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Hi guys. Just picked up a '98 Forester with 90k on the clock today. It was more of an impulse buy because of the great shape it was in. This is my first Subaru and don't know much about them. It has the 2.5l motor and it's automatic.

 

It is throwing a code. It P0141--Bank 1 Sensor 2. I'm assuming its the O2 sensor, is there anything else I should be looking at?

 

The 2 rear tires are shot. My buddy has 2 tires that are in good shape and in the size I need. Will I be ok throwing them on there with the other brand of tires being AWD?

 

And anything else you guys want to stick in there as far as tips and tricks is appreciated.

 

Thanks

Adam

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The 2 rear tires are shot. My buddy has 2 tires that are in good shape and in the size I need. Will I be ok throwing them on there with the other brand of tires being AWD?

 

the AWD system needs the circumference of the tires to be within 1/4 inch of each other. so it would be best if you buy 4 tires. fronts not matching the rears will wear on the AWD unit , the trans, and other drive line parts and lead to "torque bind".

 

 

It is throwing a code. It P0141--Bank 1 Sensor 2. I'm assuming its the O2 sensor, is there anything else I should be looking at?

 

bank 1 sensor 2 is the rear, after the cats, o2 sensor. there have been a couple of posts recently regarding this thread. if you are interested search the code .

 

the rear o2 sensor can be a generic brand (the front needs to be a subaru part). but i would check the connectors first, that doesn't cost anything.

 

have you had code reset? has it come back?

 

read this:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=902299#post902299

 

 

 

welcome to the wonderful world of subaru and the usmb.

Edited by johnceggleston
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It is throwing a code. It P0141--Bank 1 Sensor 2. I'm assuming its the O2 sensor, is there anything else I should be looking at?

Adam

 

P0141 is for the O2 sensor heater circuit.

Make sure you have power on the heater element connections at the sensor.

If OK,it is safe to assume the sensor heating element is faulty.

Could check heating element w/an ohmmeter,but,it may read OK when cold.

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So, you're saying to remove the whole exhaust to swap the sensor out?

 

i wouldn't.

it's on the driver side of the exhaust pipe slightly to the rear of the back of the trans (auto).

 

you need a 7/8" (22)? mm closed end wrench. spray the sensor with some pb blaster before you start. most folks say to run the car to warm up the pipe, do not over do it or you may burn yourself.

 

disconnect the wire connector lead going the to sensor on or near the rear of the trans (auto). slip the wire through the closed end wrench and slide down on to the sensor hex . unscrew it. make sure to go in the correct direction, lefty loosey. remove the sensor.

 

i use hi-temp anti seize on mine, thread it in and tighten it. re-connect the wire. if your CEL is on when you start this you can disconnect the neg. battery cable first and when you finish reconnect it . your CEL should be gone.

 

good luck.

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Watch for signs of head gasket failure. Almost a sure bet with that engine.

 

GD

 

I wouldn't 'dispute' GD, but I also wouldn't say a sure bet. Keep the coolant clean and in date and never, never let a quick-lube joint near the car. When swapping out the coolant it must be done correctly you you surely WILL blow a head gasket. I DO know how, but always take our 2.5s to a dealer for oil and coolant changes.

 

At 90K be aware that you will be coming up on a timing belt change in a year or so, do NOT neglect it.

 

Enjoy.

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So, you're saying to remove the whole exhaust to swap the sensor out?

 

Yes - it's much easier to do the job right if you pull the section that has the sensor in it. As I said it's only a few extra minutes. This is a Subaru - not a Honda.

 

O2 sensors in general seem to enjoy getting seriously welded to the pipe. They are notorious for this. Penetrant spray is neccesary and sometimes it's best if you can loosen the sensor when the exhaust is hot.

 

As for the head gaskets - with a phase I EJ25 it's really only a matter of time. They had to redesign the gaskets because they just didn't hold. They can let go as early as 50k miles or as late as 200k but sadly they don't last for the life of the engine like earlier and later designs often do. Timing belt interval is 105k so you are comming up on that as noted above. When you do the belt I strongly sugest you replace the tensioner, idler and tensioner bearings, front seals, and water pump.

 

GD

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