Petersubaru

Well, I know for a "fact" that Bosch "does" sell different qualities falling out of the Same box.. depending on where you buy it..But this pertains only for example from my experience to distributors or points replacements, starters, coils, etc for my '74 VW van or 86 vanagon or cam/crank seals, etc..something you can see....However, I doubt if anyone can say for sure if this same logic can be applied for example to the Subi/OEM(bosch) being better then the Aftermarket(bosch) for the modern car....on my '01 OB (Auto) the Subi/Bosch O2 sensor didn't last even 40K mi. while at the moment my Aftermarket/Bosch has surpassed the same amount of miles without incident and about 4 times cheaper then the dealers price...on the rear.. the O2 sensor is made by "denso"..are we going to question them also???...let the suspicions continue...

if you haven't seen it..maybe www.prosportgauges.com would work...click on "accessories" and look for oil filter "adapter plate" for the oil temp etc..also they have some solutions for water temp

My Haynes is very limited for my '86 ea82 Hitachi carb non-feedback..I believe that the "rev sensor/fuel pump control box" functions somewhat as a relay for the fuel pump..But is there another "separate" relay located somewhere else for the fuel pump..Thanks

Does the subaru ECU record and keep track of mileage even if changes have been done to the speedo cluster...I am looking to add another subaru to the family (daugther) ..I have not seen or talked to the owner yet of this '02 Outback 2.5L, but in the ad description he mentions that the speedo cluster has been exchanged and that there are some records of this somewhere..(he makes no mention if the dealer or himself or even the previous owner did this job or even why??) I thought most modern cars keep track of mileage within the ECU

several yrs ago I used a fram filter on another car (diesel) and drove for a very long time in unusually rainy and very damp weather conditions (about 2 wks)...only to find out that the fram paper had become "hardened or brittle" when comparing it to a new/unused one which resulted in not allowing enough air to flow thru it, even if it appeared to be near new and very clean...apon changing the air filter, the fuel consumption dropped dramaticly.. (very easy to be aware of this when driving a diesel)

many years ago I lost all my oil when driving on a 2 lane road along the eastern coast..the lever picked up some heavy fishing net..fortunately I caught it in time

I thought about that because I have one on my older car...might even come in handy when having one on the Auto tranny

I drained the new oil completely out into a very clean pan to be reused ..I had too, because I wanted to put a new washer on the nut...almost 5 liters came out, so it was over filled, but not to a great amount..

It was one of those very cold days and so I decided to have the oil changed at the dealer... (first time in 20 yrs)..only to find out from looking at the work sheet that 5L (5.3 US qt) was added instead of 4L (4.2qt) as specified in my Outback manual ...and I guess the newer smaller filter might make matters "look" worse by pushing the oil further up the dip stick... apon re-checking the car when cold, the oil is still up 1/2"+ past the "notch" on the dip stick ...I have heard from other peoples experiences that one person had to replace a piston while another person had all the spark plug electrodes covered in oil and would not start

...I certainly can't answer your question...but if you "google" Crucial raceing and click on products, then again on "coolsafe" ..there is a write-up that got me thinking ...I know with the old carbed suby I have a 180deg "T" (stock 192deg) and some colder plugs will keep the pinging at bay and possibly less expansion between the head and block..just maybe the headgasket will last longer (just some laymans thoughts here)

..I agree..it does not matter if you are looking at Subaru or VW or GM..the OE T-stats are always more heavy duty etc...

My thinking is somewhat along the same lines as to what you have said..somewhere they have said that their Thermostat opens above the temp the ECU switches out of the warm-up mode, but most of their users are turboed motors..and my thermostat for the 01 outback reads 172deg which I think is fully opened

does anybody have any opinions on useing their 160deg.(stock 170deg) thermostat for the stock N/A 2.5L....I can appreciate the "fail-safe" operation of the unit and haveing a cooler running motor in the hot summer days..but in a colder climate (10below) would I get enough heat into the cabin

Thanks for pointing that out...I must have been sniffing my own "brain farts"..anyway, the info I gave was for my '01 Outback (2001 and up/all subaru models/Insiders report)..I did not first notice from the original question that it was for a Legacy GT (although that may be included there)

6 months ago I installed Akabono ProAct on the rear and their High Performance version on the fronts..good initial cold breaking in the morning.. no grinding sound..very smooth...no noise ever..quick brakeing response on the highway...at rockauto.com ..and don't forget to shave (file) down 1mm (slightly angled) from each pad length so they float more freely between the anti-rattle clips (subaru recommended procedure) ...and use synthetic silicone grease between the parts (backing plates, sliders etc)

105k mi or 105 months.. which ever comes first...you will be dependent on their "good will" (if any) should it break before

the problem was found to be the "fuel pump control box"...some of the perceived complications of my own testing for "ground" etc. was made more difficult because one of my testing wires was poor (broken) which would give at times a "no voltage" reading...

I ran 2 long wires from the battery to the pump..the ground was the battery terminal

..definitely to do when, hopefully it stops raining...One thing that I don't understand:..why does the pump Not run when attaching separate jumper wires directly from the battery...even the old one ran when I tested it this way

Finally, I believe to have found the problem..the new fuel pump with only about 3 hundred miles on it draws to much current and will only work when attaching a 2 amp battery charger directly to the pump...sounds like it is moaning and laboring hard...the car motor ran perfectly with charger attached to the fuel pump for a couple of minutes..then I tried to operate the pump directly from the battery within the same car, it wouldn't run...

this morning I pulled the "fuel pump control unit" box and was surprised to see it resembled a smaller version of a computer motherboard..anyway it was dry and clean looking inside...at this point (maybe wrong) I am taking the your position that the control box is still good...the positive side of the wire coming from the fuel pump is "green" with "2 small red strips" (86 loyale) and the only place that I found under the dash of a wire with the same color was going to the ignition switch... at the moment I am unable to check the voltage at the ground wire on the Ign switch to see if the votage is the same as the battery...on 2 different occassions I drove over some large pot holes and immediately the car was turned off...it would not re-start until the next morning when the morning is cold...so my theory at this point until tested would be that a new/used igniton switch would be needed

Thankyou for trying to help, but model is "carbed"

Another way to go would be to buy the "Holley fuel pressure Switch" Part # 12-810 thru for ex. Amazon.com ..$20...I have to further check and see if it fits on

Well Doug..I believe the best, easiest and safest way to deal with this problem is to find another relay box (or whatever they call this item which has many wires going into it)...for the time being I hooked the wire directly from the fuse box to the pump, until I can find what I need...this will not be easy since I drive the only carbed model for many, many, miles around

I have seen it happen on many subarus..the material is not as good as 20 yrs ago