Petersubaru

I think the best way to approach your problem would be to use the "search"...this topic has been covered for years and I think the general view here would be that once the carb goes bad,(if in fact that is your problem?) it is time to ditch it and install a weber or go FI

...Silicone Brake lub from Napa..defining "seized up" would mean that the caliper pin can not freely move " in and out" without the use of plyers

has anybody conclusive information as to why the front bottom caliper pin has a rubber end attached to it...even after re-greasing them, all is moving freely and smoothly, but shortly after, these particular pins get seized up again in a few days of brakeing...the other pins are OK...why is it the aftermarket sells the subaru slider pins without the "rubber" ends

...which would be identical too the white subi filter for the 2.5

Thanks for sharing that..my friends subi who has the oil change done at the dealer has had now, twice in a row leaking oil filters, .. 99% of the time I do my own oil change, except for the last one..looked underneath and I too have a drip of oil hanging at the bottom of the filter base

...current technology has not changed all that much when comparing regular filter media, ..the newer cars of today run much more efficient thus cleaner oil...the smaller, narrower design is possible because the center cavity of the filter is narrower (less volume inside) when comparing for example an older design from purolator or a ford filter ...my newer style "nippon" filters have more pleats then the current newer style subi filters...my last oil analysis at 6000miles states that the oil filter is doing its job for the oil used mostly highway miles (ford 5/20 semi-syn)..don't forget and almost equally as important is to make sure that your air filter is trapping the contaminates..OE subi air filter for me

would you know what kind of grease are on those sliders..maybe still from the factory??

it seems from this design to me, to be another high maintenance item..every year after winter the lower pin has to be re-lubed to slide freely (no rust on the pins )..the other day the pins had virtually no movement, difficult to remove, plyers were needed with great force...I am useing the permatex synthetic lub (green label) and maybe over time this product "stiffens or gels" up....most likely next time, I will go back to useing on the sliders a good quality "black cv axle grease"

I would also think that the purpose of the bottom slider is to help the pads back away from the rotor...when tuning up the brakes on my car that bottom slider had very little movement..but after re-greasing the slider it wanted to push it self under pressure out of the caliper

why is there a difference between the slider pins on the front calipers of my '01 OB..the top pins are just a solid metal shaft you would find on any caliper,..while the bottom pin has a "rubber or plastic" tip on the end of the shaft..the purpose of this would be..??

PM me if you are still interested in a compressor

..I don't think they actually automaticly changed over by sending both the same pulleys...but when looking at one of the subaru sellers on line, the upper and lower pulleys are the same when only applied to the 2004-2009 Turbo...which leads to me to ask...are the fastening bolts the same for each bearing, be it single or double row

it is no typo ..I called to check..might only be a couple left yo buy

60 miles

just wondering if anybody knows where one can purchase the manaul tranny shifter "bushings"..my wife does not like making "porridge" with every shift

the title says it all as of this morning...for those that don't know ..this axle will fit any EA82 EXCEPT a Turbo with M/T

[quote=Subarule....I was just wondering if you had a chance to hook-up that new carb off ebay and if any problems had to be overcome...with the cold weather here I had to adjust the "fast idle" up and also had to "close" the choke a bit from the manufactures setting..maybe 2 notches...backed the idle off to 750 rpm when warmed up.. and I have to say that it runs and idles better then what originally came with the car back in '86 (of course that is not saying very much)...I still need to fix (maybe) the hot air suction tube coming off the cat convertor for the carb to warm up quicker..the warm air would probably give more power during these colder days

those smaller filters will do the job, especially in the newer effiecent burning cars...if you look inside and compare for example a Subi filter to a Purolator, the subi filter is more tightly compacted...I have had the oil analysed on my 2001 at 5200miles, mostly highway miles at high speeds in very hot weather,...I was told "the oil was still good for much more since the TBN was only 4.3...1ppm chrome" (so a magnetic would serve no purpose here).."the oil and air filter are doing a very good job at keeping the dirt away"....I use either a mahle or nippon filter from rockauto and from walmart the Motorcraft semi-syn 5/20

will do..hopefully it will be warmer tomorrow

I went thru this same situation(at least it sounds like it)..I did get a subi thermo just to be on the safe side..raised the car in the front, filled with coolant and kept topping it up as needed...once full, start the car and bring it up to operating temp...when the coolant is cool enough to open the cap, I just kept on filling as needed..will take about 2 hrs....if you still have the same problem occuring, then your heater core is plugged and most likely will have to be replaced or cut off from the system...you can do this by joining the two metal heater pipes with a single rubber hose Or perhaps you can first of all join the two pipes before doing anything else, then add coolant ..if all works out fine, then you know where the problem ls located

there is voltage going "too" the "black box"...but for me, as to what makes this problem more difficult, is my inability to actually know what wire coming "out" of the "black box" is for the fuel pump, for example, the wire connected to the fuel pump is of a different color then "any" wire coming "out" of the "black box"...also, any wireing diagram I have seen is different in color as to what I have, just maybe because it is a Canadian subi....Perhaps, what I should do, is run a new wire connected to any 12V output from the black box to the fuel pump until the correct wire provides the safety features of that box...who knows, I may get lucky

I forgot to mention earlier that the fusible links were also exchanged..but thanks anyway...

Not completely sure here, but I don't think there is a separate stand alone fuel pump relay on this carbed model ...but rather one of the functions of the "black box" is to "relay" when needed, which has been exchanged...I will try to double confirm this...

'86 Carbed wagen..the fuel pump in order to make it work needs to have a wire directly taken from some other 12 volt source under the dash and the fuel pump is grounded directly to the body under the rear seat...Why is it that when testing for voltage, I get 12+Volts on the "original" fuel pump wire when "not" connected to the pump .. Then "when" it gets connected, the voltage drops to about 2-3V... the carb,coil,fuel pump, and the black box (fuel shut-off device) have all been exchanged, including even disconnecting the wires from the ignition switch and tried another one with no success...

..yes, I mean the receptacles...the seats were from a place in california...these leather seats were from the "LL Bean version" (power for both upper and lower part of the seat) as opposed to the "limited" version (power only for the lower portion of the seat)..I personally do not like useing the lever for any type of control ...95% new condition..$100 each