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my 338,000mi. legacy uses 1 qt. oil/1000mi. whoopee


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I think this is great-am I right? no other engine problems , ever. no noise, no leaks, just normal wear and tear belts, idlers etc. I use diesel Rotella in the summer and 5/30 in the winter. No way will I consider a 2.5 a replacement when I do get rid of this 93 2.2l. Am I lucky, or are all well maintained 2.2's this bulletproof? I have friends whose Neons are shot by 80,000mi.

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Go post this on the high mileage club -- http://www.subaruhighmileageclub.com/ he doesn't have many in the 300k section..

 

The 2.2s are perty bulletproof, I had a 91 with almost 200k on it, didnt' use much more oil than what yours does, althogh I ran 10w30.. I'd be careful with 5/30 in that engine, especially in the summer. I'd also be careful running Diesel oil, unless it has gas engine additives in it too, as Diesels require different additives.

Amsoil 20W50 synthetic seems to be a good choice, it works in gas and diesel motors. My former boss had a dodge ram, 94, with a cummins turbo diesel, it had like, 260,000 miles on it, and a lot of those were idling through a field towing an 8000 pound baler....

 

Also, the neons blow at 80,000 cuz they are C R A P

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I have a 93 Legacy Wagon which has 120k on the motor and over 200k on the body. I installed the engine with 70k miles back in Oct. 01 and have been running nothing but the Amsoil Synthetic 0W-30 and the car runs better than most newer subies. I dont know where you get your info from about not using a thinner oil in the summer. My engine speaks for itself. Ive owned 7 subarus from early models to late models, and have never had a problem with the Amsoil OW-30 synthetic. Besides, its good for 35k miles, but I change it twice a year. My car purrs like a kitten.

 

:D

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I think that oil usage is fine for that many miles. Pretty cool to see a 2.2l go that far. I wonder how far we will see an EJ25 go.

 

The Amsoil 0w-30 is a great oil, but very expensive. If you are changing it twice a year you could probably save quite a bit by using the 5w-30 in the winter and the 10w-30 in the summer. That's what I do. Change the oil nov 1st and may 1st. I really like to see at least a 10w-30 in these engines in the summer.

 

Everything I have read about the diesel oils suggests that they are fine to run, but combustion chamber deposits will be higher due to higher ash content.

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Isn't it kind of ironic some are giving advice about oil and such to a guy who has 338,000 miles on his engine? If it aint broke, don't fix it.

 

Dude, if you used butter and pancake syrup or whatever combination in your crankcase and got over 300,000 miles on an engine who am I to suggest you should try something else!

 

Keep on driving it and see how far it will go and then let us know.

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Is there a way to include a picture of my odometer in this post. The 15/40 diesel oil is great for the summer, when I drain it every 4000 miles, it comes out as thick as when it went in. Dino oil drains really a lot "thinner feeling" after 4000 miles. Other than belts, an alternator and just recently a starter, and plugs and belts, everthing on the engine is fine. Had some rare check engine lights appear at 10 below, now that the temp is in the 20-30 degree range, the light has not reappeared. Original struts, exhaust, no body rust (a few tiny surface spots I touched up), original O2 sensor and all other sensors. A couple of wheel bearings and cv boots. Sheesh, isn't this normal for a domestic by 50,000mi.? I will need a replacement soon and NO WAY IS A 2.5l SUBARU in my future. Either a used 2.2l wagon until they stopped making or another make .

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I find that good old 15w40 oils are quite good for all cars that I've used in the past. Even works in mild winters. It should burn less than thinner 10w30 and reduce blow-by in your well worn-in engine which now has greater clearances. I don't go thinner than 10w30 in the winter and my 95 subaru manual states that 5w30 is NOT kosher for any temps above the freezing point 0 celsius (32 F).

 

I assume that models newer by a few years probably haven't changed much as far as engine specs go, so the same recommendation against 5w's may hold true there too.

 

If I had to put a 5W for the winter I would probably get a 5w40 instead, and I would get rid of it as soon as winter is over. (Luckily I don't live near the arctic circle and I don't need 5w's) Not sure if you would have to spend the big $ for a synth or synth blend for this particular high viscosity index 5w-40 weight.

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The owners manual for our 99 states that 5w-30 is the preferred oil for temps under 40*C. It never gets that hot here. 10w-30 or 10w-40 can be used above -20*C. It also states that for towing or desert use 30, 40, 10w-50, 20w-40, or 20w-50 can be used.

 

5w oil is not just for the arctic folks. It seems to go below -10*F here every winter, and there are colder places in the continental US. I have heard the 10w is good to about 0*F. I know plenty of people that use 10w around here in the winter though.

 

My understanding of the high VI oils is that you need to spend some money to get one that doesn't shear out of grade in a short time. The Amsoil 0w-30 is an example of a great high VI oil, but at $8.35 a quart it better be. The synthetic 5w-30 Amsoil is more than sufficient for this area and costs $5.85 a quart.

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The 15W-40 Rotella is being referred to as "diesel oil" when it's actually a "mixed-fleet" oil. Same for Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300, Pennzoil Long-Life, etc. They're certified for both diesel and gas engines. Look closely at the jug, you'll see an SL approval.

 

It's unlikely that a better warm-weather dino oil can be found, especially for a well-worn sube that appreciates a mid-15cst. viscosity. Great detergency, high shear resistance, nice chunky 4.4 cps. HTHS rating. :burnout:

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