yesyeah Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) Source of the crazy sound, I am being told, is a catatlytic converter assembly. I am being told it's the rear converter assembly that needs replacing with some gaskets etc. How much should this be costing?? Anyone? Please help, want to make sure I am not ripped off. 1999 legacy wagon 77k thanks! Edited May 10, 2010 by yesyeah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 If it's the cat I believe it's covered by a mandatory federal law until like 100k. Hoepfully someone here will know. Other than that it's probably the flex joint immediately before the second cat. I have them cut out and new pipe (like 4") welded in for 40 bucks. But I have a lot of them done so you may need to pay more. I see NO ADVANTAGE to keeping the doughnut/spring loaded bolts setup. I'm sure there is a reason - but not good enough to spend hundreds more on the same repair. Save the money for the upcoming head gasket repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesyeah Posted May 10, 2010 Author Share Posted May 10, 2010 Thanks for that, Are you referring to this? http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt I hadn't heard of that before. Sadly, that seems to be showing 8 years / 80,000 miles. While I have under 80,000, the car is a 1999. If there is a 100k warranty situation, I would love to know about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StructEngineer Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 The limit is 8yr/80,000 mi. I highly suggest replacing gaskets and o2 sensors before replacing the very expensive cat. If the cat is bad, then you should also be looking into why it went bad....there's usually something wrong that causes it. They dont just go bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesyeah Posted May 10, 2010 Author Share Posted May 10, 2010 Thanks for that input StructEngineer. The horrible exhaust sound really just came out of nowhere. Last week the check engine light came on while my wife was driving home from Pittsburgh - but when she told me it was not long after filling it up with gas, I disconnected the battery, tightened the cap, and it's been fine. That was like 6 days ago. Then yesterday, all of a sudden, the car sounds like a mad go-cart! Will get a different set of eyes on there. I think the quote to replace the cat converter assembly and the 2 gaskets was about $600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesyeah Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Turns out it's not actually the converter that is bad, but one of the connects has rusted. 2nd opinion guy said I could go to a shop to have it welded (but makes it harder when it does need to be replaced), sleeved (less stable) or just replace the assembly if I wanted to. I found the subaru part for cheaper than the after market) and am getting more work done on the car now (the oil pan gasket at the same time too). I am planning on keeping the car for a while so I am just going to go for it, but with a different place that I trust more. Thanks for the heads up to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 2 thoughts. Just have a new sleeve welded in. Shouldn't be much. Like I said I get them done for 40.00 - but I get a lot of them done. Second - are you SURE it's the oil pan seal (there actually isn't a gasket). Have you read here about hte oil seperator/baffle plate. If not do some searching. You may be throwing your money away with that repair as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesyeah Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 It's actually looking like it's leaking from both areas. I the oil pan isn't costing me much to fix so I am just going to get it done. It is very likely the baffle plate which I am anticipating fixing within a few months. Thanks for the post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 The pan is a PITA. Can't get at the back bolts without lifting the engine a little. Seriousely I'd probably just wait until the engine is pulled. It's stuck on there pretty good with sealer (not a gasket). I know it's not my car and I don't know how bad it's leaking. Perhaps others here will chime in. How much oil are you adding - if any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 seriously - it is rarely the pan itself that leaks, even tho it looks like it is - it is usually something else leaking, dripping down onto the pan and making it look like it is the pan leaking. before you go spending any money on that, i would clean everything up good under there - use a degreaser of some sort to get as much oil off of there as possible. go for a 25-30 mile drive, then get under there and look at things closely (small flashlight is very useful here) - chances are the oil is coming from somewhere other than the pan. as for the exhaust problem - i'm with davebugs - unless you are made of money, get a sleeve welded in. Much cheaper! Just had my car in for a minor exhaust repair - we thought it was one of those joints/gaskets, turns out when he investigated further I had a small hole just ahead of the joint under the heat shield - $20 later it is welded up & all fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesyeah Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Thanks for all that guys, much appreciated. Will be looking into this further. I am fairly certain my baffold (rear seal) IS leaking and dripping down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 The rear main seal is DIFFERENT than the baffle/oil seperator plate. Most folks here (including me) don't touch the rear main. Resist the temptation to replace it just because the engine is out. The only ones I've ever needed to replace were already replaced one time. My local dealer doesn't even stock them - what's that tell ya? A tube of Ultra Grey and some carb/brake cleaner and a gasket scraper are all you need for the baffle plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 ^ what rooster said! Here is a good link on DIY for the Oil Separator Plate http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx Engine or transmission has to come out to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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