rtcaravan

i don't have my subie near done for the road yet but i should be coming with my buddy. he is taking his volvo down with the volvospeed club.

LOVE THE GTP !!!! we had one a few years ago and had some work done to it. it was a fun toy ! i have an 86 gl-10 if you need parts. this has a digi dash not shure if it works i didnt try to start the car yet , then again im only using it as a parts car.

I'll take pix and post of the gl10 i got with it tomarrow.

88 gl i just bought. and the gl10 that came with it has 114000 on it.

my new 88 gl project wagon 5 speed w/ d/r. going to get 2" lift, 215/75/15'5, wheel wheel trimming, body work and paint. remember i bought this one and a gl10 for $150. weather getting good now i can start working on it.

Can't afford the kit I want right now. Just want to get it up to fit my 215/75/15's. I'm not worried about trimming fenders.

I have been looking at the sjr lifts but just want to get it up for now. I was thinking the 2.5" or 3". Will the spacers from an outback work to drop it?

cant quit find the answer in looking for. when i lift my gl i know 2" will not bind the axles but if i go 3" with out dropping the rest will the axles bind up? just want to make shure i dont brake anything.

i am getting the gl for $150 and the gl-10 for free. can't beat that. will post pics when i get them to my home.

good thing you talked him out of the audi. they are the same as a vw JUNK! talk about nightmare cars stay away from audi and vw!

1982gl4 nice looking car bro ! good work !

i guess chip foose is wasting all his time fixing old rusted cars and making them new too. damn he made a ton of money wasting time. some people love fixing cars weather it be a subaru gl to a vw jetta to a dodge aries. its the love of doing it. as far as rusting in a few years tou have to fix it right first. dont just rivet sheet metal to it and bondo it. of course it will rust back out in 2 years. if you do it right the first time it will last many years. its the love of the build gd. no one is telling you not to put toyota parts in a subaru just because they dont like toyotas. i would rather put a 4.0l jeep drivetrain and dana 44's in a subaru , but i dont have the money to do that. its just the automoblie love that we have. if we all liked the same things it would be a boring world. a JEEP GUY looks at it like this , if it brakes , BUILD IT BIGGER AND BETTER !!!! and yes i was thinking about the lsd swap too. that is the first thing i looked to see if it had and what gears.

THANK YOU MILESFOX !!!! i was on craigslist in central pa area and saw a just for $2000 wtf ! and a brat with no title for $800 people around here are crazy. its hard to find a good car cheap around here. i got lucky when i got the 91 legacy wagon for $500 but that needed a trans. would rather do body work than have to replace a heavy trans. but would do it if i had to again.

the 95 legacy postal we just got rid of was in worst shape and twice the miles. rockers were rotted and the rear wheel well were gone. had to replace fuel lines too. the car was from ny at the begining of its life and was in bad shape. glad that one is gone. both gl's have great interior and the same color and need no work. only have to do external work.

yes pa has hard inspection laws. i should know i'm an inspection mechanic. so for time and money. i have sheet metal , a welder , body filler and everything to make it pretty again. as for cost very little , time is no big deal. yes i'll have a parts car if i need it. i built a 90 jeep wagoneer (xj) and only had about $2500 into it including the cost of the jeep. it had 6" lift 33" tires custom bumper 9500lbs winch and alot more stuff. redoing a project to put it on the road again - PRICELESS !!!

all work on car is no problem. love taking junk and making it look good again. just like restoring a old muscle car you dont just let it rot you build it better. gd i know you dont like this engine i have read some of your posts. all ready had a first gen legacy with outback struts. been there done that. want something diff , like it when people say your f'ing nutz for doing that. you can't do a head swap from a 2.2 to the 1.8 can you? i'm guessing prob not but thought i would ask anyway.

is the ej22 a direct bolt or do you need adapter plates and other parts. and both bodys are about the same rear lower quarters , rockers and subframe all need work as far as i can see.

i just moved and my neighbor has a gl and a gl-10 that have been setting for about 10 years. the bodys on both are in bad shape and the insides are in good shape. the gl is 1.8 fi with duel range 5 speed and around 103000 miles (ran and drove great. the gl-10 of course is turbo and has about 114000 miles on it but i guess the auto trans is bad. i've been thinking about buying them both and building one good one. it would get lifted for shure. but i was thinking about putting the turbo motor into the duel range car. have been reading about newer engine swaps. what would be best to do and i want to keep the duel range because it will go off road. open to suggestions before i buy them.

the one i tried is off my other subaru i'm junking that is only was only about a month old. i think it is an usa alt. where does the wire run from the alt? i need to buy another car tomarrow or get it fixed. down to one vehicle and we both need to go to work.

my wife was delivering mail today and and the wagon left her set again. not charging again. replaced alt. and still nothing. do the have internal or external voltage regulator. i'm tired of this pos and will never buy another subaru but i need to get it fixed like yesterday! can anyone help? could it be a short?

driving or idling it dont matter. i had to go jump the car when she was working, and she was useing the a/c. this is why the new batt. and terms. all connections are good and clean. i will try jumping it when she is done with work today and let you know what happens.

my wifes 95 legacy postal dont charge under load. lights and radio it charges fine, turn on the a/c forget it 12.2. swaped a good alt in and the same thing. any sugestions?

you have an inner tie rod and outter tie rod end. the inner tie rod screws fast to the main part of the rack and is half covered with the black boot. then the outter screws fast to the inner and locked fast with a jam nut. they are very simple to change and cost a lot less than a rebuilt rack. if the rack isn't binding or leaking from internal seals no sense in replacing it. the only fluids you can mix is trans fluid in the ps. never mix any other fluids thoe.

replacement inners and o-ring is the way i'd go. i just put inners in my wifes 95 postal.