May 14, 201015 yr I know this is probally dumb but I will ask it anyway.Im designing the 8" front lift blocks for when I put a Tcase in my rig.Im offseting them 5* per inch of lift.Im offseting 5* instead of 7* because with 7* offset on my 2" blocks and the EA82 suspension I have some pretty good negative camber going on.So Im thinking a little less offset should help that.Anyway if my math is correct the total offset will be 40*.Also if my math is correct that will end up moving the strut in 4.62 inches which seems like a lot.Is my math correct,and then if it is do I just bash the hell out of the strut tower for clearance? or is there something I am missing?Blocks would be for an EA81.Thanks in advance.
May 14, 201015 yr So Im thinking a little less offset should help that.Anyway if my math is correct the total offset will be 40*.Also if my math is correct that will end up moving the strut in 4.62 inches which seems like a lot.Is my math correct,and then if it is do I just bash the hell out of the strut tower for clearance? or is there something I am missing? You're math is wrong. Angles don't change cause you add more length to the line. If you cut it 7 degrees, it will be a seven degree block, and however long it is, it will still be a seven degree block. But, If you measure the angle between the tower and horizontal, you'll find it's actually about 14 degrees. Don;t know where you got 7 but whatever. If you build your block right, you won't be moving the strut tops in at all. They will drop directly vertical down. If you built straigh blocks (no angle) , they would push the tops out. So the angle doesn't actually "bring them in" it keeps them from going out.
May 14, 201015 yr If you build your block right, you won't be moving the strut tops in at all. They will drop directly vertical down. I'm sorry man, but that's just not true. Even a 3 inch kit requires a great deal of beating on the inner firewall to clear the struts accounting for the offset. Without that offset, the camber is rediculous. \-/ Ubaroo. Try this. Set the wheels on the ground, set a strut on there, point it straight up, see what you get.
May 14, 201015 yr I'm sorry man, but that's just not true. Even a 3 inch kit requires a great deal of beating on the inner firewall to clear the struts accounting for the offset. Without that offset, the camber is rediculous. \-/ I didn't say there was no bashing. I didn't say no offset. I said the strut moves straight down, not *IN* The block does need to have an offset. Because of the angle of the body mounts, a "straight cut" block would push the tops out. So the angle doesn't really bring them in, it keeps them from going further out. Makes them go vertically down to the new mounting point. But, because of the angle of the towers, when the strut moves down, the top runs into a bit of a hump in the body. That DOES need bashed in. Not because the struts move in, but because the towers have an angle and when you push the tops straight down it hits. What I am getting at is that in the end, if you where to measure total distance directly across between Strut top to strut top, the distance should be the same when you are done with the lift as it was in the factory mounts. Understand what I mean? If as Uberoo said, you actually *moved* the tops *IN* 4 inches per side, they'd be in the engine bay. If the blocks are correct, the tube should be straight up and down vertical when mounted to the body. Distance between the two tops should not change. Edited May 14, 201015 yr by Gloyale
May 14, 201015 yr Author i'm confused. you say they have to be offset but then you say they have to go straight down. Wait: I think I get it: the tube itself is straight down with the top and bottom plates welded on at an angle so that there angle is equal to what the strut tower is. Edited May 14, 201015 yr by Uberoo
May 14, 201015 yr Having built my own strut tower blocks with adjustable camber, I can say that Gloyale is pretty much correct. The reason for the bashing requirement is that the inner fender-wall actually extends farther outward at the new location of the strut top than it does at the factory location. And the strut *top* is larger in diameter than the spring itself. The goal is to drop the strut straight down. Thus preserving the camber. Actually - with the adjustable camber blocks I built (4") I had to do very little bashing. Only where that "bump" is located. As I recall, my uprights between my upper and lower plates are cut at 15* to offest the bottom plate inward. I picked an angle that would put the lower plate far enough inward that I would have plenty of camber adjusment. GD
May 14, 201015 yr the tube itself is straight down with the top and bottom plates welded on at an angle so that there angle is equal to what the strut tower is. Bingo Plates are welded to the tube at an angle. Strut mounts in body are at an angle. When you bolt the lift block to the body, the angles should match so that the tube is VERTICAL. this will still require bashing the inner fender where it "humps" outward.
May 14, 201015 yr I know this is probally dumb but I will ask it anyway.Im designing the 8" front lift blocks for when I put a Tcase in my rig.Im offseting them 5* per inch of lift.Im offseting 5* instead of 7* because with 7* offset on my 2" blocks and the EA82 suspension I have some pretty good negative camber going on.So Im thinking a little less offset should help that.Anyway if my math is correct the total offset will be 40*.Also if my math is correct that will end up moving the strut in 4.62 inches which seems like a lot.Is my math correct,and then if it is do I just bash the hell out of the strut tower for clearance? or is there something I am missing?Blocks would be for an EA81.Thanks in advance. I can send you a paper pattern if you like that would be correct angle , it will require clearence of the body either by cut and bash or small diameter strut springs , or I can make you a set of extensions
May 14, 201015 yr Whats with all this bashing talk.... I did not have to bash anything with my 6in lift... things bolted right in... camber is perfect (as verified by my alignment shop) all we did was set toe and go. I am not saying that isn't what you guys had to do...I just didn't experiance it with my lift 6in EA82 BOSS lift.
May 14, 201015 yr Whats with all this bashing talk.... I did not have to bash anything with my 6in lift... things bolted right in... camber is perfect (as verified by my alignment shop) all we did was set toe and go. I am not saying that isn't what you guys had to do...I just didn't experiance it with my lift 6in EA82 BOSS lift. EA81 strut towers dont have the same clearance inside them that the EA82's do. Bashing is required on EA81 lift installs. -Bill
May 14, 201015 yr Yeah - EA82's are a lot different. Also the height of the blocks matters as well - there comes a point at which you don't have to bash or cut anymore because you have dropped the strut top so far that it's out of the tower where clearance is no longer an issue. I'm not sure at what point that occur's on the EA81's, but go high enough and it will. GD
May 15, 201015 yr You can't really tell from that picture. I would guess they are since I'm sure Scott isn't building tower blocks that don't have camber correction - which is what a straight block would be. For a 3" lift it's approximately 3/4" inward offset. For 4" it's about 1" inward offset - that's the offset of the bolt holes from the top to the bottom plate. GD
May 18, 201015 yr Whats with all this bashing talk.... I did not have to bash anything with my 6in lift... things bolted right in... camber is perfect (as verified by my alignment shop) all we did was set toe and go. I am not saying that isn't what you guys had to do...I just didn't experiance it with my lift 6in EA82 BOSS lift. hmmm, same here. 1986 ea82 wagon , no bashing
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