04 OBK Stalls @ 3000k rpm

[cygnus]

Ok so I have a 04 outback mt ej25 I just swapped long blocks, when starting the first time it started right up no problems, When going for the first test drive in first gear at around 3000 rpm the motor stalled, did not cut out but just stopped power, Scanned it and got PO519, I had cleaned my IACV prior and was getting very slight movement wih the valve. I've checked for loose hoses, unconnected hose checked Throttle and cruise cables all appears good. and Have adjusted the TPS which then threw code PO509 as well. Reset TPS and now just getting PO519. If Idling car sounds great runs smoothe when I give it gas beween 2500-3000 rpm it cuts throttle power and goes back to Idle, I've ordered and new 315.00 IACV but worried that may not fix my problem would love to save the money and return it if I don't open it. Any help or Ideas greatly appreciated.

 

[TheLoyale]

Sounds like it might staving for fuel or the mixture is being adjusted way off during the higher RPMs.

 

I also wonder if the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) is playing a part in this...?

 

-Tom

Edited November 8, 2010 by TheLoyale

[1-3-2-4]

What was your reason for needing to adjust the TPS?

[zacyork]

you should be able to test the iacv with an ohm meter across the terminals. i dont remember the number but with it closed it should be 0. +0.5- if you open the valve the ohms should go up

[Fairtax4me]

I could see this being a problem with the neutral position switch on the trans.

 

When does the CEL come on again after you clear the code?

Does it come back immediately at start, or only once the problem occurs?

[zacyork]

im pretty sure the neutral safety switch itself would throw a code if misbehaving. there are like 7 different nss codes. plus cars usualy wont start if its a bad switch

[Fairtax4me]

The neutral position switch tells the ECU when the trans is in gear, not when the clutch is engaged, and has nothing to do with starting.

Just because there is no code for it, doesn't mean something can't be wrong. Fault codes are not tell all end all for diagnosis.

[zacyork]

it has a lot to do with starting. its so the car wont start in gear. your are right that codes are not a tell all but they are there for a reason. it also doesnt say if its automatic or manual. i just couldnt see why that would make a car stall out at 3000rpm unless its some kind of neutral rev control. not trying to argue

[cygnus]

After reseting the code with my scanner it starts fine and no CEL, it will idle fine for as long as I let it no codes, as soon as I rev the engine above 2500-3000K CEL comes on motor stalls like it been governed, and will idle at around 1000 rpm. If I try to start with out clutch pushed in nothing happen's push clutch in car starts right up.

I am using the CTS that came with my reman motor from SSI and it looks used I will try to put my old one on and see if that helps.

 

When moving the IACV this moves very little in and out hardly can't see it moving, but can barely feel it moving maybe 1/64 of an inch, Does this move much? or should this move much?

 

Thanks for your guys input.

Edited November 8, 2010 by cygnus

[cygnus]

What was your reason for needing to adjust the TPS?

 

Just trying to trouble shoot the po519 code and had removed it when I cleaned the intake just checked to make sure it was set right, which it appears to be.

[cygnus]

you should be able to test the iacv with an ohm meter across the terminals. i dont remember the number but with it closed it should be 0. +0.5- if you open the valve the ohms should go up

 

I have a nice meter which I really barely know how to use can you provide more information on this, would I find this in my haynes manaul? I'm asumming I would test the wires/ plug pins that connect to the IACV for voltage correct? but how to test with it opened and closed?

 

Thanks for your input

[zacyork]

just a random idea but what if its going into limp mode which is why you cant get past that rpm. i dont know what rpm limp mode does but kinda sounds similar

[1-3-2-4]

Maf can cause limp mode

[zacyork]

so your mulimeter will have an ohm setting. put it on that. disconnect your iacv and test between you leads at the connector. with the valve shut it should read 0 when you open the valve the ohms should increase. im sorry that i dont have the exact ohms it should be at. damn i wish my mitchel on demand works.

[1-3-2-4]

just a random idea but what if its going into limp mode which is why you cant get past that rpm. i dont know what rpm limp mode does but kinda sounds similar

 

Limp starts at 3k

[cygnus]

just a random idea but what if its going into limp mode which is why you cant get past that rpm. i dont know what rpm limp mode does but kinda sounds similar

 

Limp Mode, what the Heck is Limp mode.

Edited November 8, 2010 by cygnus

[1-3-2-4]

Limp Mode, what the Heck is Limbo mode.

 

So you can still make it home

[cygnus]

Maf can cause limp mode

 

Found this online about MAF

 

1 CARDONE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR, REMANUFACTURED -- A high quality, direct fit OE replacement mass air flow sensor; Precisely measures the amount of air flowing into the engine; Provides exact information used by the engine to calculate fuel delivery; Will not cause hesitation or stalling.

 

But another website states it will cause Stalling? Damn another 180.00 decision..

Edited November 8, 2010 by cygnus

[Fairtax4me]

it has a lot to do with starting. its so the car wont start in gear. your are right that codes are not a tell all but they are there for a reason. it also doesnt say if its automatic or manual. i just couldnt see why that would make a car stall out at 3000rpm unless its some kind of neutral rev control. not trying to argue

 

Pretty sure the OP states MT in the first post.

 

As for the Neutral Position switch. Has nothing to do with starting on manual trans. Clutch switch on manual prevents starting, Inhibitor switch on auto trans will prevent starting.

3 different switches, 3 different names, 3 different functions.

(3 number threes, 3 word sets, 3 words each! ) [/number game]

 

When moving the IACV this moves very little in and out hardly can't see it moving, but can barely feel it moving maybe 1/64 of an inch, Does this move much? or should this move much?

There may be some small movement, but probably nothing to worry about. Not entirely sure how this particular valve works but if it doesn't move, don't try to force it.

 

When you removed the IAC, did you reinstall it with a new gasket from Subaru? Very important because the old gaskets stretch and do not seat/seal properly if re-used.

 

Don't go ordering more expensive parts until you get a better idea of what is going on. You'll just be throwing money at it, and may still not fix the problem.

 

After reseting the code with my scanner it starts fine and no CEL, it will idle fine for as long as I let it no codes, as soon as I rev the engine above 2500-3000K CEL comes on motor stalls like it been governed, and will idle at around 1000 rpm.

So it sets the code even if you free rev in neutral? Trans in neutral, foot off clutch correct?

 

Just for gits and shiggles, check the two little connectors on the passenger side of the bell housing right up on op of the block. One grey (I think), one brown. Make sure they're both firmly connected.

 

Not sure how much this will help, was the closest year I could find on short notice. Click the 2005.zip link to download the pdf, and you shall be blessed with the knowledge and instruction of Subaru FSM.

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

(Factory Service Manual)

[1-3-2-4]

Found this online about MAF

 

1 CARDONE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR, REMANUFACTURED -- A high quality, direct fit OE replacement mass air flow sensor; Precisely measures the amount of air flowing into the engine; Provides exact information used by the engine to calculate fuel delivery; Will not cause hesitation or stalling.

 

But another website states it will cause Stalling? Damn another 180.00 decision..

 

Dont go by what a website says.. it's better to go by what the FSM says.. Subaru made your car not A1 Cardone.

[cygnus]

Thanks All for your reply's After getting and trying the IACV still no improvement luckly I purchased through amazon and they will give a full refund. After using severial words of incouragement to my poor subbie, I checked the throttle and cruise cabels again and sure enough the cruise cable was to tight adjusted it to proper setting and no more p0519 code wow I can not stress enough to check these cables. However I also adjusted my TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and now am getting PO122error code so when I have more time I will try to fine tune that and hopefully get that resolved. I was wondering if adjusting the TPS up a little and then loosing the throttle cable would get the desired setting and remove the code. The TPS is at the lowset setting right now and I can not get the rpm lower than 1200k.

Edited November 9, 2010 by cygnus

[1-3-2-4]

the light still says on because the fault is still in the system as soon as the code is cleared.

Edited November 9, 2010 by 1-3-2-4

[cygnus]

the light still says on because the fault is still in the system as soon as the code is clear.

Thanks that is what I was thinking as well, I really appreciate your input with helping me try to figure this thing out.

 

Found this link on adjusting will try later tonight

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/i-play-wrong-guy-throttle-position-sensor-76060/

Edited November 9, 2010 by cygnus

[cygnus]

Issue resolved by just fine tuning the TPS and adjusting the throttle and cruise cables, Subbie runs perfectly smooth with no MIL ,:banana:,

[samneric]

Issue resolved by just fine tuning the TPS and adjusting the throttle and cruise cables, Subbie runs perfectly smooth with no MIL ,:banana:,

 

Steven likes this.