1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) I'm about 85% sure it's the pads that are worn (I get a scraping sound when not on the brakes) and sometimes not when going straight.. anyways anyone know of some decent better pads then these autozone specials that were on the car? these are the pads that came with it when I picked up the car last year and I can say thank god it's time to change them out they dust like mad... back when I had my 03 Forester I put on Hawk HPS but I hated that the first few stops took a lot of heating up the pads for it to have a decent stop. I think I will be going with the Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads Edited August 13, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Try EBC Red Stuff pads. They grip extremely well at any temperature (can't say for sub zero/arctic, never driven with them below about 15°F). No such thing as brake fade if you use those with a good rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 they are a little pricey :-/ btw I've had hawk HPS pads before and I hated them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Pricey yes, but I've got ~10k miles on the set I bought and can't even tell that they've worn. And they're running against slotted rotors (which are known for chewing up brake pads fast). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Pricey yes, but I've got ~10k miles on the set I bought and can't even tell that they've worn. And they're running against slotted rotors (which are known for chewing up brake pads fast). I was looking at this link here.. http://www.speedycarparts.com/sku/Subaru_Legacy_Akebono_Brake-Pad-Set_1995_1995_W0133-1616583.html $50 a pad????? So that would be $400 for 8? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 I think they just have the page typed stupid. If someone is crazy enough to pay that much maybe they deserve it. I'll refer you to my favorite parts site Rockauto.com. Search Google for "Rockauto.com discount code" and you'll surely find some 5% discount codes floating around. It's not much but it's better than no discount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 I think they just have the page typed stupid. If someone is crazy enough to pay that much maybe they deserve it. I'll refer you to my favorite parts site Rockauto.com. Search Google for "Rockauto.com discount code" and you'll surely find some 5% discount codes floating around. It's not much but it's better than no discount. I've already ordered many of things from rockauto.. just that the akebono pads I need for the front are delayed one business day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Oh. Maybe check Tirerack then, they carry them. Though I'm not sure of their price... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) Oh. Maybe check Tirerack then, they carry them. Though I'm not sure of their price... yeah they have them but higher on the pads and shipping.. so I think I will stick with rockauto anyways.. besides I still need to get that motive power bleeder.. I tried one of those one man bleeder cheap kits with my impreza once.. man what a huge disaster! Also I want to say is I have brake judder now from what I understand is the pad material on the rotors... OK however back in march I replaced my front rotors only and I broke in the rotors/pads as if it was new but it still was not long until it came back again.. and it's not as if I ride the brakes (I have a MT) I'm sure it's due to the cheap non ceramics pads? Edited August 13, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT95 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 ...and I can say thank god it's time to change them out they dust like mad... Well let me know what past/current experience you have with specific pads that don't dust like crazy. The past two sets on my OBS have me ready to buy dust shields for my wheels. Edit: Reasonably priced pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Well let me know what past/current experience you have with specific pads that don't dust like crazy. The past two sets on my OBS have me ready to buy dust shields for my wheels. Edit: Reasonably priced pads. What I can remember with the Hwak HPS pads (my first time buying something other then OEM) did not dust crazy but it was still a decent amount.. but the Hawk's are not a full ceramic pad as far as I know.. speaking of pads anyone have the part number for the brake shoe? I know it's on this site someplace I just forgot to write down the number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Also I want to say is I have brake judder now When does it occur? high/low speed? Hot or cold brakes? The past two sets on my OBS have me ready to buy dust shields for my wheels. If you're currently using semi metallic pads then any type of ceramic will be a huge upgrade. Duralast ceramics have worked very nice for me on other vehicles. If there is a Federated Auto Parts store in your area they sell re-stickered Raybestos/Wagner ceramics for a good price. They were $40 here, but price may vary in your area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 When does it occur? high/low speed? Hot or cold brakes? If you're currently using semi metallic pads then any type of ceramic will be a huge upgrade. Duralast ceramics have worked very nice for me on other vehicles. If there is a Federated Auto Parts store in your area they sell re-stickered Raybestos/Wagner ceramics for a good price. They were $40 here, but price may vary in your area. I just installed Advance Auto Parts (house brand) ceramic on my 99 OBW. Price $43. I wouldn't be surprised if they aren't the same as the AZ Duralast ceramics. They perform just fine, at a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 When does it occur? high/low speed? Hot or cold brakes? mostly mid/high speed.. but remember I still have the other tie rod and lower ball joints to replace.. but I do remember when replacing the rotors with new rotors the brake judder went away.. My guess is the pads have uneven wear on them.. I'd say it only took about 72 hours on the new rotors for me to feel it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 nice pads delivered tomorrow but I doubt the rotors are good anymore.. I cringe when I need to put on the brakes so I try to be as light as possible. I might upgrade to slotted when I get the rotors this week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Yeah that sounds like the rotors are warped. It doesn't take long if you have excessive run-out. I'd take the rotors and have them turned. When you remove the rotors, grab a small wire brush and go to town on the hubs and remove ALL rust/scale buildup. Anything that isn't flat will cause the rotors to "wobble" as they spin which causes them to drag on the pads. It wears a small bit off here and there until eventually the rotor is no longer "flat". They make special shims to correct run-out but you need a dial rig to find out what the run-out is so you use the correct shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 I don't think they are warped but the depoits left from the pads what I'm talking about now is metal on metal.i drive about 28k a year so I got decent time from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 How many miles do you have on the "new" rotors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 How many miles do you have on the "new" rotors? geeez... I'd say like 10-15K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 So you see these are not the akebono's I changed my mind at the last min.. I also called rockauto to make sure they were an axle set since the price was so low.. ($25.51) anyways my other concern was if it had the gap on the pad side which it does.. pads are ceramic pictures from my htc evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 rotors are finally here question as you know most rotors already have a crosshatch pattern on them do I still need to scuff them up a little bit? Rear disc Also some people paint the hubs is that just to prevent rust or looks or both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb21 Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Also some people paint the hubs is that just to prevent rust or looks or both? Both I'd say. I painted mine with some VHT "caliper" paint, probably a bit overkill, but it was on-sale/cheap. Has held up good for the past 3 months or so. Don't forget on the rears to tape off the e-brake "drum" if you paint the back! You'll also want to clean the oil/stuff off they were packed in (if yours were that way). I have some pics somewhere... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 yeah I already painted as you can see here.. just put the 2nd coat on (argh I put my gloves on AFTER I already tagged myself..) I used Rust oleum ultra high heat good for 1200F I will be getting my wheels next week so good to get a head start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb21 Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Hehe, usually works that way! What color did you spray them, is that a grey/dark silver? Cool, saw that paint as well, I can't imagine rotor temp will get up over 500/600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 (edited) I painted it black plus I had a left over can for two years.. My wheels will be gunmetal so it should look ok. and in the oven they go.. I'm sure not needed but want to make sure they are done. Edited August 24, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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