MRduke Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Hi there, I HAVE done a bunch of trolling for a "checklist" of sorts when buying, and found a lot of good info. Thanks everyone! But I'm about to go there to check it out, do a comp test, etc.. and wanted to see if there were any known issues I maybe didnt find in my research for the 94 2.2l engines...? Also, I have never done an oil pressure test; could anyone send me in the right direction, as far as ease of procedure and where the tester goes, etc.? Thanks SO much.. Oh, it has about 160k, manual awd, power stuff, new rubber, "runs good", so this seems like a super deal. Still, I wanna be thorough.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muffman Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 I bought a 91 awd legacy with 206k miles on it for $900. It ran fine (it did have a check engine light on for the evaporative system) until someone t-boned me and totaled it. Seems like a good deal, if it runs and drives good. I have never checked oil pressure, so I cannot help you there. I'd say if the light is off and it runs without excessive valve noise you are probably ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 I bought a 91 awd legacy with 206k miles on it for $900. It ran fine (it did have a check engine light on for the evaporative system) until someone t-boned me and totaled it. Seems like a good deal, if it runs and drives good. I have never checked oil pressure, so I cannot help you there. I'd say if the light is off and it runs without excessive valve noise you are probably ok. I agree about there not being a need to check oil pressure. If motor runs quiet, and the dash board oil pressure is not lit, then don't worry about low oil pressure. Most important thing, is how does it drive? Any strange noises? anything not right? Brakes seem good? Look under front of car to see if the half shaft boots are in tact. The 94 Model has the 2.2 almost bullet proof motor that is prolly good for 300K miles if it has been treated right. If all is well, the car is a good buy for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRduke Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 It does need both front CV axles, but I can do that no prob and have on a loyale. Also, it sounds like the right rear wheel bearing is out. Mostly its the tranny that worries me: it has this sort of, I hate to say it, "grinding" quality. It drives great, no slipping or loss of power and all the gears are found easily and without actual "Grinding"...just that sort of subtle "grrrrrrr" when the clutch is let out and when accelerating in gear... Taking it to the local Guru today for a $20 inspection. He's already over the phone saying its a good deal...we'll see! Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 (edited) Mostly its the tranny that worries me: it has this sort of, I hate to say it, "grinding" quality. It drives great, no slipping or loss of power and all the gears are found easily and without actual "Grinding"...just that sort of subtle "grrrrrrr" when the clutch is let out and when accelerating in gear... Very common on the EJ 5 speed's. Means the rear input shaft bearing is shot. I've replaced a couple for that reason as have other members. It's either replace the tranny or rebuild it. This can happen at surprisingly low mileage. The last one I replaced only had 115k on it. Taking it to the local Guru today for a $20 inspection. He's already over the phone saying its a good deal...we'll see! I dissagree. Bad wheel bearing, bad axles, bad transmission. That's a $250 car. I bought a '91 AWD Automatic not long ago for $200. Installed a used injector (#3 had failed), replaced a wheel bearing and all the front axle boots, new timing belt/idler/seals/water pump, cleaned it up and repainted the hood and one fender (peeling clear-coat from previous minor body work). I sold it for $1400 - had about $800 into it. There's no way I would pay $800 for one with a bad tranny. Not a Gen 1. I paid $500 for a '96 not long ago with the same problem - replaced the tranny for $200, new clutch - complete 60k serivce, etc. Sold it for $2000. Those are just examples to give you an idea. Look around for a deal but don't spend your money on something that needs major repair like a tranny swap unless it's CHEAP and you can do the work yourself. GD Edited March 13, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRduke Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Good Call: All of what you said is what the mechanic said once he inspected it. He said that maybe its worth $400 if I do all the work myself, which I could, minus the tranny swap...he said sometimes they can be noisy like that and still last for tens of thousands of miles? Or just kerplop right away. CLutch swap for $200? Maybe you could do this one for me...ha! Well, the seller took all the info to heart, and is now thinking of dontating it come tax season next year; told them to give a call if they want to part with it for $400...now I'm even reconsidering that offer. Turns out the Bypass Air Control is shot too, hence the funny idle and chk engn light. Dang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRduke Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Oh! And my whole plan is to drive to Alaska come May...probably not wise, but anyone think I could possible, maybe, perhaps, make it with a whiny input shaft bearing? There and back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I do clutches all the time - $200 labor + parts. I'm in West Linn, OR - don't know where you are? If you want the tranny swapped AND the clutch done - $300 labor since I don't typically pull the tranny for a clutch. Usually I pull the engine. Pulling the tranny is a lot messier. But yeah - I'm one of the Subaru guru's around here I suppose you could say. I buy and sell them all the time and I do work on the side for folks. If you buy it bring it on by and I can fix it up. Still not really a good deal IMO though. I would give them $200 tops for that car. Sounds like a nice engine donor for an EJ22 swap. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRduke Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 Wait, I think I need a little clarification: The input bearing issue could only be fixed with a tranny swap/rebuild, and NOT just a clutch replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 The input bearing issue could only be fixed with a tranny swap/rebuild, and NOT just a clutch replacement? 100% correct. The bearing in question is deep inside the transmission. You have to completely dissasemble it. And the cost of the parts to rebuild one is usually several times the cost of a good used one. Some go half a million miles without issue. Other's die quickly. Don't know exactly the cause - probably maintenance of the gear oil. Most people never change it and that's pretty rough on the bearings. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRduke Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Thanks a ton people, especially general disorder...you save me from a sad, sad legacy... So instead I got one from a dealer that had someone trade it in! This was weird for me cuz i've never bought from a dealer (those fees sucksuck). But an old person owned it, they passed away and this younger couple had the clutch replaced, headgaskets done before trade-in. She's solid (good thing cuz I'm going to Alaska!). The dealer called it a "beater", and he didnt even want it in his lot. Before paperwork, taxes and fees, I paid about $850 for the car. So, 1992 L AWD wagon, sinroof , rack, CD, power stuff, optima red-top battery, straight, good paint, new clutch/HG's (at least, but I have yet to scope all the maintenance records...), 171k, paperwork, manual, toolkit. I got a rear knuckle ($20 jy) to replace the whiny wheel bearing, and no rust meant fairly easy swap, and shizzam! My chariot! Will post pics soon if I can...classic forest green! In my excitement, I'll continue rambling: Changed oil asap. Concerned about MPG, so gonna swap in a new o2 sensor. Put new high flow air filter in. Gonna get rear diff oil changed. Gotta get new rubber up front. Was trying to peek at the timing belt and the plastic housing cracked on the "nut" side of the two bolts I attempted to loosen (common?). Should I do a compression test, even though it seems all good? Just for fun? Hmmmm.... I'm stoked! This is like a more aerodynamic and reliable version of my 87 loyale I used to have. Soobs Rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Sounds pretty good. Suggest you get new rubber on all 4. With AWD it's critical that all tires match in circumference. Keep us posted on your progress. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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