fastwagn Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) intermittent, worse when cold. definitely a misfire. new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. new coil for grins. not throwing parts, just needed to be done anyway. next step is clean and adjust tps, but as it goes away when the car gets well into operating temp (20+ minutes), not thinking it's tps related, again, just good to do. any good place to start? have followed the manual's diag tree to it's end, pretty sure it isn't an ecm. if it were an 82, i would clean the optical pickup on the ignition module, are the ea81's prone to ignition module issues? vane air was replaced 3 years ago, and again, no vane air meter code, just 11. thanks! 83/84 turbo brat btw... Edited January 11, 2011 by fastwagn missing info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Code 11 is Ignition Pulse, so it could be the pick up. I had one on a EA81T wagon die on me before, so its entirely possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 thinking i may just get a decent reman distributor with module. worry about the condition of the vacuum solenoid as well. doing the alternator and a few vacuum lines tonight. would still appreciate any other input for diag direction to try next.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Checking fuel pressure and compression are good starting points. Changing the fuel filter is always good. Check for a vacuum leaks around the injectors or intake piping.Look for cracked hoses. Unless your disty has a lot of shaft play or the diaphram is ruptured,I would not worry about it. Edited January 11, 2011 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 compression is good, was around 125ish across. didn't do a leakdown.plugs looked fine when i pulled old ones as well. fuel filter is a little over a year old, but worth changing. i'll get fuel pressure then as well. 42ish at idle ok? i'm used to new gen stuff, or at least my previous ea82t rx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Since you replaced all other parts in the system, I would be leaning toward the distributor or the ignitor. My manuals are unaccessable ATM, but if the problem persists, I can drag them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 thanks! i have access to most of the manuals via alldata, but they tend to be spotty. plus it's reassuring someone has the factory paper for this car. going in today to check it out more. it iced here overnight so all of my scheduled appointments canceled. weird for a subaru shop, but ice is worse than snow i suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 compression is good, was around 125ish across. didn't do a leakdown.plugs looked fine when i pulled old ones as well. fuel filter is a little over a year old, but worth changing. i'll get fuel pressure then as well. 42ish at idle ok? i'm used to new gen stuff, or at least my previous ea82t rx. 26-30 psi at idle. If the pressure is good while driving w/prolonged boost,filter is OK. If the tach doesn`t bounce while misfiring,the ignition primary circuit(including the ignition module) is working properly. EA-81Ts will always show code 11 w/engine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 great info, thanks! no bounce from the tach, so good to know ignition is most likely working correctly. i'll move on to fuel system checks, thanks for the pressures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 had some pressure fluctuations when tested. was above 25, but would randomly drop below 20. so i did a fuel pump and new filter driving in test mode i have gotten code 24 and 34. production date is mid 83, so i am assuming i use the chart for 84 fi? o2 sensor and tps (full throttle switch). o2 sensor is on the way, hoping the ntk i ordered has the correct harness plug. tps prone to fail? or should i disassemble to clean and adjust (worked on my 91 legacy/ej20g) also...i have an intermittent no start. the car has a ************e universal ignition switch some country redneck shadetreed in, i have a new ignition switch to install. i have already done battery, starter and new starter power and ground cables. starts cold first time every time. if you shut off and restart within 10 min, no problem. but if you go more than 10 min...nothin. if i put a jump box on, it will fire, usually... not much to the wiring diagram, so i'm looking for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 84 FSM says 24= Full switch fixed ON or OFF If you didn`t floor the throttle you will get this. Switch is easy to disassemble and clean.I had to. 34=abnormal aspirated air thermosensor signal (temperature sender in the airflow meter is fubared) Should have 4V supply from the ECU on the LgY. Should have measurable resistance to ground w/unplugged(not infinite). Probably the source of your misfire. Your car may be an 83 depending on the exact build date. AFAIK,trouble codes are the same 83-84. The neutral safety switches are notorious for having high resistance contacts that cause starting problems.If it starts easily by jumping the solenoid terminal to the large positive on the back of the starter w/a screwdriver,NSS,ignition switch and intervening wiring are suspect. If it starts by tapping on the starter,likely worn brushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 thanks for the help naru! i was getting 24 and 32, i show 32 as being an o2 fault, but would be interested to see what the fsm says. there is one at one of the dealers i worked for, i may need to see about a loan... car is running better but starting worse since the fuel pump install. guessing the nss is getting pretty high resistance when warm and getting flaky. ordere that an o2 sensor. may look into running a key on heated o2 given i can find one that reads the same v range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 O2 sensors don't read voltage, they produce voltage, so as long as you find one that fits, most of them just do 0-5V, but I would double check to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 finally got the car to set a code 14 fairly consistently when it's hesitating at it's worst. cleaned up a small break in one of the wires. wondering if these are prone to internal corrosion and if it's worth rerunning some of the wires. it's definitely intermittent, and i was unable to catch any high resistance or open issues when i checked last. can't find a new vane air meter new, and definitely don't trust them used. was going to clean and lube similar to what toyota guys do, but no real way to get it apart. besides, it isnt setting a sticking code 21, just the 14. i have looked at the split second 3.0" maf kit and wideband, just 789 is a big expense...want to weigh my options first. i do like the idea of ditching the vam... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 IIRC,people have opened them for cleaning,I haven`t. You can monitor airflow meter output while driving by hooking a voltmeter to "check connector II" under the dash.It is red w/6 pins.Airflow meter output is on the YR wire. Seems unlikely that your car would need a double airflow meter replacement. I would be looking at the grounds and wiring harness back to the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 yeah it's looking like time to break out the fluke and at least half a saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tahuyahick Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Some of this is new to me, I just got an '84 turbo 2-door coupe with issues. I never had a computer in a Subaru before, so the test connectors & LED stuff is looming large in the near future! By the way, I'm dealing with too much fuel pressure. 60 when my book says max of 30. The engine starts but dies as soon as I touch the gas. None of the parts stores I tried have this regulator (westbay/napa, c.r.a.p.). I called a dealer in Gorst and they don't have that anymore. So it looks like I'm stuck with rebuilding the one I have. Either that or adapt some kind of aftermarket regulator. I hope there aren't too many more 'unavailable' parts like this on the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 hi, i wondered why no one has said to check out the coolent temp sensor, especially the connector to it, they are a very common issue on ea-82's turbo and non turbo. anyway i guess the ea-81T has one and i know those cause trouble if the ecm is not getting a proper signal from it. i don't know if it shows a code for it but check it , and the connections , if you can find the specs , see if that signal is getting to the computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Some of this is new to me, I just got an '84 turbo 2-door coupe with issues. I never had a computer in a Subaru before, so the test connectors & LED stuff is looming large in the near future! By the way, I'm dealing with too much fuel pressure. 60 when my book says max of 30. The engine starts but dies as soon as I touch the gas. None of the parts stores I tried have this regulator (westbay/napa, c.r.a.p.). I called a dealer in Gorst and they don't have that anymore. So it looks like I'm stuck with rebuilding the one I have. Either that or adapt some kind of aftermarket regulator. I hope there aren't too many more 'unavailable' parts like this on the car! Make sure the return line from the regulator to the tank is open before condemning the reg. Car-part.com is your friend. Plenty of unique semi-hard to find parts on an ea-81t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tahuyahick Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Make sure the return line from the regulator to the tank is open before condemning the reg. Car-part.com is your friend. Plenty of unique semi-hard to find parts on an ea-81t. Good point, and I should've mentioned that I dis-connected the return line and ran it into a catch can, then started the car and re-checked the pressure gauge while running. There was no difference, still running at 60 plus & the engine died as soon as I tried to open the throttle. The car-part site only has an used regulator pulled at a wrecking yard. I'll wait until I completely ruin the one I have, then give them a try. At the moment I have the bottom section of my regulator cut off, which is where the spring is. The valve and diaphram are still crimped into place in the upper section. I only cut the first layer of steel around the edge. I'm halfway done building a three piece clamp to put the bottom back on. I just need to make a few more cuts on the lathe, then drill & tap a bunch of 10/32 holes for a set of stainless cap-screws. Then I can test the original spring to see if cleaning it makes it work. If not, then I'll cut the spring slightly and re-test. The way I'm building the clamp, I'll be able to change the spring out with the entire assembly bolted to the engine. Hopefully the diaphram doesn't get a hole in it from all the funny goings-on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagn Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) the great thing about that entire part of the fuel system can be remade using "universal" or even "hot rod" parts. i am currently running a standard walbro external 255 hv/p, stock regulator appears happy. if it gets unhappy, i'll swap it for a cheapo universal adjustable without the rising rate vacuum line. car-part rules, but junkyards are still junkyards. 90% of what we get is either wrong app or unusable, and we get 2-3 parts/week. not usually an issue for us, because of volume we can return or swap in every case. doesn't hurt my office manager used to work for lkq for 3.5 years. she likes to bust balls and crack skulls. sometimes they aren't as kindly to one time or off the street customers. just be prepared. the brat at least is full of bad supercessions and weird cross-over and specific parts. took 4 tries to get the correct ignition switch for the turbo tilt brat...parts guy broke out the old skool and went to the book for the second to last part in country. got the last t-top seal as well the good news is, after chasing drivability issues for months, the switch fixed all of my woes. it was a pta compared to either my rx and especially my legacy and up. i'd rather knock out "tamper proof" snap-off bolts than try to start the 4 bolts into the tilt head. i cleaned and lubed the shaft bearings, and they squeaked for a week. eventually they quieted down, thank goodness as i was not impressed with idea of repeating the process anytime soon. love the brand new subaru keys, going to match my locks soon. "mechanic" had decided instead of taking the mechanical switch assembly to a locksmith, or getting a new switch from subaru, he would remove the electrical internals and put them onto a hardware store lawn mower ignition switch. the ecm, and starter, were getting high resistance. result was hot no crank/no start. cold rough running due to ecm load higher at cold start/cold run and poor ecm power supply. but it would intermittently hiccup and hesitate, regardless of temp. now it runs smooth as silk, and has become a pretty reliable shop truck to replace a finnicky (esp cold weather) e85 syclone. even getting into 22-23 around town (and that includes toting ej engines and parts around, the headrest mounts make perfect mig/tig bottle mounts), bit less on the highway, but she will still go 90... i am relieved it is fixed. i replaced the standard tune up items (dist, cap, rotor, plugs and wires), resealed the front of the engine and replaced the oil pump, fluid swaps. new starter, neutral switch, checked all of my vam wiring, new battery, new cables, new alternator (my gauge still reads low, around 9 when alternator charging 14...). cleaned and checked coolant temp sensor and wiring. was pricing $700 maf conversions and worried i'd be doing some harness work. but well worth all of the work. now onto fixing leaks or pulling carpet, fix/replace the seats, replace rusted spots...never ends, which is fine, i bore easily. thanks again for all of the insight and advice, it was very helpful along the way. always helpful, knowledgable folks. love the usmb.. Edited March 15, 2011 by fastwagn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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