soobenthusiast

My left front door on a 93 Legacy is really struggling to open from the inside, I'm suspecting it's in the actual latch mechanism. Do 95-99 Legacy latches work, or am I stuck looking for a 1st gen donor car? They are unfortunately quite rare here in MI....

This was GOLD. If I hold the key in the start position while pushing the push-button for the starter, it starts right up perfectly! I love how much simpler fuel injection becomes as soon as I learn the logic it was programmed with. Now I'm stoked; I've already gotten 33mpg in this situation, the future looks bright! The one with two wires on the right rear side of the intake manifold. I had the code for the temp sensor, and now I don't I had thought this as well, but there was a slight whine as if fuel was flowing. I know the Bosch CIS system allows fuel through in this situation, so it didn't seem too strange to me. But of course this system is quite different, and clearly my mental models were incorrect. Obviously I'd like to be able to start my car with 1 hand rather than 2...Is the start signal to the computer also coming from the ignition switch? Right on, my knock sensor certainly has some cracks. I'll order one soon!

I can't remember it ever stalling out, after it's started everything works extremely well. Pulled the codes and got: 12 - Starter Switch - I've already converted to a push-button, so I'm not concerned about that 22 - Knock Sensor 32 - Oxygen Sensor 35 - Canister Purge Solenoid This car sat for a couple years before I got it, and this problem appeared within the first several hundred miles I put on it.

I have a 93 Legacy (auto) that doesn't start well cold. I've already replaced the coolant temperature sensor, and cleaned the IAC. Neither really made a difference. The usual starting attempts go like this. When I first crank it cold, it may fire once or twice, but doesn't really do anything. Short pause, press throttle to floor for a second or two, release and crank again. will usually fire a few times but not start. Another Short pause, press throttle to floor for a second or two, release and crank again. Usually starts almost normally this time. When the car is warm/driven recently it's usually fine, even if it's been 8 hours since it ran. When outside temps are colder it's much harder to start. What should I check next?

From what I remember when I had Bluehost, they allow many sites on one account (They might have even said it was unlimited?). Perhaps we can find someone else who's hosting it can piggyback on? I would offer, but also recently let my Bluehost site/hosting die..

I have a solid lifter EA81. While replacing my leaky valve covers I decided to adjust the valves. After setting them to .010 & .014 they were even louder than before! The big question to me, why are the valve specs so loose? On my aircooled cars and motorcycles valve clearances were always in the .004-.008 range, and theoretically those motors have a lot more expansion to account for. The amount of valve clatter at spec is almost embarrassing... Has anyone ever tried setting the valves in the .008-.010 range?

Wanted to provide an update on this. I was converting my car from a Carter-Weber to Hitachi 2-barrel, so I didn't have all the factory parts. I've tuned it with a wideband so I have some idea what's going on. I essentially ended up with this setup, but my lines are simply Tee'd together instead of using a VCV. I made some .035" orifices by melting plastic vacuum tees and using a small metal rod. It works fairly well, and I don't have any doohickeys that can fail. Long term I'll probably tweak the orifice size a bit more, but it's fairly good, for a carb. I do have a lean flat spot just off idle, which may be related to these extra things I've removed. I also haven't gotten my choke to work well without the Thermo Valve. If I don't hook up the choke pulloff at all it runs super rich for a few minutes, or I have no choke... Hope this provides another useful data point for others trying to follow this path!

I went through the same thing last weekend, here's a thread with pics of my current setup. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159628-carter-to-hitachi-swapbut-not-yet-running-well/ After trying several combinations of plugs and orifices on my high speed and bowl vent lines, the high end is still a bit erratic and cuts out a bit more than I would like. I was also trying to convert a feedback carb into non-feedback, so it was a tricky setup anyways. The new Hitachi also had some issues with the choke working properly, so my cold starts are also not better... What year is your car? Even the Haynes manual has some very nice vacuum diagrams

Played with it some more today. Got the low end surging and dead spot taken care of by plugging the low speed vent, apparently my ~.030 orifice was still flowing too much air. Below is a picture of my current setup. Still cuts out around 3-4k rpm under moderate to hard acceleration. Up next is to try plugging and opening the high speed vent, if that doesn't work I'll play with the bowl vent some more as well. If none of these options work, then Weber it is!

My 83 GL wagon came with the single barrel Carter/Weber. Overall this carb worked well but the choke and accelerator pump had both died, so I figured it was time for a different setup. I bought a used Hitachi manifold from an 82; it came with a dusty Hitachi. The throttle shafts still seemed tight, so I decided to try rebuilding & simplifying the Hitachi setup before just going to a Weber. I set up this carb as close as I could to IHScout54's setup in this thread. I ended up a bit different since I was coming from a single barrel feedback setup. -I don't have an unbroken thermo-valve, so my choke pulloff is routed through one of many vacuum solenoids. I think I will just route this straight to the air cleaner instead. -My Hi & Low speed air bleeds are Tee'd together and run into the air cleaner. I don't have any orifices, so I used a lighter to close the tee and push a ~.050" hole in it as my 'orifice'. -My bowl vent is currently not plugged or hooked up to anything, thought that would be fine for now since it's shown just routing to the air cleaner anyways. As soon as I got gas to the carb the Hitachi fired right up! Ran very nicely with choke & high idle, but started to run really crappy as soon as the choke and high idle were coming off. I currently have a stumble off idle, as well as an idle speed that's inconsistent & oscillating. Even cruising around slowly in 1st & 2nd the car surges very noticeably. Up next will be trying some sort of restriction in the line for the bowl vent, and adjusting the idle mixture. I currently have the choke, idle solenoid, & bowl vent solenoid plugged into the Carter/Weber ECM, but none of the other sensors & control ports for the ECM are currently hooked up. Could that be a problem?

A shot from a recent road trip

It was running within a few months of picking it up, but certainly not a driver. After a bit more work it has become a proper driver. It recently accomplished a 900 mile trip with no real problems.

I picked up this wagon a few years ago, it had been sitting in the same spot for ~20 years.

Update - I found that rain gutter mounts are definitely the best way to go on these cars. Yakima 1A towers are a slightly tighter fit and more finicky to fit than Thule 300, but both work equally well.

Haha, my parents just drove my car through Springfield MO a few weeks ago! There may be an opportunity to swing by in July, I'll keep you posted! Yeah, the rain gutter option looks good, but I still have the factory chrome trim on my rain gutters; need to look at those a bit closer I suppose

I'm trying to figure out the best way to get a roof rack on my 83 GL wagon. I actually have the factory roof rack & rails, but would like something a bit more solid and lockable for bike carrying purposes. Is there any way to mount Thule or Yakima cross bars to the factory rail slots in the roof? If that doesn't work, are the rain gutter or Q towers a sturdier way to mount a rack?

After letting the metering rod soak in penetrant for a day, then heating it up with a torch, I was able to coax the rod out of its seat. After assembly it ran fairly well, a little hard to start and the accelerator pump is weak, but otherwise it runs fine!

I pulled the carb again today. I found out that the metering rod is solidly stuck in it's seat, not allowing fuel through the main jet.

The electric fuel pump is dead; I'm currently fueling it from a motorcycle tank held by an assistant. I have checked, I have fuel all the way to the carb.

I have an '83 GL wagon with a Carter-Weber. It has been sitting for ~20 years, so I pulled the carb and cleaned it out. I did not have a manual, so I certainly could have missed something, but I cleaned as much as I could find. After reinstalling everything, the carb is not flowing fuel. It will fire a few times, then die. If I squirt gas directly into the carb it runs fine. The two options would seem to be that a jet or two is still plugged, or the bowl is not filling with fuel.. Could anyone help me understand what all the solenoids do? I also saw mention of a metering rod, what is this/what does it do? Basically, I'm trying to understand the possible causes of no fuel.

This is pretty cool! What are you doing to deal with the extra weight in the back? I've been wanting to build another Type IV and put it in a bug, but the extra weight seems to require a rear engine mount.

I got to play with it some today. I put a few gallons in the tank and was still getting no fuel, so I decided to try an auxiliary tank. I used an old motorcycle tank elevated at about roof height, and ran the fuel line right into the same line it would normally recieve fuel from. After the bowl filled with fuel gas would start dripping out of the charcoal canister. Anyways, it would fire and run for a couple seconds, but it seems that the accelerator pump and the main(s) are the only circuits with any sign of life. I'll start by cleaning the carb and see what happens. Where would be a good place to jump the fuel pump? Also, on Rockauto and such I only see a carb kit for a 2 barrel Hitachi; yet my carb looks to be a single barrel. Am I missing something? If it helps I believe I have the "feedback" carb that has way too many wires and vacuum lines.

I plan to leave it mostly stock and just drive it. It really needs some miles put on it, it's just a baby. I may lower it a little and SPFI swap it, but I want to drive it stock for a while first. There is also some rocker rust, but there is no urgency as I don't live in salt country.

Got it all washed and vacuumed, looking better. I'm currently doing some transmission work on my dd, so this has been going a little slow.

Yeah, it is the right side door lock cylinder. We have very few Subarus out here, so it may take a while to find one in a junkyard.