swampbrat Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Wife's new car...88 gl10 turbo awd automatic RUST FREE california car! Sat for 7 years in a field. Cleaned up good. So far - new tires, cleaned tank and pump, changed out air ride for struts. Swapped radio for alpine mp3 player w/ ipod dock. Up next... pioneer 12" sub, boston components, logic 1200 amp, repaint top of car factory grey, install hood scoop. (Parts already in stock or ordered.) I also have a tranny gasket on order. It starts on the 1st turn and runs smooth but is kinda slow. I will be plumbing in a boost gauge this week to see how it is doing. Once the windows are tinted I plan on modding it a little - intercooler, k&n , bypass valve, manual boost. Have to keep it safely holding together ( under 10psi?) (we are at 4300' elevation.)..oh yes, it only has 121,000 miles - the newest subie I have ever owned! Any ideas or advice much appreciated. Our toyota was stored 7 years also and needed quite a few parts in the ignition system - I haven't even changed oil in subaru yet. Any items need to be addressed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Do the timing belts right away, and flush/change the coolant. You may want to consider a new radiator........ .................. .................. .................and don't boost it beyond 7 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Don't be surprised when your head gaskets go in a few months. Don't want to burst your bubble but the EA82T is by far one of the worst Subaru engines made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) "flush/change the coolant. You may want to consider a new radiator........" What he said. I've never had an NA EA rust up the cooling system. I've torn down two blown EA-82T's full of rust. The iron turbo and aluminum produce rust and for this engine, coolant should be changed, or a additive package added at 2ys. A two core rad and intercooler will get you what it should have been new. A stock engine with that many miles will not be long for this world if you overboost it. Do a compression test dry wet. If it's not up to factory spec, you'll blow it up. Doug Edit: Don't just check the coolant, replace it. For all EA-82 the factory maintence is 30 months or 30K miles. The iron and aluminum depletes the anti corrosion additive package. Warm up engine, if you can't do the below fast enough, use a block heater to keep it warm. Hook up remote starter switch. Pull all plugs. Prop open throttle valve. Crank engine and read gage when it's steady. 145psi. is the standard for a like new engine. 117psi. is the factory limit on the lower end. But with even stock boost, you'll have blow-by and oil control problems. If it's not in the 140psi range, you may blow it up with just stock boost if you beat on it. hth Doug Edited February 16, 2010 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampbrat Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Cool, add timing belts to the shopping list. I will check coolant this afternoon. I should add that I have a 92 wagon for parts with a spfi motor ( will search threads for interchangability info ) - It seems to be locked up from an overheat though.:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Cool, add timing belts to the shopping list. I will check coolant this afternoon. I should add that I have a 92 wagon for parts with a spfi motor ( will search threads for interchangability info ) - It seems to be locked up from an overheat though.:-\ if its locked, its just a boat anchor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Stock used engine, add some boost, after a short while: Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 change ALL the rubber hoses... or the car will leave you on the side of the road too. They tend to get brittle after all those years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Oh yea, the hoses. Correct me if I'm wrong. Subaru used EPDM for the material. Better than the average hose, and I found and bought DAYCO for some of the replacements, same EPDM where other aftermarket are not. Of course, you can't go wrong with OEM. Doug Edit: "Dayco® Molded Radiator and By-Pass Hose Designed to replace OEM hose Dayco Molded Radiator and By-Pass Hose with knitted reinforcement and all synthetic EPDM construction provides the high strength and resistance to oil, mud, salt, road debris, ozone, coolants, and temperature variations of -40°*** (-40°C) to +257°*** (+125°C) that are required for OEM hose replacements. The inner base tube is reinforced with knitted rayon for maximum strength and burst resistance for the life of the hose." Edited February 17, 2010 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD TURBO! Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 change ALL the rubber hoses... or the car will leave you on the side of the road too. They tend to get brittle after all those years. yep something you should do :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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