Yo'J Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 (edited) I'm a carpenter not a car brain surgeon! This has got me cunfuzzed as all hell. I cant for the life of me find a guage cluster diagram for my 87 brat or any ea81. It might help. I've got a haynes with a 82/83 whole car diagram, no pinouts or connectors, just wire colors. I got a chiltons with the 86 brat and hatch ecm diagram no pinout just colors too and thats it for the chiltons, nada. Battery isn't in the car yet so I don't go test it with my tongue. 90 Leg 22 is in, power steering is in, 5sp d/r is in, surge tank is in. Lots to finish up. Column is out, cluster is out. I got my harness cut down (like last year, I'd be farther along but work tied up my garage with a full load all summer, Thanks again Shawn W .) I got a few wires unmarked and nothing is taped up, just like it came out of the box, with out the SMJ. One wire question is, is it ok to run the ej fuel pump wire from the ej relay to the old fuel pump relay and keep those existing wires to power both pumps? Now where does the black wire from the ignition relay go? I lost the tag on it. Don't I keep the old starter wire? ok Ej power looks like this, help me out here...I'm guessing and without the right diagram. 1)constant, run and crank power - wire from ignition 2) pin11 b56 ground if ca model 3)pin 20 b48 ground if manual 4) tach - connect to fpcu - yellow wire 5)radiator 17 f47 using the stock radiator and wiring leaves no need to wire it? 6)temp ? cluster 7)oil ? cluster 8)cel - Gds spfi swap shows 1st pin on round connector is the ground and the bulb should be wire-able next to it 9)starter- 10 b56 should be wired to crank power 10)neutral 10 b58 to new switch mounted to top of clutch petal. Is this to ground after? 11)vss 11 B58 - reed switch on cluster pics according to GDs spfi swap yellow for the vss and black to ground 12)fuel pump - The Blue/red stripe wire in that (FPCU) connector goes out to the fuel pump......wire in you're power from the EJ pump relay to here. Easiest place to tap into that wire. Why is this so confusing to me? Oh, no cluster diagram! So I am praying to the Subaru gods for help! Edited February 28, 2010 by Yo'J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrettenmayer Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 If you want, I have a copy of the factory service manual in .pdf for a 90 legacy. You can figure out all the wiring from that pretty easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrettenmayer Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Also have a copy of the loyale instrument panel wiring diagrams if you want that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 Oh thanks but I just need the brat one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Josh I've got an 84 FSM that I can either scan some pages or get to you to check out, I think it should have what you need. It sounds like progress is happening. Abe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Reed switch is a connector pigtail coming out of the back of the cluster.....right out from behind the speedo head area. it has wires, Yellow and Black IIRC. I scavenged a matching connector from somewhere (ea82 door speeaker?) and wired the match to the black wire to a ground, and the Yellow wire to the VSS signal to the ECU. For the CEL.....I had to remove the cluster, and follow the trace on the board back to the connector. IIRC it ends up being a pin at the "edge" of the connector. Again, scavenge a pin from an EA82 dash harness.....and install it to corresponding pin in your dash connector. Wire it to the CEL light signal from the ECU For Tach signal, and Fuel pump leads.......easy way is to use the original FPCU connector (six wires, mounted by hoodlatch, 3 diamond logo) This is the box that controls the fuel pump. It is made to only send out power to the pump when it gets an ignition pulse (senses engine RPM) It get's the signal from the Yellow wire in this connector.....hook your EJ tach wire to this connector....it backfeeds the signal to your tachometer. The Blue/red stripe wire in that connector goes out to the fuel pump......wire in you're power from the EJ pump relay to here. Easiest place to tap into that wire. You can also use that connector for your IG. Switched 12v source, and for a place to tap into a ground wire as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 THANK YOU! I'm updating the bullets at the first post as I go along. Gloyale, I'm sure you have posted that a million times! I searched but couldn't find it again to save my life! For the oil and temp, I should just wire it in to the old wires in the engine bay? Capn'r, I didn't know ALLDATAs resources are available at the public library! That is wonderful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 For the oil and temp' date=' I should just wire it in to the old wires in the engine bay? [/quote'] Either in the engine bay..... or up under the dash. What I did was chop both those wires at the dash connector. I used some shielded wire (2 wire) from a Legacy ABS harness. Connected one wire to OP and one to Temp gauge and run them into the engine bay from there. Hook up the temp gauge wire directly to the gauge sender. OP wire can be hooked to the EJ idoit light sender.....but you'll basically have a reverse gauge (pegged when not running/no Oil pressure, zero when running w/pressure) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Oil sender: Ive done them with the ea sending unit, take it off the old engine take it to a shop that makes stainless steel brake lines and ask them to adapt the end to a fitting that will plumb into the spot where the dummy sender on the 2.2 is. Give it about 10 inches of line and lay it between the ps pump and the alternator and wire to that. I wish I had a picture of that still. The temp won't send enough reading. I think somebody here used a resistor to make it work. I just used an aftermarket temp gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 The temp won't send enough reading. I think somebody here used a resistor to make it work. 270 or 275 ohm resistor, 1/2 watt resistor wired in PARALLEL to the sender to ground corrects the gauge nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Update, work is driving me.....but I got this weekend free. I also got power steering fittings.:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 OK, no spark, I'll be testing the ignitor and coil, grounding circuit and everything else I can think of. Gotta get a good DMM. I want to say thank you so much Capn'R for spending your time helping me out. You got me on the right track for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 You are very welcome my friend. I would have rather it lit then but I'm convinced you are close. Be sure and give me a happy report when those loud noises come out of the bottom of your engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Did you rebuild the motor? At any point did you have the cam pulleys off? The cam pulleys are unique to each side. The drivers side cam has the marks for the cam angle sensor. If that sensor isn't reading the marks, it won't light. It took me 3 months of trial and error, and repeated rewiring to figure this out when I did my swap. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Well I'm not getting any spark and no variable signal at the ignitor while cranking. The signal should go from the ecu to the ignitor then send the signal to the coil to fire. I'm getting nothing at the coil, just power. The coil has a little more resistance than it specs out but only 2.4ohms compaired to new at .7ohms. Should I be worried about that? So It should be somewhere between the ecu failing and the igniter. All the grounds and ecu powers check so its gotta be there. I'm leaning towards the ecu but how do you check an igniter? I drove the car before I disassembled it, what could have failed while sitting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Just a thought, if the crank and/or cam angle sensors aren't working correctly, it will not spark. Check for broken wires at the connectors. I had to replace both the cam and crank angle sensor connectors because of a broken wire right at the connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 The coil has a little more resistance than it specs out but only 2.4ohms compaired to new at .7ohms. Should I be worried about that? Hmm.....I'm not quite sure of where or how you are measuirng the coil resistance. Coil resistance should be between .6 and .8 ohms (roughly) on the primary side (measured between opposite plug wire towers) Should be 10 to 16 K ohms for AT ............or 18 to 26 K ohms for MT......on the secondary side. (measured between the center wire of connector to each of the outer wires) But I doubt that is the problem. I am still thinking there is a wire not hooked up or something else simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 If my fingers weren't numb, I would go read the codes. Looking for a CAS code or a power wire connected to a "switched off while cranking switched power" wire. But its almost dark, and working in the drive, its time for a warm up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain brat Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 make sure you put 12v before diode and not after i think thats one thing i did wrong and then vroom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 Well something must be up. But I still don't know what. I tried to read the codes on the dash but couldn't. There doesn't seem to be any power on the cel wire (unless its grounded out in order to light, funny, I didn't test that, but I did make sure I could see the light through the face) It wouldn't light by ecu power. It did blink "in" the ecu, two long and two fast, in test mode, compared to normal which is three slow flashes. A knock sensor code? It would still start, right? I didn't have a O2 sensor plugged in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 O.K. I guess I don't know a thing and cant d-check till its running according to the chiltons. What are the blinking lights telling me! Hey Tex, I've got the early timing belt covers with the removable ends zip tied on, its a cost of 6 zip ties to check the cam pulleys. Which side is which? What is the discerning feature(s) between the two? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Drivers side cam has the cam sensor. On the back side of the cam pulley, it is supposed to have marks (bumps) around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 (edited) Doh! Edited March 11, 2010 by Yo'J I could've thought that through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 (edited) The california v.s.49state wouldn't stop starting? Somewhere on here someone showed a vin decoder listing that. It sure would be nice to find again. Off to work. pulleys are fine Edited March 12, 2010 by Yo'J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 So, I'm lost. Capn R has been helping me out greatly. I'd have no hair by now! We have tested the cam and crank sensors, ignitor and ecu on his running car. The coil we rechecked but havent swapped, yet. The t-belts were off and are now straight, I lined up to the wrong mark on the crank. (knowing me) Everything seems good. All grounds are good. All powers good. BUT there is no spark. Just as you stop cranking it will let out a dull spark, sometimes. I wired up the switched and non switched power and the "while cranking power"to the ignitions pink plug. I wired the cel in to the 1st pin and it works fine, got fuel wired into the old FP relay along with the tach and the vss to the reed switch in the dash. The ecu pins seem to all read as they should, grounds grounded, continuity, 12v. Its gotta be something dumb, right, but what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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