I'm having trouble with the Brat dying because it's not getting enough fuel. Hitachi Carb. I've checked all the connections and there are no fuel leaks, checked all the wires I can get to except having removed the Fuel pump and checking it's electrical contacts.

 

I'll be changing the fuel filter tomorrow (just to be sure that's not it) and I'm looking into replacing the fuel pump. Fuel pump doesn't making any noise when the key is turned to the ON position engine not running, but the car starts & drives for a few miles anyway.

 

Anything else I should check out?

 

I don't have a multimeter (yet) or anything to check fuel pressure.

 

If I need to replace the fuel pump any recommended outlets for buying one.

 

I need this to hold me over until I gather the $$ and parts for the EJ22 swap.

the fuel pumps on EA81's are known to die once the miles get up a bit....my one died at about 160'000km/100'000 miles.

 

replaced it and it was all good again....then converted to LPG about 2 months later lol

 

when you turn the key on it should go ticktickticktick....until it reach's fuel pressure...no ticktick= dead fuel pump....even if you have a clogged fuel filter the pump should still make that noise

besides the obvious fuel filter under the hood, isn't there a secong one under the car near the gas tank?

Replace the REAR fuel filter by the pump.

 

You don't need a new pump.

 

They do not run with the key on - only with the engine running. There is a fuel pump control unit that only powers the pump when it gets a tach signal from the coil.

 

GD

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They do not run with the key on - only with the engine running. There is a fuel pump control unit that only powers the pump when it gets a tach signal from the coil.

 

GD

 

hmmm i wonder if we got different pump control units here....my one used to run for a few seconds when the key was first turned on

hmmm i wonder if we got different pump control units here....my one used to run for a few seconds when the key was first turned on

 

It's about 1.5 seconds but it varies based on the circuit board. All the components have tollerance values and depending where they hit it could be slightly more or less.

 

But unless you can actually hear the pump (some are louder than others, etc), by the time you get back there to check for voltage or feel the pump you won't find anything.

 

GD

Thanks for the tips. New filter next to the Pump in front of the drivers' rear tire) goes in tomorrow (I'm supposed to be at work right now and have to go back in a minute. ), and hopefully that will take care of it.

 

I'll let you know.

Fuel Filter replaced. Plenty of gas up front now. Still dying after shorter and shorter distances. I'm thinking I need to replace the ignition coil.

 

Gonna try that today. Wish me luck!

 

Gonna get this thing running right if it kills me!

Edited June 1, 201015 yr by 2manetoys

Replaced the coil now as well as the Fuel Filter (rear). Plenty of gas up to the "vapor separator" (what the FSM calls the filter looking thing under the hood) and STILL dies after 2 or 3 miles.

 

Let me see if I can describe it any better. Car starts fine, very little trouble. put it in gear and go down the road. No Problem. There's an small exhaust leak so I get the higher pitched noise when I accelerate. anywhere from 1-5 miles down the road as I'm pressing or even sometimes just holding the accelerator in place, the pitch of the exhaust drops, all power is gone to the motor. Push the pedal to the floor and it will lurch forward for a second or 2, the back to no power. Still moves, but no power. repeats until the car has lost momentum or I shut it down for a few minutes. then starts right back up and will go for another short time / distance. Usually gets shorter as the process is repeated more often.

 

3 weeks ago, I drove it almost 100 miles home and it did this once. now I can barely make it out of the housing addition that I live in without it happening.

 

Since I bought it I've replaced:

Oil & filter

Air filter (there was some oil in the filter housing, but none now.)

Starter (overlooked a loose wire on the battery cable DUH! )

Spark Plugs (cap rotor & wires look new)

Ignition Coil

Fuel Filter

 

This is my first time really doing anything with a carbureted vehicle so there's a LOT that I'm still learning. I want to EJ it sometime preferably this summer, but if I can't figure out mechanical stuff like vacuum hoses and carburetors, then maybe I'm not up to tracking down wires and ECUs, and such.

 

I'm gonna check out the connections on the fuel pump, but I'm at a loss as to what else to check.

 

I've read about checking the vacuum hoses with carburetor cleaner and I assume that it is done with the motor running. but I'm not sure of exactly what to look for when I do.

 

I'm gonna spend some time reading the FSM on the emission system on the Mike Shoup link that I found somewhere on this wonderful site. I don't remember which thread I found it on, but I bookmarked it! I think it's for an 83 which should be very similar to the 85 I have.

 

Thanks for all the help guys! it truly is appreciated.

Sounds like a bad distributor module to me. I've seen similar problems from bad modules. Will start and drive for a short time then just die out and have to wait till they feel like working again.

 

GD

K. I'll look that up and see what I can find out about it.

 

Back to the research.

Just try a used one. That's about the only way to easily check them. They are not cheap new.

 

I'm pretty sure that's your problem though. Given what you are saying.

 

You can check for spark when this happens - get a spark checker and keep it handy. Though with the intermittant nature of the problem it might not be all that helpful.

 

Does the tach jump around at all?

 

Check the distributor for shaft play. It should be pretty tight. If it's sloppy like throwing a hot-dog down a hallway () then you should replace the distributor or have it rebushed.

 

GD

I'll see if I can find one around here. would a disty off an EA82 work on mine?

 

No abnormal tachometer jump, just when I'm shifting or accelerating / decelerating. But I'll watch closer to see if the tach jumps when it's lurching next time.

No - the EA82 distributor will not work without heavy modification and even then only one's from carbed engines would work. You would have to change the drive gear and cut off one of the mounting tabs as well as enlarge the slot. It can be done but it usually isn't unless it's with an SPFI conversion.

 

GD

Sounds like waaaaaaaaaaaay too much work to mod the distributor. There are a couple of things I'm going to try (using the carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and I'm going to check the gasket at where the intake and Hitachi carb come together to see if it leaks).

 

If none of those work it's going to a semi-local mechanic.

 

Right now I think I've narrowed it down to vacuum leak, fuel pump, distributor or carb.

 

I really need to find that swap from hitachi to carter weber carb thread.