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'92 Loyale sedan


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My father recently got a '92 Loyale Sedan, fwd, 5spd. We've done enough to it, already needed some help, and there is more to do, that I'm starting a thread to document it's progress and ask questions. It's only showing 233,000. The 2nd and 3rd times it was driven the crank pulley came off, it's now torqued to spec with a little Loc-Tite and has been fine. The next thing is shocks, which should be here soon, as there is NO damping left. The muffler is completely gone, so something will need to made so the exhaust goes out the back instead of dumping at the rear wheel.

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If there is no rust, it will last many more miles and years with good care.

 

Since we live in Oklahoma we should be able to wear it out before it rusts:D

 

 

Looks in good shape, as for not having a muffler, just get a section of 1-7/8" or 2" pipe and run it so it feeds out the rear of the car. Gotta admit, it sounds great without the muffler.

 

We think it sounds pretty good too, but we have some snazzier exhaust options (pics to come). TheLoyale, it was your thread on the TrashWagon that inspired this one.

 

I forgot to mention earlier that the CEL is always on, but varies between flashing and solid, how does one read the codes?

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When the light on the dash is on (While running) removed the kick plate right under the steering column (Part of the Fuse box cover) then look for the LED on front of the ECU, it will be flashing a code. I have the flash codes in my Chilton in a Haynes. Best to get either of those books just to give you some info.

 

My bet is, its an O2 sensor. Or something for the EGR circuit. If it runs and starts fine, its something simple like that.

 

As for Trashwagon, MilesFox is one to thank for that. As he came up with the idea back in the day.

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The exhaust now exits at the rear of the car, and sounds quite good.

 

There was about 3 inches of tubing left after the muffler flange, so we just cut the flange off and made a pipe that went back from there. After test fitting several exhaust options to make sure that we got both the aesthetics and the sound right, it was decided that there was only one way to go.

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The exhaust now exits at the rear of the car, and sounds quite good.

 

There was about 3 inches of tubing left after the muffler flange, so we just cut the flange off and made a pipe that went back from there. After test fitting several exhaust options to make sure that we got both the aesthetics and the sound right, it was decided that there was only one way to go.

 

What the...? Now I have seen everything! Just don't back into anything ;)

 

Wondering how it sounds?

 

Cheers!

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It still sounds pretty good, the fishtail is just a straight pipe. :headbang:

 

We are in the middle of the stut replacement, all the old ones are off and one new one is back on. The front struts are Gabriels' and have very nice looking shiny black paint on them. What we didn't realize until we had one almost all the way on was that the paint is .015" thick. And that .015" is in a place where there isn't space for it! Has anyone else had this problem?

We're taking the paint of the bottom of the other one, which makes it only .005" thicker than the stock ones.

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Hello. Congrats on your new Roo. I have basically the same car just a year older. I was posting about your CEL. I have had mine throw a couple codes and the CEL stayed on solid. The only time that I saw it blink was when the test connectors above the brake booster by the fuel filter were plugged together. There are two White connectors with one wire and two Green connector with one wire. Neither one of them should be hooked together unless you are running diagnostics. Thought I would throw it out there. Maybe it'll help. Hope you are as happy with yours as I am with mine. Good Day to you. Don

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  • 1 month later...

donnieru - Thanks for the service manual link, we've used it.

 

We've been enjoying this car, we had quite a bit of snow earlier this year, so we threw on a set of almost new studded tires on the front, and this thing was unstoppable! We have put valve cover gaskets, an o2 sensor, and new plugs in it. The plugs helped, and it doesn't leak anymore, but it still has a CEL, time to look up the codes.

 

However, there is a new question: can this car be towed with a towbar for long distances? Specifically, will the transmission be oiled properly just be pulled in neutral? and would we want to disconnect the battery so that leaving the key on doesn't kill the battery?

 

Would anybody have a stock radio that they want to sell?

The car came with no radio, and the only one we have that will fit is an analog am/fm cassette, with wires for two speakers and a common ground!

So if anybody has an old stock radio laying around it would be appreciated.

 

Thanks for all the help, this site has been a great resource:banana:

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For those wondering, the next things planned for this car are new shifter bushings, and installing a set of foglights and a set of driving lights. The lights are mostly waiting until we figure out how to mount them. The car may even get a radio! :eek: but it would probably never be used, it just sounds so good straight-piped. :grin:

It might even get those decals for the side like the rally Imprezas have.

Edited by soobenthusiast
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What is the ID of the rear springs?

And how stiff of a spring would be right for this car?

Would front springs from a Honda Civic or Accord be too much for this car?

 

This needs some different springs in the rear so it can better handle 5 people in the car plus a trunk full of heavy stuff (PAP trips) and such. The last time we had 5 people and about 200-300 lbs in the trunk it was squatting so much that the tires would rub on a big bump :eek: . it is also now sitting about an inch lower than the last pictures, even after it was relieved of the weight. Just for reference, from top to bottom of the rear spring is just 7 inches right now, and that's with nothing in it! So it's time to shop for something a little stiffer. Any help would be appreciated!

 

What it looks like right now

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Edited by soobenthusiast
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How would that affect the ride height and load capacity?

 

This is known as the "Poor Mans Lift" it will make the car sit higher, and I think the springs are of the same rate but will be stiffer because they are longer springs (The strut won't compress as much)

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Hmm.....sounds like something to look for at PAP.

I'm assuming that an Accord coilover kit would work as well, somthing like this.

If anything the ride height in the back is okay right now, but the load capacity is not. the accord springs would probably be okay though, as I doubt the back would be any higher than the front is now.

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