bratlife

Cool thanks, I can't say I totally understand that still haha, but I don't need to, I just need to know WHAT I'm supposed to do, not WHY I'm supposed to do it hahaha, I just gotta get the other side out then, so its all freed up. But if I can't get the wheel bearing sorted in a timely manner non of that really matters unfortunately as I just need a car back on the road asap

Thanks again for the replies, I ended up just putting the outer end of the cv back on the spines with the roll pin in it just to be safe cause I hadn't heard back yet I wanted to test drive it, but its good to know its fine like that. And I just reattached the drivers side axle that I could get the outer off, cause it seemed like that axle is actually fine, it was just the passenger. Problem now is it seems like the wheel bearing is going out on that wheel. I assume I let the cv axle get too bad and it messed up the bearing. I've never done a rear wheel bearing on these, how bad is that? I think I actually have new bearings for it with my parts, but do you need a press or any special tools or tricks or anything?

Sooo, thanks to all your tips, everything has come out pretty easy. I dropped the diff by unbolting the hole mustache as recommended here, and no problem, on the insides coming off the diff and the first axle pulled right off the splines coming out of the wheel, but the other side won't budge. Any tips? I put a torch on it and have been tapping all around it with the mini sledge, but nothing, no movement at all. And you can't really get in there to do anything about it. You can't pry on it or anything ya know. So, couple questions: -Any other tips for freeing the outer end? when the rest of the axle is just hanging there. -And just to clarify, it is fine to drive around with just the splines sticking out of the wheel assembly? the bearings can't get loose or anything right? tried attaching a photo of this, how it looks now, if the photo works, is that cool to drive with it like that? Thanks a bunch for all the help!

Ok thanks, I'm not sure why you would put it in 4WD though? without the rear axles wouldn't you just drive it as normal in front wheel drive like we do 90% of the time? just without the option to shift into 4wd since there wouldn't be any rear axles for that. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. Also, this is on a Loyale, not on a Brat. I only mentioned the Brat as a potential donor of a functioning rear axle, but I was informed above that those are different for these vehicles.

So, just to clarify, all older (pre all wheel drive) 4wd subarus should function just fine as a 2wd (front wheel) car no problem with the rear cv axles removed right? Or am I missing something embarrassingly obvious? 😬

Thanks a bunch for the responses! I have a few questions about some of that, listed below... -So are you saying that all you have to do to remove the rear axles, is drop the diff, punch both roll pins out, and wiggle it out? That would be nice, as I'm a little scared to unbolt the struts, cause I put those Honda fronts on the rear a long time ago (read a tutorial on here about which ones to use and how to do that a long time ago) to beef up the rear suspension. But it was virtually impossible to compress them enough to get them installed and I don't have access to that shop or tools right now and I'm worried I wouldn't be able to get them back on. -I don't think I can rebuild this cv just with grease and a new boot (I've done that on a front cv before) but it's not drivable as is, because the axle is so bad -Is it possible to remove the axle and just drive it as a front wheel drive? I know the fronts hold the whole knuckle in place, but can you just remove the rears? It's got the older tranny still so NOT an AWD. After looking closer, since there’s a roll pin on both sides of the axle, instead of just the inside like the front cv’s have, I assume the outside ends stay in the hub and hood the wheels bearings in place etc, so you can drive it just as a front wheel drive car without the rear axles, right? -No it’s not original engine, I swapped it to an EJ, hence why it’s worth whatever it takes to keep this thing on the road. My brat has over 300k as well haha, that still has an EA81 in it, but I put a new (old) one in there and have swapped two trannys in that one, once to upgrade to the 5 speed dual range Let me know what y'all think about these questions, thanks a bunch! *Edited a couple things after looking under the car again and thinking about it

Hello all, So after decades of Subaru's, I've finally got my first REAR cv axle going out. First things first, is this at least as close to as easy as swapping out the front cv axles? Any good tutorials out there? Pretty sure these have never been swapped out, so that means they've got more than 330k miles on them. This is for a 90 Loyale, but I have an 85 brat that I need to rebuild the motor on, so I could take one of those if it would fit. Should that have the same length and number of splines etc? I've been trying to get a hold of that place in Aurora, Colorado that rebuilds them and sells real good quality remans, maybe called fw enterprises or MWE axles? But seems like they're not around anymore. Are there any other places to get good remaned ones? Thanks a bunch, I really appreciate any thoughts any of y'all have on any of this

Awesome thanks! That’s exactly the info I needed to be confirmed. Although, shouldn’t I be able to use the sealed ones (6207-2RS-C3) just as is directly from McGuire? You’re just saying they would be even MORE robust with an amsoil product? But should still be a quality grease in a quality sealed bearing if they’re from McGuire right?

I’m getting wheel bearings from McGuire bearings and hoping somebody can confirm the part number for me. Looking for the part number for the fronts but if somebody knows a place for rears as well let me know. I was told McGuire won’t have those but should have the fronts. Also, are the inner and outer the same number? 91 loyale with an ea82, push button 4wd.

Thanks but I already ordered one form the dealer. Got a pretty good price on it and its rebuilt by them and sold as "new" even though he said it has technically been rebuilt, so I'm assuming (hoping) that it's pretty legit. It's originally manufactured by Hitachi for Subaru. Seemed like a pretty good bet, so I went with it. Thanks a ton everybody for all the info!

So I found one from a dealership, but sounds like its a remaned Subaru alt. Not sure what that meant. But sound like while it might not be the best option, its pretty good and worth the money? Theres just les and les of these Subarus left in yards and used in general. Especially that might have original parts still in them. I would definitely prefer to have an original and pay my local little family run shop (a place I've had many things like my Toyota alt and dist rebuilt at) to rebuild it, but I can't spend all that much time finding an old original one.

Yes! it did solve the problem. And yes I'm trying to get a new oem one right now, but I only found one left at a dealer. looks like they're not making them anymore. But I didn't have to drop any cash on the cheapo remaned from oreillys. Since it was bought at an oreillys from the previous owner, they swapped it out for free, AND gave me twenty bucks because the part numbers had changed and the new one is twenty bucks cheaper! I have no idea how that all happened, but I wasn't gonna argue about it. Now I'm at least back on the road, and I got twenty bucks toward a real one when I find one.

Thanks so much for all the responses! I just got back and think its all sorted now. After a jump I went back to the same oreillys to return a borrowed tool, and figured since a different kid was working and I had the car there I might as well have it tested in the car while running. This time it said the voltage regulator was bad. Apparently this one came from an oreillys originally and it was swapped out for free. So we'll see tomorrow, but it seems like I'm back on the road at least. Maybe I should still get one from Subaru. I definitely don't have a habit of using parts from places like oreillys, I have a local import parts store where you can get most things at a slightly higher, but in my opinion, very well worth the price. Do the ones from subaru pretty last forever then?

The alternator isn’t brand new. It just seemed like the culprit so I took it to an oreillys to have tested and they said all good.

Ej22. The battery is completely dead. Jumped it and drove for about 45 min. And was dead next morning again. After getting jumped, it’ll run but dash volt gauge starts dropping. The alternator tests good. It’s got a new AGM battery. I’ve replaced the wire to the positive terminal from the alternator with a newer and heavier gauge. I checked every ground I can find. For some reason the alternator just isn’t charging the battery. Anybody have any direction to point me in? Thanks a bunch

Thanks a bunch, and thanks so much for that write up. I’ve been referencing it a bunch. I have a couple questions still though, if you have the time to answer. I have used springs from a Honda, from a yonke. And I bought new struts for a prado/4Runner from your parts numbers. If I use those together, will that give much lift? If so, can I just cut a turn or two off the coil? That way it will remain stiffer and stronger, but without too much lift? Or will that not work since the Toyota struts have less travel? My other question is about the front coils. Are the Kia or Ford tempo preferable? Is there much of a difference between either of them as far as you know? I have a pair from a Kia, like you write about. But I can’t get them off of the Kia struts, so I was thinking maybe I would order a new set. If I order new ones will they be too stiff? And again, would either one be better than the other? Also, does that seem to give the front even a tiny lift? Muchísimas gracias! Si lo prefiere, puedo enviarse preguntas en español, pero me parece que su inglés es mucho mejor que mi español jaja.

Awesome, thanks a bunch for your opinion and tips. With that set-up, do your tires fit inside the wheel wells then? Like the stock ones do? I don't really want to go over 15" wheels so I will still have plenty of sidewall to be able to air down a bit when need be. But 15" steelies from Subaru's would be real easy to come by. Did you get hubs off an xt6? or do the conversion? either way, what was the process like? Thanks a bunch!

I used the search engine, but did't find any discussion of what I am specifically trying to figure out. I currently have 14" Peugeot wheels, but don't like the backspacing. I would like a wheel that sits more like the stock ones, more inside the fenders. I'm thinking of doing the 6 lug swap, just because its getting more and more difficult to find good tires for 14" rims. Which is why I upgraded to the 14's in the first place, because the stock 13's were becoming impossible to find tires worth anything. 1. Does any body know if you get the stock Toyota 6 lug steelies, that I believe are 15x6, they will sit with similar backspacing, and not stick out like the Peugeot's? 2. Or does anybody have any experience with just the steel Peugeot's? Do they have the same backspacing, and stick out the same as the alloys? 3. And if anybody has any of these, or any 4x140 lug pattern for that matter that would sit similar to stock wheels, would they feel like selling them??

Hi there. I am trying to figure out what is best to use for the KYB shocks. I am hoping that you, or others still check this page from time tot time. I have found some of the Honda coil springs form a yonke, but I would prefer a new part for the shock absorbers, due to the nature of how they function. It seems there is no longer availability of the KYB 341232 shock absorbers. I would prefer the KYB brand, and was told that the new part number for them is KG 9025. Does anybody know anything about this? Can anybody confirm the these would be the same, or at least if they would fit? or if there is any difference, like travel length, etc. ? Or, does anybody have any more info or experience using the front shock absorbers from the Nissan 300zx mentioned earlier in this thread? I'm trying to find something that would be more durable and stiffer than stock, but without lifting it too much, just to go easy on those cv axles. I'm thing 1" to 1.5" would be fine but trying to keep it under 2" of lift. I know I could cut the Honda springs down, but am concerned they would bottom out since the Toyota shocks only have about 4" of travel. The Nissan ones have more it sounds like, but if they are like the 2wd Subaru ones, the perch would be higher, giving it more lift, and therefore I would be cutting a lot of the springs down. Hope this kinda makes sense. Thank you in advance for any info you might have!

Hi there. I am trying to figure out what is best to use for the KYB shocks. I am hoping that you, or others still check this page from time tot time. I have found some of the Honda coil springs form a yonke, but I would prefer a new part for the shock absorbers, due to the nature of how they function. It seems there is no longer availability of the KYB 341232 shock absorbers. I would prefer the KYB brand, and was told that the new part number for them is KG 9025. Does anybody know anything about this? Can anybody confirm the these would be the same, or at least if they would fit? or if there is any difference, like travel length, etc. ? Thank you in advance for any info you might have!

Thanks so much for all the tips! Unfortunately when I got to checking it out, I found its been picked apart by some unsavory people in the neighborhood. They took a few things, including the radiator, which of course means the little bolt on fan that goes with the radiator Anybody have a line on parts like these in the Portland Oregon area?

Awesome thanks bunch for the tips! I'm just getting back to town now, so hoping to get a start on it in the next day or so. This list is kinda what I was thinking. To clarify it has been on concrete, even with a gentle slope which is killer. And I agree, always best to leave it with a full tank of fuel, which it wasn't quite, but over half at least. It's gonna need a new battery for sure just to see what else is next from there. But I had a couple specific questions: I figured the fuel would for sure be bad, if it doesn't smell toooo bad, would it hurt anything to just run it? I figured I'd need to drop the tank and empty it, thinking the fuel pump would need swapping too, but is there a chance that's all ok? What about the weber carburetor? I assumed it would need a rebuild kit, is that not for sure? Let me know what you all think about these if you get a chance. Thanks a bunch!

Hi everybody, I’m about to see if I can get my old brat going again. I’ve been outa town for 4 years and it’s day unattended, uncovered (I know, I feel so lame). Where should I start on this process? Can you all help me think of my list of things to check, change, order, replace, etc. Any ideas of possible issues other than the obvious? It’s an 85 with an EA81. I put a Weber on it like a decade ago and swapped out the tranny converting it to the 5 speed dual range. Thanks a ton in advance for all your awesome help!

Thanks a bunch guys! I can't believe I didn't think even think of taking the flywheel off. Haha. It took less time to take it off and tap the bearing out than to go ask questions about it on the computer, haha. Thanks again.

Does anybody know any tricks to pull out a pilot bearing? None of my local parts stores have a bearing puller that is small enough to fit through the middle of the bearing. Its a little less than an inch inside diameter. I tried packing the hole with grease and then taping a bolt the size of the hole with a hammer to push it out with pressure from behind it. But the front seal got pushed off the bearing, so now when I try that all the grease just comes right through the bearing, since its just exposed ball bearings now without a seal to make it air tight. Its on an EA81. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really need to get this tranny in there this weekend and I'm stuck on one little bearing. Thanks a bunch. -Scott