So I finally got the car that I was stalking. Well, not finally.. I got it last Monday. Its a pretty neat car i think - EJ22, AWD, 240k New timing belt.

 

When i first got it, it was sputtering like crazy and the P/o said that the timing was perfect but he couldn't get it to stop sputtering (at low rpm, if you push on the gas too fast it would sputter and try and stall out). Before it would do this but backfire into the intake.

 

At the time it didn't sputter or backfire. I cleaned her up and took her for a spin around the block. Still hesitated for a bit, the transmission didn't seem to want to down shift while going up the hill. but didn't sputter! get around the block and turn to go back up the hill to the driveway, and it starts sputtering again. (push on the gas and wants to die).

 

Now, I know timing is good since it didn't backfire, but i did notice an arcing/sparking sound coming from #4. so i think now, its sputtering because its grounding out possibly on #2 or #4.. or maybe even both.

 

so my next idea was to get new cables and plugs and see where that takes me.

 

But right now.. I'm happy! and the wife is happy I'm not stalking a car!

 

here's some pictures to satisfy! its a bit dirty on the inside.. i'm wanting to get her to start and run before i'm going to worry about cleaning the inside just yet!

 

 

 

-Justin

By the way...

 

on the note of timing. when i removed the crank pulley i noticed it was fubar'd. Or at least it looked that way to me.. i've never seen anything like it.

 

Picture:

the keyhole about half way through the pulley is eaten up. is this something that happens?

 

-Justin

By the way...

 

on the note of timing. when i removed the crank pulley i noticed it was fubar'd. Or at least it looked that way to me.. i've never seen anything like it.

 

Picture:

the keyhole about half way through the pulley is eaten up. is this something that happens?

 

-Justin

 

I had this problem on a 91 Leggie. Finally got it super tightened, and used lock tight on the bolt threads to keep the bolt from ever thinking of backing out.

By the way...

 

on the note of timing. when i removed the crank pulley i noticed it was fubar'd. Or at least it looked that way to me.. i've never seen anything like it.

 

Picture:

the keyhole about half way through the pulley is eaten up. is this something that happens?

 

-Justin

 

this is something that happens when the crank pulley bolt is not torqued properly.

 

you are going to want to pull the crank sprocket off and check it. there is a pretty good chance that it is boogered too. and if so , your timing will be off.

 

there are several threads about how to deal with this, basically you replace the boogered parts, set it up correctly and then torque it to 140 ft lbs.

Just got back from putting new spark plugs and cables on her.. Runs like a champ! of coarse, she has bad gas though so she doesn't accelerate like she should.

 

The spark plugs that were in there were VERY crappy. They would've been crappy even for a lawnmower LOL!, also while i was at it, i replaced the cables and she was good to go!

 

One thing though..

I tried pulling the CE code and i'm a bit confused. I used the steps i found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98709

 

The story.

Beneath the dashboard ... there are two pairs of connectors. Two black and two green connectors.

...

Connect the two black cables.

...

And turn the ignition to ON (without starting the engine).

 

This will set the car into test modus (historic codes is displayed) in the dashboard. Just watch the blinking CEL (check engine lamp).

 

Every flash is +10 in value (light last 1.2 second). Three flashes, is the value 30.

 

Seperated with 3 seconds delay, before it shift over to the singular system (+1 value).

 

Every flash is +1 in value (light last 0.2 second). Three flashes, is the value 3.

 

Together the value in this example is 33.

 

the pat that i'm confused on is what is the delay between the x10 and the x1?

 

the reason why i ask is i have 2 long flashes and 2 short. (22 Knock sensor or circuit)

 

or

 

if it is 1 flash with a pause then 3 flashes.. then its cam angle sensor?

 

this sounds a bit silly, but i was going to get video of it LOL

 

 

-Justin

shoot, now after reading over it again i'm confused... even if its 1x light on pause, then 2x it would be starter code. or if it was 2x and 2x it would knock sensor...

 

-Justin

what did you do about the crank pulley?

i put it on super tight. i aligned the key to where it should've been and tightened it down. not wobbling.. i'm going to end up getting a new one i'm sure from the JY.

 

 

-Justin

when watching the CE light, the pause between codes is VERY obvious - several seconds long

 

the difference between the long & short flashes should be fairly obvious as well

 

I used this writeup when i had CEL issues recently - nice and easy to understand/follow.

 

it is very possible it has a knock sensor code @ that mileage if that has never been replaced

when watching the CE light, the pause between codes is VERY obvious - several seconds long

 

the difference between the long & short flashes should be fairly obvious as well

 

I used this writeup when i had CEL issues recently - nice and easy to understand/follow.

 

it is very possible it has a knock sensor code @ that mileage if that has never been replaced

 

knock sensor is general normal maintenance item on a ej22 once you have 100k miles on it. I have never seen one go past the 135k mark without going bad, EVER. when they die, you get the sputter....thats easy fix. replace knock sensor with a NEW one (not a junkyard one remember they all go bad), then reset the ecu overnight.

I'll keep that in mind.

 

So here's what i found odd... I had about 1/8th of a tank of that year old crap that was still in the tank when i first got the car. So, in an attempt to clean the system I put some premium gas in. According to the pump, it only took ~9 gallons to "fill" the car. I get in, turn the key and it says its full.

 

from what I've researched, the tank should be around 15-16 gallons yes? could the gas be that lacquered up on the bottom?

 

 

-Justin