Hey guys, I've been thinking a long time about going solid axle. I've faced the fact that a Subaru with stock suspension isn't going to come close to a SAS'd Yota.

 

I'd love a Yota, but I want something different.

 

So this is what I'm thinking: I'd like to not have to place my car on a frame. But somehow build something to hold the axles/leafs. I basically want to use everything from a jeep wrangler yj. They use Dana 35 rears, and Dana 30 fronts.

 

So here is what I dont understand: Do I have to use the yj transfercase? And can that mount to my D/R 5-speed? And with whatever transfercase I use, I'm gonna have to get some custom drivelines made, I know that.

 

I don't want to hear that it's too hard, or that I shouldn't waste my time. I just want information/suggestions on what needs to be done.

jeep axles are expensive to repair but a good axle non the less the transfercase from a jeep is very unreliable they have bad input shafts for the front and dana 30 and 35s are good but not past a 32 inch tire 33s are very hard on the axles and they tend to bend and twist under pressure they will need gusseting past a 32 there are alot of up grades but you will find that gearing is in the 3.08 and 3.55 gear ratio 4.10s were in the 4 clylinder maodels and hard to find. go yota they have 4.10 1986 and under and parts are cheap for them and stock can handle up to a 35 and they have better clearance and transfercases can ber modded for different gearing to more options and upgrades and really kind of the way to keep things cheap and they are very strong

I'm not sure, I see tons of jeeps rolling around with 35's and stock axles. I though the solid axle Yota stuff was tough to find, being as in 1st gen 4runners and 2nd gen p/u they were only made for 1985 (I think). I just know that dana's are tough and reliable axles, I just haven't heard too much about factory Yota stuff.

it is well known that the dana 30 and 35 axles are weak sauce.

those jeeps you see everyday do not get used.

and if they are getting "wheeled", that does not mean real wheeling.

if you are going to take this step i suggest you start researching more if you don't "know " much about toy stuff.

it is everywhere, aftermarket is abound.you need to research more.

 

toyota axles with longfield axles and hubs, properrly trussed ,run 39.5 tires successfully......

you need a subframe .putting your car onto another frame is meaningless.any redneck can do that.build your own frame, and amazingly enough the stock spring width of toy axles is well within acceptable ranges of being hung properly

 

i had a toyota frame up under a brat once...here is an album

http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/monstaru/death%20buggy%20build/

 

cheers

it is well known that the dana 30 and 35 axles are weak sauce.

those jeeps you see everyday do not get used.

and if they are getting "wheeled", that does not mean real wheeling.

if you are going to take this step i suggest you start researching more if you don't "know " much about toy stuff.

it is everywhere, aftermarket is abound.you need to research more.

 

That is actually the purpose of this thread; to gain information/a starting point to research. I understand that you know a lot in this area, so feel free to give me some more!

 

As for the frame, I'm not looking to put a complete truck frame under my Subaru body, but to do something more along the lines of what McBrat did.

amazingly enough the stock spring width of toy axles is well within acceptable ranges of being hung properly

 

This is what I was most curious about. I would have gone with yj stuff because of the short wheelbase, I wasn't aware that Toyota stuff could be hung properly

it can work width wise, and you'll be putting the axles where you want anyway...so really length doesn't matter.the natural wheelbases are super close anyway.....

if you are stuck on using leaf springs then you will want to keep the heavy frame and cut it in hald and figure out a way to mount each section to the existing unibody. with leafs there will be a lot more stress put on the unibody as it flexes.

 

the soob frame rails narrow as they get closer to the front, so you have to watch how you do the steering for the SA front...

 

if you use a divorced t-case, you can use any engine/trans combo.

 

determine first what type/difficulty of wheeling you want to do.

a guy would end up doing more work trying to cut the frame down, being as it is not boxed in, than to just build a frame.

steering can be made easy by going hydro......

once again, i don't think most people think this through.i know i have started this project like 3 times now.each time getting further.

until finally deciding that going from the ground up around a size model would be easier.........and what i truly wanted.

 

to keep the height down you almost HAVE to cut too much sheet metal for my taste, weell, for any desirable size tire that is.....

 

anyways, cheers

keep us posted

a guy would end up doing more work trying to cut the frame down, being as it is not boxed in, than to just build a frame.

steering can be made easy by going hydro......once again, i don't think most people think this through.i know i have started this project like 3 times now.each time getting further.

until finally deciding that going from the ground up around a size model would be easier.........and what i truly wanted.

 

to keep the height down you almost HAVE to cut too much sheet metal for my taste, weell, for any desirable size tire that is.....

 

anyways, cheers

 

more good notes...

 

and you may need to lengthen the wheel base to fit the tires you want as well. the ones I just got are 36's but actually 36.3" diameter, so just under normal 37" tires. and 37's are about as big as I can go with my set-up unless I add a lot more lift. I'm at 105" wheel base...