987687 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) From looking at the FSM, and guides online, the timing belt on a 2.2 looks really easy... But I'm having an issue. From pictures it appears that there's an arrow on the crank sprocket to indicate TDC, and there's a mark you're supposed to use for the timing belt. Mine seems to be MISSING that timing mark. The ej25 I have party apart also doesn't have the timing mark. Just the arrow. The manual shows the "timing belt guide" but only for MT models, the 25, and I guess the ej22 I'm working on are from autos. So do not have this. What's the deal? From pictures the timing mark is 6 teeth to the left from the arrow, could I just count 6 teeth over and make the timing mark? What am I missing here? Here's a nice pic from rs25 of what I'm talking about, mine doesn't have the white mark, just the arrow. And that appears to me an MT because it has the guide thing. http://dave.oc7.org/images/2005.09.09.rs.motor.rebuild/images/DSC_8893.jpg If my logic is right, I can put a mark 6 to the left of the TDC arrow, which would rotate the crank 90deg. Put the crank mark on the timing belt there, and put the cam marks on the cam sprockets on the lines etched into the pully. And it will all be right. Just wanna confirm. EDIT: I should probably also note, it's a 1997 ej22. So it's interference... I don't wanna mess it up! Edited February 8, 2011 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 NO ARROWS!!! Dots and dashes only. If you search around here there are some good writeups. Don't know if they salvaged any from endwrench for this procedure. A favorite of mine is for the 2.5 HG job search for "skipnospam" and it should have a link to a comcast link. It's for a DOHC but atleast you'll know to IGNORE THE ARROWS!!! Look fo rthe hask mark at the back of the splined piece on the end of the crank and match it up to the block back by the crank sensor. I psint them with white mail polish. There is also a small dot on the outside of that splined piece that is later covered by the harmonic balancer. NO ARROWS!!! IGNORE THEM!!! Don't concern yourself so much with the belt as much as making sure the crank marks and cam sprocket marks are dead on. Manuals and auto's timing belt procedure is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Just looked at your pic. Your engine won't have that little metal cover just above the crank. You'll be able to see the hash mark back by the crank sensor as I mentioned. The mark on the front of the splined piece will likely be just a dot on yours. The cam sprockets often have arrows - IGNORE THEM if they are there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Just looked at your pic. Your engine won't have that little metal cover just above the crank. You'll be able to see the hash mark back by the crank sensor as I mentioned. The mark on the front of the splined piece will likely be just a dot on yours. The cam sprockets often have arrows - IGNORE THEM if they are there. Thanks so much! So the crank mark I'm looking for is on the thing that gives the CAS it's signal? When I get the belt on, I'll post a pic on here to verify I did it right. Might be a while... The threads stripped out of the tensioner bracket... So I'm looking for a thread insert for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 There will be a hash mark on the block. There will also be a hash mark on a little flange on the back of that cogged pulley(and that hash mark will align with the dot on the front of that cogged pulley). Match up the hash mark on the flange of the pulley with the hash mark on the block. Then the crank is done. Then you gotta do the cam sprockets and IGNORE THE ARROWS!! Just look for hash marks again on the sprockets and the timing cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 So I found the mark on the tone ring thing for the CAS. It was completely obscured by years of grime... but once I started cleaning it up, HEY! there it was. I have the tensioner bracket at a machine shop now, I'll have it back tomorrow with a thread insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 If you had your location (a real location - not something cute like "up the creek") a member may have had an extra bracket that you could have picked up. Could have been simpler and cheaper. Personally I often don't respond to folks that don't have a location. As long as you ignore arrows and look for dots and dashes you'll be fine. Don't forget to torque the crank bolt down real well!! I hope you're doing it all. Crank and cam seals, idlers, WP, etc while you're in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 If you had your location (a real location - not something cute like "up the creek") a member may have had an extra bracket that you could have picked up. Could have been simpler and cheaper. Personally I often don't respond to folks that don't have a location. As long as you ignore arrows and look for dots and dashes you'll be fine. Don't forget to torque the crank bolt down real well!! I hope you're doing it all. Crank and cam seals, idlers, WP, etc while you're in there. I'm doing it all right.The blown ej25 in the car this ej22 is destined for didn't have the crank torqued down enough. Made a real mess!! And that wasn't even the worst of the damage the last "mechanic" did to the engine. I have my location set in my control panel thing, don't know why it's not showing. I'm in Maine. I probably could have gotten one from someone, but there's a machine 3 miles down the road from me, and they only want $10 or something for it. EDIT: maybe my location shows now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Still no location showing. We are still having Db issues. I have fixed those cranks. Removed engine, welded, dremel the notch, new key, new harmonic balancer, etc. Amazing what damage can be done by the unknowing. I don't look forward to fixing those. I buy the car figuring on putting a new engine in, if I can fix it then I'm ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) if the pic isn't clear enough, put the crank sprocket key way in the 6 oclock position. i had this and another pic of the ej25 timing marks in my signature for a day, but i decided it was too much for every post. Edited February 8, 2011 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Here's what I done. Does it look good? Crank: Pass side: Driver's side: Haven't pulled the pin yet, but if you guys say it looks good, I'll let her go! Thanks for all the help and advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Get other comments. When you pull the pin in the tensioner I think you'll be o.k. That crank splined piece should get pulled a smidge right when the slack gets taken up. Double check after you pull the pin. I usually then rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions then look at the marks again. The belt marks won't line up but you don't care as long as all 3 of the timing marks line up. I'm not likely to be online more this evening. Tax man tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I don't even use belt markings when I do a timing job. Some people think they help though. Place the belt on the crank sprocket first, then use a wrench to turn the cam clockwise a tooth-width or so when you place the belt on the cam sprockets. Once it's on, turn the cam back to it's original position to pull the slack out of the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 I don't even use belt markings when I do a timing job. Some people think they help though. Place the belt on the crank sprocket first, then use a wrench to turn the cam clockwise a tooth-width or so when you place the belt on the cam sprockets. Once it's on, turn the cam back to it's original position to pull the slack out of the belt. But how do you know that it's lined up right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 But how do you know that it's lined up right? I ASSUME he's meaning the marks on the belt. They really aren't needed. Helpful but not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 ok.. still hoping the way I did it is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) You line up the cams and crank at their proper timing positions first. I've always made marks on the sprockets and covers before removing the old belt. That way you know where they should be when the new belt is on, rather than guessing on which scribe mark in the face of the sprocket is the right mark for timing. If the old belt broke, you just get to guess. :-p When the engine turns over a few times, the marks on the belt won't line up anymore anyway, so you need a solid reference point to verify timing. But all the good timing belt info out there for Subaru TB jobs takes out the guess work. You have the right sprocket marks lined up pretty much where they should be, just be sure to keep all the slack in the belt where the tensioner is in the area between the drivers side cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. If it's not the tooth count between the sprockets will be wrong and the timing will be off when you pull the pin on the tensioner. Edited February 9, 2011 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 It starts up and runs, so I guess I did it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Congratulations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Good work. Timing belts are terrifying the first time, then you finish and are like "Oh. That wasn't so bad." Nice job to keep you busy for a few hours, feed your confidence as a home mechanic and keep the motor healthy. Good way to save yourself like $600 too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Your engine won't have that little metal cover just above the crank. That freaked me out because the FSM for my model and year said I should of had the metal cover above the crank sprocket.. Did they do away with it or something because I did not have one too and I had a MT.. And what good does it do anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 It keeps the timing belt from popping off the crank when the cars roll around on the trucks from the factory. They're shipped in gear and, since the engine isn't running, the timing belt tensioner backs off and the belt can jump when they roll around. This leads to either the cars running like hell immediately when they get delivered or worse...the engine blows at first crank. Solution? $0.32 metal plate to keep it from jumping off. Voila! Fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Good work. Timing belts are terrifying the first time, then you finish and are like "Oh. That wasn't so bad." Hahahaha TRU DAT!! If it wasn't an interference engine I wouldn't have been so worried about it... But the engine runs, idles, and pulls nice. So I guess I did it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 It keeps the timing belt from popping off the crank when the cars roll around on the trucks from the factory. They're shipped in gear and, since the engine isn't running, the timing belt tensioner backs off and the belt can jump when they roll around. This leads to either the cars running like hell immediately when they get delivered or worse...the engine blows at first crank. Solution? $0.32 metal plate to keep it from jumping off. Voila! Fixed. hmm interesting never thought of it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 That is interesting, and makes sense why it would only come on the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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