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EA81: Fusible link problem


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Just had a new thing happen and it's going to drive me nuts.

 

Found the fusible link had gone bad and in a pinch we replace it with inline fuses. Worked great for a week then today I turn on my turn signal and it starts blinking crazily and the seat belt dinger goes off like a chipmunk on crank. Got that to stop when I checked my belt and noticed it was on the wrong plug.

 

I get to work and shut her down, then flipped the switch (has a toggle switch that turns on the power for ignition) and it;s dead. Check the inline fuse and it's blown. I get off work and replace the fuse and head down the road to the gas station. Shut down and when I try to start it, dead. Fuse is blown again. Replace it, get going and when I get home, blown fuse.

 

I need to know a few things, like the amps of the original fusible link and where the two wires run to. It's always the same one.

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Green = 40 amps

Red = 50 amps

Black = 80 amps

 

But fuses are not directly compatible with fusible links. Fusible links are designed to allow short bursts of higher amperage draw - it will take many seconds for a fusible link to blow - the higher the amperage draw the shorter the delay. For example - the Red link is a 50 amp continuous draw unit. At 130 amps it will still take up to 15 seconds to burn out per spec. They are not standard fuses that will blow quickly.

 

You need to figure out what went wrong with the original fusible link and fix the problem. You have a serious fire hazzard if you don't. Replacing links with inline fuses is incompetant and dangerous.

 

GD

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Green = 40 amps

Red = 50 amps

Black = 80 amps

GD

 

And how about white cloth?

 

I found fusible links at the parts store website. Now I need to know what the amp is for that particular part.

 

You need to figure out what went wrong with the original fusible link and fix the problem. You have a serious fire hazzard if you don't. Replacing links with inline fuses is incompetant and dangerous.

 

I know exactly what went wrong, at some point it shorted in the plastic connector and burned the piece. Fixing it is a challenge as I do not have the facilities to fabricate another and no junk yards local that have older cars to look for one in a pinch.

 

As for being incompetent, as a first time subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle I have owned, I'm having to make due as my own mechanic of my first subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle, I'm doing what I can with what I have.

 

The best I have been able to find on the subject in the three books I own is replacing it.

Edited by MaddCelt
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The square slow blow fuses that are in the later legacies and alot of newer cars will work in the old GL fusible link holder.

 

All you need to do is notch out the center portion of the fuse and it slips rigth into the holder. Bye-bye old wire type fusinble link......hello Slow blowing fuse (that you can buy at any parts store)

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And how about white cloth?

 

Sun bleached? Red, green, and black are the only colors I know of from EA Subarus.

 

I know exactly what went wrong, at some point it shorted in the plastic connector and burned the piece.

 

I don't think you do know what happened. The fusible link box is plastic so unless something is seriously fubar you aren't going to get a short. A "short" is a path to ground. What you probably are seeing is a poor connection between the male/female spade terminals on the box and the link - causeing resistance - which causes heat and eventually burning of the link and possibly melting of the plastic.

 

As for being incompetent, as a first time subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle I have owned, I'm having to make due as my own mechanic of my first subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle, I'm doing what I can with what I have.

 

You have this board - which you obviously didn't consult prior to wiring in a fast blow inline fuse in that location. The fusible links are the only thing that keeps people from burning their cars to the ground on a regular basis - it happens enough without them messing with that stuff. I've seen it happen. If fusible links didn't exist the road would be littered with burned out hulks.

 

You just need to carefully consider what it is you are messing with and how dangerous modifying it might be..... that's all I'm saying.

 

GD

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Sun bleached? Red, green, and black are the only colors I know of from EA Subarus.

 

These I do not think the actual fuse wires were colored, just white cloth. The wires connecting to the harness from the engine side were white with a black stripe and solid white and black from the harness to the battery.

 

I don't think you do know what happened. The fusible link box is plastic so unless something is seriously fubar you aren't going to get a short. A "short" is a path to ground. What you probably are seeing is a poor connection between the male/female spade terminals on the box and the link - causeing resistance - which causes heat and eventually burning of the link and possibly melting of the plastic.

 

Yes I did know what happened as I could see where it went bad and how, just used the wrong word to describe it. You are correct as to the reason it happened.

 

 

You have this board - which you obviously didn't consult prior to wiring in a fast blow inline fuse in that location. The fusible links are the only thing that keeps people from burning their cars to the ground on a regular basis - it happens enough without them messing with that stuff. I've seen it happen. If fusible links didn't exist the road would be littered with burned out hulks.

 

Unfortunately I did not have the luxury of time when my father and I were working on it. We had to take advantage of my mother and wife being in town and could stop to get what was needed.

 

You just need to carefully consider what it is you are messing with and how dangerous modifying it might be..... that's all I'm saying.

 

Agreed. It has been a learning process and thanks to your explanation I was able to correct my error. I went back and got actual inline fuse wire and I have not had any problems since the switch.

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