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AC no longer cold after HG replacement


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I just spent a bundle having my 98 Legacy OB's head gasket, timing belt, water pump, etc..etc..etc.. changed/repaired. Now my AC doesn't blow cold. It wasn't very cold to begin with, but now there's no change when I push the AC button.

 

I'm wondering if I just need a recharge (I plan to have it recharged tomorrow), or if there could be something else that might not have been re-attached when the engine was put back into the car. I have to go back in 400 miles for the follow-up visit, but I'm hoping to find the solution (or at least have a good understanding of the problem) before then.

 

the compressor is turning on because I feel the strain on the engine. That's all I know so far.

 

Any similar experiences?

 

thanks for reading.

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There is a leaky O-ring. Just recharging it will be throwing money away. Since it was low to begin with I can not fault the shop.

 

please tell me this isn't a massive repair. If the engine has to be removed again I'm going to sell this money pit. I love the car, but after spending $1000 more than I should've, then spending $2300+ a month later for repairs, I can't take much more.

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please tell me this isn't a massive repair. If the engine has to be removed again I'm going to sell this money pit. I love the car, but after spending $1000 more than I should've, then spending $2300+ a month later for repairs, I can't take much more.

 

No. open the hood you can see everything. If you question if the engine has to be removed to fix AC in a subaru, you should not mess with the system. About 100-150 bucks it will be fixed.

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hah! no, I don't do any auto repairs. I just research so I can (sorta) sound like I know what I'm talking about. I learn quite a bit just by reading forums. I just don't have the tools or the space to work on a car.

 

thanks much for your answers!

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Could be an oring or valve - both of which cost like a dollar. The problem is, as often as those need replaced - anyone please chime in if they've ever heard of a non-3 digit a/c repair? :rolleyes:

 

The a/c stop leak in a can stuff is worth a try.

 

Or - if you know anyone that can remove 2 bolts - have them replace the two orings at the compressor. Takes about 5 minutes and are the most likely to leak. If a possible $25 repair is worth it to you, go that route. Then add about two cans, get one with the gauge on it. For friends that would like it fixed but don't want to dump money into something I often do that - two orings and stop leak refrigerant. Make some happy friends...but sometimes it doesn't work too.

 

Don't be scared a/c stuff is overrated and actually really easy to work on, replace parts and charge it yourself.

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Could be an oring or valve - both of which cost like a dollar. The problem is, as often as those need replaced - anyone please chime in if they've ever heard of a non-3 digit a/c repair? :rolleyes:

 

The a/c stop leak in a can stuff is worth a try.

 

Or - if you know anyone that can remove 2 bolts - have them replace the two orings at the compressor. Takes about 5 minutes and are the most likely to leak. If a possible $25 repair is worth it to you, go that route. Then add about two cans, get one with the gauge on it. For friends that would like it fixed but don't want to dump money into something I often do that - two orings and stop leak refrigerant. Make some happy friends...but sometimes it doesn't work too.

 

Don't be scared a/c stuff is overrated and actually really easy to work on, replace parts and charge it yourself.

 

Except he is not mechanically inclined, personally i would rather he price it and get it done by someone.

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Except he is not mechanically inclined, personally i would rather he price it and get it done by someone.

 

Oh, I'm very mechanically inclined, just not when it comes to engines. I stopped working on cars many years ago. I do have a good friend who is a Chevy master mechanic. I could probably talk him into doing the work, even though he usually steers clear of imports.

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Oh, I'm very mechanically inclined, just not when it comes to engines. I stopped working on cars many years ago. I do have a good friend who is a Chevy master mechanic. I could probably talk him into doing the work, even though he usually steers clear of imports.

 

 

Chevy has imported parts, the same way subaru has american parts.

 

Yes do use him. He will be able to find the leak quickly and easily then fully recharge everything for you.

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i would at least ask him if he could just check the two orings at those a/c compressor fittings. common leakage points and those are stressed in an engine swap because the compressor/hoses are pushed/twisted aside and not disconnected. or just ask him to replace them, takes about 3 minutes.

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I would back up a bit and put a gauge on the system to see if it has lost charge or not. It could be a wiring issue as the vehicle has had extensive engine work done on it. There's always a possibility that something wire wise broke or isn't connected properly to keep the system from activating on command. If the pressure gauge shows low or no charge, then I'd go with the o-rings and such. Basics, fellas, basics.

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Basics, fellas, basics.
he said the compressor is coming on. if he's right, that implies the electrical stuff is working and i tend to assume it is since the electronics regarding the a/c during engine removal are rather simplistic, not a typical problem area.

 

worth a look of course, but i think any mechanic would pick that up rather quick.

 

this might be helpful when shopping around: subaru's very rarely need any expensive/extensive A/C replacement. it's likely just a leak. some mechanics like to replace like the evaporator, drier, and do the whole nine yards. that might be wise on some makes/models, but not subaru's. that's throwing money away. and the mechanic might not necessarily be hosing you, he might genuinely feel that's the safest one size fits all solution for all a/c systems and situations. if you run into that politely decline and go elsewhere.

 

hearing a bit about your car - find someone willing to do the simple and easy fix because that's all it'll need.

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Normally when the AC is running but not cooling properly, you can look at the sight glass on the receiver/drier. If you see many bubbles after the AC has been running a while, then it is low on freon, R22 or 412 whichever. A few bubbles is OK.

 

Just my experience with a 91 190E Mercedes which had an AC leak for the last 9 years of its life. Every summer I would just look at the bubble count diminish when recharging with a $24 freon 412 can.

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