I just bought a 97 Outback Wagon 2.5 with 104k on it. It has a wierd transmission problem that I didn't notice when I test drove it.. When you stop the car and put it in Park, it feels like the engine is still under load. If you let off the brake, it doesn't go away till you shut the car off-then it settles back-like its in park. If you put it in neutral first, it doesn't happen. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Eric.

What are the engine RPM's. Is the AC off. What does it do in neutral? Is the fluid clean and full?

 

I would change the fluid and see what happens.

I just bought a 97 Outback Wagon 2.5 with 104k on it. It has a wierd transmission problem that I didn't notice when I test drove it.. When you stop the car and put it in Park, it feels like the engine is still under load. If you let off the brake, it doesn't go away till you shut the car off-then it settles back-like its in park. If you put it in neutral first, it doesn't happen. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Eric.

 

it sounds a little bit like a torque bind symptom to me. try stopping in N before you go to P. if the trans unloads in N you have torque bind. EDIT: duh, you said it does this.

do a search, lots of info on it here. to confirm it, test drive in slow, idling, tight circles to see if it drives smoothly or is jumpy, and binding, and needs some gas to go.

 

then check to see if all 4 tires are the same brand, size, tread design, air pressure, and have the same amount of tread left. mis-matched tires can cause / contribute to TB.

Edited October 28, 201015 yr by johnceggleston

torque bind sounds like a reasonable possibility.

 

if you put the fuse in the FWD holder on the passengers side strut tower and the issue goes away then it's definitely torque bind.

 

if the issue doesn't go away with the fuse, it still could be torque bind though as there are essentially two failure modes.

It just might be torque bind. It's a problem with the "Duty C Solenoid". I replaced it myself, but it takes hours and hours. I did it at the garage I worked at on the lift. Started at 11pm and finished around 6am. Getting into the trans extension housing takes a LOT of time, opening it has bolts in hard to reach places and then you have to put everything back together. Don't forget the Red Permatex.

Does the ATF light flash on startup?

it sounds a little bit like a torque bind symptom to me. try stopping in N before you go to P. if the trans unloads in N you have torque bind. EDIT: duh, you said it does this.

do a search, lots of info on it here. to confirm it, test drive in slow, idling, tight circles to see if it drives smoothly or is jumpy, and binding, and needs some gas to go.

 

then check to see if all 4 tires are the same brand, size, tread design, air pressure, and have the same amount of tread left. mis-matched tires can cause / contribute to TB.

 

Thanks all for the replies! I know I have a Torque Bind problem.All the tires are the same brand,size,wear,etc.. It feels like my old Loyale when I would forget to take it out of 4WD when I hit dry pavement. I will try the FWD fuse trick and see if both problems go away. Has anyone driven their car with the FWD fuse in for extended period of time? I was wondering if it would increase gas mileage.

Has anyone driven their car with the FWD fuse in for extended period of time? I was wondering if it would increase gas mileage.

 

yes, you can drive it like that for as long as the duty c lasts, assuming the fuse eliminates the symptoms. but, you run the risk of wearing out the duty c a little earlier. (you can buy them online for ~$100, so it will add to the repair cost, if you kill it prematurely, when you get around to doing it.)

 

it will not save you any money on gas with the fuse in.

 

or you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft and drive it forever. it will still not save you any gas money this way either. if you remove the rear axles and re-install the outer axle stubs in the hubs, and remove the rear diff and rear section of drive shaft, you MAY see some gas savings. but probably see just as much savings by removing the roof rack.

Edited October 29, 201015 yr by johnceggleston

I know I have a Torque Bind problem.

then that answers the question to this thread, it's torque bind related.

 

Has anyone driven their car with the FWD fuse in for extended period of time?

people do all sorts of crazy stuff, a simple switch equipped from the factory has definitely been used. that's been done like a million times. it won't hurt anything.

 

I was wondering if it would increase gas mileage.

no.

theoretically you'll get like a 0.0001% increase. weight and mechanisms are still turning, the only difference is the clutch pack isn't engaged. but both "sides" are still turning and creating drag - the driveshaft, rear differential, axles, and hubs are still bolted together to the rear wheels and creating drag as well as a couple/few hundred pounds.

Edited October 30, 201015 yr by grossgary