I have an 85 brat with an EA81. It just shut off while driving the other day and hasn't started since. It was running perfect up to just shutting off out of nowhere. All you guys have helped me out so much in keeping my brat on the road, and I really appreciate it. Hoping you guys can help once again though with this one.

 

I'm getting fuel, but no spark. I took the distributer cap off and blew a hot hairdryer in there for a few minutes just to make sure there was no moisture in it, but it didn't make a difference. I wasn't getting a spark at the plugs, so I pulled the wire off the coil and held it close and it didn't arc either, so I'm guessing that might be the culprit.

 

So what I'm asking first is: am I on the right track here. what else should I be looking at?

 

Also, what ohm should my ignition coil have?

 

When I was searching for answers on old threads there was talk about an "ignition amplifier", but my car doesn't seem to have one. Is that possible or am I just an idiot.

 

thanks in advance for the tips.

A coil would be one of my first guesses.

anybody know what ohm it should read?

dont have my chilton with me at work, but did you check your fuses? and make sure the rotor is spining in the distributor?

I checked all the fuses, but didn't think about the rotor, i'll go do that right now. I still need to check the coil thought, but can't seem to find what ohms it should read.

dont have my chilton with me at work, but did you check your fuses? and make sure the rotor is spining in the distributor?

 

 

same here , check the rotor.

 

what'd ya find???

Yup, rotor is spinning. i'm not sure how fast it should be spinning, but it does spin when somebody cranks the engine.

Coil would be one of my last guesses.

 

Primary winding will be about 1 ohm.

Check for an open winding/bad fuse by looking for 12V at coil- w/key on.

Test light on coil - should light up and flash while cranking.

If no flashing then most likely a bad ignition module.

If it doesn`t light up then bad fuse/coil(try coil +)

 

Check resistance of the coil wire.

 

You don`t have an ignition amplifier.

Thanks, i'm trying this in a minute. But I don't really understand what you are talking about when checking for open winding/bad fuse by "looking for 12v at coil". I'm not sure what you're saying to do there. thanks.

Thanks, i'm trying this in a minute. But I don't really understand what you are talking about when checking for open winding/bad fuse by "looking for 12v at coil". I'm not sure what you're saying to do there. thanks.

 

If you have voltage at coil positive but not at coil negative,the coil is burnt out.

Use a test light, if no meter.

Coil secondary between 7000-14,000 ohms depending.

 

Check the carbon contact inside the disty cap too.

Edited December 16, 201015 yr by naru

thanks a lot. It looks like it is the coil after all. I think. I don't have an OHMS reader but I used a tester light on the coil: Light on, on positive, nothing on negative even when cranking it.

So I got power coming in, and nothing coming out, which from what I understand, makes my coil the culprit.

I think I remember reading somewhere that it matters to get an OEM part for these. Is that true? If so I doubt I want to pay what they charge for them, so would it be better to get a $35 one from the local auto parts or get a used, but OEM one from the u-pull-it?

OEM to be safe.Get Hitachi if your original is Hitachi.

 

There have been some reports of short ignition module life after installation of aftermarket coils apparently because of too low primary resistance.

 

I don`t see any problem w/a properly selected one,but,I would go junkyarding.

Sorry to keep dragging this thread out, but I just wanted to check something real quick before I head out to the u pull its in search of a new coil.

 

I know I need the coil and distributor to match. and I know I have a Hitachi disrtibutor (I double checked the serial number online).

but the coil I pulled out of my car has no numbers or writing of any kind on it. I was just going to get one that looked just like the one I had, but realized maybe somebody had put a crappy after market one in here, and thats why it went out on me?

 

So... is there a quick visual test to see if it is a hitachi coil or not? does anybody have a photo of each by chance?

 

thanks a bunch for all the help