1-3-2-4 Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 (edited) Uh-oh looks like I will need a new driver side rear caliper... You know the caliper pin will its in so tight that the part bolted on the bracket is turning but not the bolt stuck in the caliper... Can I save it? And by bolt I mean the sliding pin Edited August 30, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Isn't there a "flat" side to the part that the pin bolts into that's supposed to snug up against the caliper and keep it from spinning? It's been a while since I was in that deep... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 Yes it does not sure why it spun... Also ran into one more issue when I put the passenger rear wheel on the wheel locks up and this is with the handbrake off.. If you loosen the bolts the rotor spins free again... Drivers side rear seems not to have the same issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 The starwheel is up to move the brake shoes closer right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 (edited) http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=105416&mode=linearplus if you believe the internet, up to tighten (see link above) another procedure description below: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676114 Edited August 31, 2010 by brus brother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Odd it never contacts the inside of the rotor I do know that the spring gets in the way I just wont have a parking brake tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 is it possible the shoes are too low? I don't think you are suppose to pull the ebrake with the rotor off.. I hear that the pads will spring off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 Holy hell look at all that rust! I thought my truck was bad. The wheel is just a screw. If you can't see which direction the threads go you need to remove it, clean the crud off and re-grease it, then adjust after you put the rotor back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Holy hell look at all that rust! I thought my truck was bad. The wheel is just a screw. If you can't see which direction the threads go you need to remove it, clean the crud off and re-grease it, then adjust after you put the rotor back on. I cleaned the whole thing off with brake cleaner after i took the pictures but what grease should I use? my caliper stuff? I was looking at the FSM before I feel asleep for a few hours and it showed the grease points.. god whoever owned this car last did a piss poor job of whatever shop they took it to :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb21 Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 Shoes look like they have enough meat on them. Have you adjusted the cable at the e-brake lever at all? Maybe it was too tight there? Can't imagine you have to use anything special for grease... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Shoes look like they have enough meat on them. Have you adjusted the cable at the e-brake lever at all? Maybe it was too tight there? Can't imagine you have to use anything special for grease... I haven't but I will check when i get back I know when the old stuff was in it took like 8-9 clicks before it held and still then it was iffy on any type of small hill.. I'm going to pull the ebake with the rotor off to see if it's moving at all.. what I don't understand is if new rotors are on why would I need to adjust anything in the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Just took the rear off and I see why I could not turn it any more the stupid spring that connects the two pads was getting hung up on the star wheel. Also it could really use some lube.. I will give it one more season then I will do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 One more question I'm looking in the FSM and I'm inside adjusting the parking brake handle but before I touched anything I noticed (they call it equalizer) that pulls both rear parking shoe cables together it's very lopsided.. I haven't seen anything in the service manual talking about what to do if it's like this? here is a shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 it looks like the bracket is slightly more perpendicular in the second pic, maybe one cable is moving more than the other. maybe the driver side? cable needs to be lubed?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 (edited) it looks like the bracket is slightly more perpendicular in the second pic, maybe one cable is moving more than the other. maybe the driver side? cable needs to be lubed?? I think so too... I've had that issue since I got the car last year one side of the car would hold the car more then the other, while I do have parking brakes again I still have this annoying issue.. from what I understand it needs to be lubed on the part on the rotor hub where it the cable comes in I think it requires removing the brake shoes? What I noticed it seems like my brake hold down spring seems a bit too large in size to push the spring down. well the FSM calls it the "equalizer so I don't know if that means (most likely) when the hand brake is pulled. The 2nd picture is when it's pulled. Edited September 1, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Just took the rear off and I see why I could not turn it any more the stupid spring that connects the two pads was getting hung up on the star wheel. They usually have a spring to keep the adjuster from freewheeling and tightening or loosening on it's own while you drive. The equalizer is supposed to take up slack if one cable isn't as tight as the other. It helps "equalize" pressure on each drum to keep braking force even so one set of shoes isn't doing all the work. It could be that the drivers side cable is just slightly longer than the passenger cable, or has stretched more with time and use. Or it might be jammed and isn't returning properly. Or your passenger shoes aren't adjusted properly so that cable moves more when the park brake is engaged. Or a combination of several of these things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 I think the cable is suck or not moving freely at the hub because if I adjust the star wheel just enough that when I slide the rotor back on the shoes are in contact with the rotor and then turn it 2 more times and pull the e brake the wheel will still turn. I think my brake hold down spring tool is too large for the springs? It looks like this but has a red handle http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4591/?rtype=10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Those tools don't ever work right anyway. I end up using vice grips half the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 Those tools don't ever work right anyway. I end up using vice grips half the time. I was going to use it on the impreza which had rear drum brakes but never got around to it before I junked it. I think I will do the vice grips if I can find my smaller tipped one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 Oh to bleeding the brakes I did a DIY brake bleeder and I will test it out soon as I figure out what size the rear bleeder screws are.. I think it's M1x1.00 or something weird like that I know I seen it in the FSM manual.. having said that I will call this DIY brake power bleeder V1 I wont know how it works out until it's on and pressurized.. I had it up to 19 PSI with my finger on the barb and no leaks at the fittings but we will have to see at the cap and the oring at the top. Also a little blood was shed with my 1/2" bit catching my middle finger. I also was going to take out the rubber air bladder but that would of been a mistake since that keeps it sealed and I know for sure I would of had leaks without it. I also think I will cut the clear hose since that's 20' of hose which is too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 brake bleeder screw is 10 mm x 1.0 thread? Seems about what I remember will be nice to pain the calipers plus bleed the brakes at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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