Petersubaru

I have a spare coil and will give it a try tomorrow...talked to a GM mechanic friend of mine and he suggested that also for me to check the "voltage" going to the "throttle body", "coolant sensor" and the "air temp sensor"..must be at least "5" volts or something is wrong..ohm testing is only part of the story ..looked on rockauto for my model yr and they do have an "air temp sensor"..I never heard of such a thing...maybe someone knows where it is located

after driving on the highway for a short time and the car now being well warmed up, I do NOT have any more problems with the stop and go etc..but if it sits for half an hour, the sputtering starts up again until fully warmed up...then it runs perfect...I am going to check the "thermo time switch" even though it was replaced about a year ago..after that I have no more ideas

I did check the TB and all is fine ( I checked it 5 yrs ago and nothing has changed) and I also put in another fuel pump borrowed from a friend.. the lack of power apon start up and leaving the corner is still there..I got a feeling that I will have to put her to pasture because the FI parts for this particular model are expensive..200,000mi and still does not burn oil and even passed emissions 2yrs ago

a LOT of work for just one item to change..would involve splitting the case apart

Will do...

..I thought also that the problem could be something else then the fuel pump, but if that is the case being the throttle postion sensor, it would be very difficult to replace with a used one around here..I just noticed that "harborfreight" has a fuel injection tester for $12 and if the pump checks out to be OK, I just may have to retire the car until a part can be found

86 turbo with original fuel pump..when cold starting the car, it will hardly move at all, .. when driving down the street their seems to be no noticeable problem until the next stop light...then it will be slow to leave the corner and then all of a sudden it picks up to speed...I have changed out the fuel filter for a new one but no change

I can picture this to happen..your in a hurray to make a left hand and then suddenly the timing belt brakes while at the same time a transport truck is headed your way or your passenger...your crossing the train tracks,.. the belt brakes and now for some strange reason your seat belt does not want to release while a train is coming your way...both are true stories

..No real advice here, but I would say keep a "close" eye on the oil level...I was going to ask the same question on behalf of someone else..she has about the same mileage on her 2002 2.5L car but is useing far more oil then you... the car has been taken to the dealer several times and the mechanics are left scratching their heads..no noticable oil leaks anywhere...also try to establish for future reference a base line for oil consumption and if possible contact the previous (hopfully honest) owner..just maybe it has always from new condition consumed oil...

just make sure the speedo matches the year(s) and number of cylinders of your car..

Thankyou for pointing that out...it was a mistake on my part...the info given was for a hatchback...I guess I should read first...the demensions are close, but no cigar

...TWO row available..$112.. at Rockauto.com ...they also have the One row available for $75

when removing the valve covers on some subarus, ..it doesn't matter if it is an '86 or 2000, carbed or turbo, everything under the valve cover has a light to dark color which can not be removed..is this because the oil has stayed in to long or from over heating or just poor quality motor oil...I am asking this question because my own 3 subi cars have ( 2 that are high mileage drivers) "not" exhibited the color and remain very clean under the valve covers

it will work without it...but keep the "evap" ..it helps to maintain the proper pressure/vacuum in the tank...I cut mine off only to find out on some very hot day, miles into the "sonoron desert" , while driving down a very steep hill ..then suddenly, the car stopped running, ... blowing fuel out the top of the carb..

the lucas brand contains seal swelling additives ...more designed for leaking units which could be in your case..check for slight leaks at the hose clamps etc which might let in some air into the system which in turn might cause the pump to squeal

..Just curious here,(without having to remove the jets)... but would you know from the info provided as to what size the "primary and secondary idle jets" would be

Thanks guys

'86 carbed EA82 manual..when stepping on the brake pedal More then Once will cause the motor to shake momentarily ..I have installed new clamps on the vac hose going to the brake booster, but still no difference, and I have also sprayed carb cleaner around the other connections surrounding the carb..all seems to be tightly sealed

it is cheap ..$10..well worth giving it a try..also make sure that there are no small, very small slow moving leaks which could cause air to enter the system at the pump...for example the upper rubber hose with the spring clamps can be poor, even after several short years in use

Sorry, but I can't say for sure from experience..I have heard it Does Not

I wrote about it before..last year I got the additive from "lubguard.com"..(Napa) and for me it stopped the noise completely...I might get a little noise when the temp drops to minus 20C..

.. I have this particular topic in my "favorites list"...should any re-occurring problem persist, you will be the first to know..at the moment after several out of town trips, no problem and the temp gauge needle stays at exactly the 1/2 way mark and the fans re-cycle as they were designed too..I am betting on coincidence..

I appreciate your story ..a little off topic here ...It reminds me of coming back from Florida one very hot day and I had no problem with keeping the car cool, but I was amazed at how many newer cars, all American made were off to the side of the road because of over heating problems...the rads were manufactured to absolute minimum standards for cooling capabilities and apparently if, the maintenance was not kept up would over heat with no problem (as told to me by a well respected mechanic)..but I don't think this would be a problem with any well kept subaru

the cooling system has been dealer serviced until I had this problem ... I look at the failing thermos at the moment as just coincidental...in the late 80's I had a run of thermos needed for my VW

..to clarify... all OEM..1 yr ago original thermo with 40k mi started to run cold and was replaced(#1)...that replacment with 22k mi of driving was replaced again (#2) and it ran cold Out of the box(last week) and then again yesterday (#3) after coming from the dealer..hopefully #3 will work