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ongoing EA81 axle troubles


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Mechanic (well regarded but really screwing up in my case) is having really bad luck with axle replacements in my stock 86 BRAT. They are all falling apart, clicking, etc really really quickly. Mechanic is trying, sucking up parts and labor costs to replace each time (5 times over in as many months), but clearly has bad supplier or is missing something.

 

Please suggest the best sources for axles for my 86 BRAT, and provide any additional advice if you have any.

 

Thanks.

 

Very frustrated,

 

Drew

Seattle

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just off the top of my head......

empi, mwe, and axles of ocalla?maybe.......empi are the strongest right now i think.

but i do not think he is to blame , there are several axles remanned improperly.especially by almost every single one of your parts stores you have to choose from.if it were me...i would go empi.i have had a ton of remans from different manufacturers.and a bunnch of junkyard axles.go to the junkyard, or buy some boot kits for about 12$ each end.buy a book.the money you spent at that mechinic could have been negated buy learning yourself.cheers, b

 

 

 

 

Mechanic (well regarded but really screwing up in my case) is having really bad luck with axle replacements in my stock 86 BRAT. They are all falling apart, clicking, etc really really quickly. Mechanic is trying, sucking up parts and labor costs to replace each time (5 times over in as many months), but clearly has bad supplier or is missing something.

 

Please suggest the best sources for axles for my 86 BRAT, and provide any additional advice if you have any.

 

Thanks.

 

Very frustrated,

 

Drew

Seattle

Edited by monstaru
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Forgive me, I don't know your Brat. Is it lifted at all? Is the suspension totally stock? Certain combinations of front end lift parts will eat axles FAST. The best axle made (MWE?) won't last any longer than the ones he is putting in if the suspension geometry is what is eating them up. Are the front hubs and bearings still good?

 

Good Luck

Edited by Crazyeights
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Please don't bump a post that has replies to it. Reply with follow up questions or something but don't just bump it.

 

The suggestions above are all very valid.

 

Missed diagnosis of wheel bearings being bad instead of axles is clearly a possibility here.

I can get you MWE axles if you want to try those. I think they are the best and I have watched them being redone, I guarantee most of the re builders aren't as meticulous as his shop.

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I can get you MWE axles if you want to try those. I think they are the best and I have watched them being redone, I guarantee most of the re builders aren't as meticulous as his shop.

 

Could you or anyone around here (I ask because you have apparently seen the process) explain to me what exactly is replaced and/or "rebuilt" in this process? I have had many axles apart and nearly everything but the shaft itself is a wear item. Now perhaps some of these components wear less than others but *eventually* after a rebuild or two.... the whole shoot'n-match has to go in the round file. I am also skeptical that *not* replacing everything but the shaft will result in an axle which is comparable to a new unit.

 

The cost of the joints and cups and only retaining the axle shaft seems like a huge waste and couldn't possibly be profitable at the prices being asked for these "reman" axles.

 

On the other hand the "new" axles from EMPI, etc may be no better simply because the manufactureing quality of the parts is lower..... depends on where he sources his rebuild components from and how much of the assembly is replaced in the process I suppose. I beleive most of the factory joints are made by NTN bearings.

 

I'm still skeptical of every supplier other than the dealer..... I have personal experience with only the EMPI's - which have so far been fine other than a boot that let go on my EA81 after a couple years.

 

I would just like more in-depth knowledge of what I'm getting with this "rebuild" ya know? That's all.....

 

GD

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He scraps a lot for sure.

 

It isn't what they do to them which I can't describe but better what he doesn't do. He doesn't machine anything beyond where it should be, use small balls in large cages, crappy grease, crap boots, etc.

 

I think the other advantage is he knows the difference in the models and only does Subaru axles and sends the right axle in the first place.

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Please don't bump a post that has replies to it. Reply with follow up questions or something but don't just bump it.

 

The suggestions above are all very valid.

 

Missed diagnosis of wheel bearings being bad instead of axles is clearly a possibility here.

I can get you MWE axles if you want to try those. I think they are the best and I have watched them being redone, I guarantee most of the re builders aren't as meticulous as his shop.

 

Thanks Shawn,

 

I've got the blue MWE axles in the brat now... and one of these is seemingly giving up the ghost. Good to know at least (and a few bonus confidence points gained) that my mechanic knew to go to your source in Colorado.

 

And yes, I was real clear in asking that the bearings get triple checked after all the bad axles came and went, but it won't hurt to ask to have a look again.

 

Drew

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Sure - a few weeks is fine. I'm not going anywhere anytime soon - just got back from out of town for the holidays so I have to play catch-up here anyhow.

 

My best availibility is from 10 AM to 5 PM - all days except Wed/Thur. Those are the woman's days off and she likes to drag me around with her, etc :o

 

I'm in West Linn - just south of Portland proper. PM me and I'll send you my address, etc.

 

I highly suspect a cone-washer/hub fitment failure. Most "mechanics" are not familair with mechanical shaft locking systems as Subaru used on the EA's. Basically he cranks it down tight each time he works on it and then it works loose over a short period of time because of improper fit of the worn out shaft locking collar. If that's the case we can take some pictures and you can get your money back ;).

 

GD

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

I highly suspect a cone-washer/hub fitment failure. Most "mechanics" are not familair with mechanical shaft locking systems as Subaru used on the EA's. Basically he cranks it down tight each time he works on it and then it works loose over a short period of time because of improper fit of the worn out shaft locking collar..

 

GD

 

General,

 

If you dont mind, I wonder if you would share a bit more wisdom:

 

I'm gonna bring her back to mechanic Tuesday. If your suspicions are correct, can you give me some idea of what can I expect needs replacement? Cone washer? Another axle? Worse? Hard to say/depends?

 

Thanks for more of your thoughts on the matter,

 

Drew

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Typically the cone washer has to be replaced - sometimes the hub as well if the splines have been damaged or the conical section where the cone washer seats. You can't effectively file or grind either the cone washer or hub to correct the wear either - the MUST be replaced with undamaged parts. The loss of metal affects the way they interact and will not allow them to grab the axle shaft properly.

 

Rarely the damage will be so severe that the axle has to be replaced as well. That is typically not the case though as the axle splines are much harder than the hub splines.

 

GD

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