Hi everyone,

I have a 1996 Legacy Outback with a 2.2L engine. The starter is starting to fail (likely due to carbon scoring on the contacts) and I was wondering how difficult it is to remove the starter...I'm going to take it into a shop and have it rebuilt.

 

From the pictures I've seen on the web it looks fairly simple...two bolts mounting it onto the engine and then the electrical cables...is there anything else I should be wary of?

 

Thanks...

 

 

--Damien

disconnect the batter first

 

But you knew that

 

They are straight forward, 14mm on top 17mm on bottom

it's very simple it will take no longer than ten min to pull out. don't forget to unhook the pos. batt cable first.

It really is quite easy, as Noah said. You might want to reach the bottom one from under the car (but it can be done "blind" from the top.)

 

How is it failing? May be as simple as replacing the copper contacts in the solenoid. Try a search for that--it's been talked about in the past.

 

Good luck.

well...when I try to turn the engine over it just clicks...usually I have to make 3-4 attempts until the starter finally kicks in and starts the engine.

 

Oftentimes whacking the starter with a wrench will improve its functioning (supposedly it helps the loosen the carbon buildup which I read may be the cause of its poor functioning)

 

Sometimes when the weather is wet enough I can't start it at all and have to wait until it gets drier....

 

So I can remove the starter from the top without much difficulty?

 

 

--Damien

[quote

So I can remove the starter from the top without much difficulty?

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

It's a Subaru........"difficulty" is a relative term according to how much skin you have on your knuckles!

As someone else replied to this thread, there are 2 bolts that affix the starter to the engine block. The bottom long bolt can only be worked on by touch/feel, and can't be seen. Still not a big deal. I jam a rag or paper towel under the nut, so if dropped, it won't fall down deep into the engine bay and be difficult to retrieve.

 

Removing bolts does require a hand wrench to hold the nut, while using a drive to loosen the bolt.

 

For my time and money, I would buy a rebuilt from a parts store, and not waste time waiting to have the old one rebuilt. Rebuilts for me have always lasted a long time, and have a lifetime guarantee.

well...when I try to turn the engine over it just clicks...usually I have to make 3-4 attempts until the starter finally kicks in and starts the engine.

 

Yup, bet it's the copper contacts. They get pitted, burnt and worn over the years. Should be able to get a set online or at an auto-electric shop for 10 or 15 bucks.

so there's both a nut and bolt involved? I think I'll just have my mechanic do it....the only things I can do with confidence are fluid changes and replacing the fuel and air filter.....

 

 

If I had my own shop, lift, tools and equipment it would be like 'going to heaven'... :-)

 

 

Cheers,

Damien

There is not a nut and bolt involved on the SAME attachment. The only hard part is removing the bottom attachment [nut/bolt-I can't remember] which requires a different socket. I've done two changes on 2.2l engines from the top. On the first one,I tried to use a 14 mm socket on the bottom attachment for 15 minutes before I realized it was a different size LOL!

There is not a nut and bolt involved on the SAME attachment. The only hard part is removing the bottom attachment [nut/bolt-I can't remember] which requires a different socket. I've done two changes on 2.2l engines from the top. On the first one,I tried to use a 14 mm socket on the bottom attachment for 15 minutes before I realized it was a different size LOL!

 

the top attachment is a bolt, 14mm socket. the bottom is a nut on a stud, 17mm, which i found so difficult from above that i reached from below. mostly so i could see it.

I've never seen the inside of a Subaru starter, but I assume they all work the same. I 2nd the "contacts"

 

After all the starts that thing has done, the plunger has probably beaten the copper contacts so bad that it doesn't create a circuit every time you turn the key. New ones are a cheap and easy fix you can probably do on your kitchen table in a few minutes.

on my kitchen table? ha ha ha

 

 

Having neither the time nor the patience I drove it up to my mechanic today...

 

 

Cheers,

Damien