe side ..I believe I have now been successful in correcting this minor problem..I have been driving around town, then letting it cool, then bringing the car up to operating temp once again,..not even once could I hear the gergeling plus plenty of heat now...

Setright..I have just tried as you recommended with no success...I did set the car on an incline and only a few bubbles came out when squeezing the heater hoses a couple of times...very shortly after that it started to over flow , there was also no change to the over flow situation even when reving up the motor and of course at this point the car had to be turned off...I am waiting for a cool down before adding anything at this point with the car still elevated

I have a older VW van and the process of filling is also very time consuming...

Morning has arrived and I will get immediately to it..

The little problems seem to still persist for my 2001 Outback..when leaving the corner the "gergeling" sound does not want to disappear ...I had assurances from the subi mechanic this morning that all was taken care of..only cool air from the heater at the moment..I will try the search to see what has been said in the past..any info would be appreciated

is it normal for the 2001 outback to be slow in up-shifting when the weather is cold...once it is warm there is no problem...the subi mechanic said it was normal (a common answer these days ) for the tranny to behave this way...when driving slowly the rpm gauge reads 2700 before shifting into 3rd...this dealer also sells the synthetic tranny oil, with no guarantee it will change anything...

Thanks guys, I have keep my 86 / 210,000mi working with the drain and fill method with no problems...the fluid still stays very red for a long time ...it shifts with no problem in both cold and hot weather

yes this is in reference to my 01 outback..the tranny plug is not magnetic so the filter needs to be also changed from time to time...

My car, just recently purchased with 45,000mi on it...I did the tranny flush myself useing about 12 qts to do it...the fluid is cheery red and I think very clean...I questioned the subaru mechanic about this procedure and he said that the pan has to be dropped, he could only say that this is part of the procedure...is there something that they do to the tranny that I am not aware of besides also changing out the tranny filter..apparently the drain nut is only there to make it less messy when taking off the pan

advance auto parts have dissys for the subarus