I'm trying to do the front brake pads on my '83 Subaru Brat.

 

 

I feel like I recently did front brakes on either my other Brat or my friend's '89 Loyale I helped him find, but I guess not and I can't seem to compress the piston back in to allow room for fresh brake pads.

 

This is the weirdest design, with front-parking-brake that cable-squeezes the front caliper.

How to compress piston? I can't seem to turn to the left or the right, and I can't seem to compress with a C-clamp.

 

The pads on my drivers side were worn exactly like |\

one edge of each pad was starting to rub metal, and the other edge still had 1/4" of pad left.

I was getting a bad front-wheel shake as soon as I let off heavy throttle or braked lightly.

They need to be turned clockwise into the caliper. You can buy a tool at the parts store or get a kit from a better supplier. I use the kit ans it a breeze.

It also sounds like the caliper is sticking. When you have the caliper seperated put some grease on the pi.

Edited April 16, 201114 yr by Turbone

thank you sir, I'll get in the morning, and I'll possibly be able to weld up a tool real quick to help me turn those

I just use some needle-nose pliers, push and turn at the same time...

I just use some needle-nose pliers, push and turn at the same time...

 

 

Duckbills also work and fit in the piston notch a bit better.

Of course It would be a great sunny day everyone is out doing car stuff, and people were borrowing all 5 loan-a-tools the local autozone had, all day.

I got a tool from checker-O'riley tonight, and finished the brake job tonight. Should be perfect now.

Glad to hear. Did you get that little cube that fits on your ratchet extention? Those are cheap and work fine for me.

I have the little cube thing. if the piston is difficult to turn, grab it with channel pliers and give it a turn to free it up, and then use the cube/pliers/what have you.

 

any method will work so long as you do not damage the rubber boots.

Well, I'm still getting a front-wheel shake, even after the new pads and after the calipers being all greased up on the slides.

I guess I gotta consider the seals on the pistons of both calipers.

Maybe have to end up swapping brake calipers.

I used the needle nose method and it took 30 secs. Thanks for the info so i didnt have to run to the parts store and rent a tool!

Front wheel shake isn't usually a pad problem,

it's usually a

brake rotor(s) warped,

bad wheel bearing(s), or

loose/worn steering tie rod(s)

problem

 

or combinations of...

 

Considering the shape of your pads, I'd say the 2nd one.

Well, I'm still getting a front-wheel shake, even after the new pads and after the calipers being all greased up on the slides.

I guess I gotta consider the seals on the pistons of both calipers.

Maybe have to end up swapping brake calipers.

 

 

 Hi,

 i f you turned the pistons back into the caliper,,   did you make sure that you ended up with the notches lined up so the little nubs on the back side of the pads fit in the piston notches ??

 i have seen a lot of times the piston notches did not get aligned to match the pad nub .  not so good things happen then.    it is important to have this correct so the pad can actually sit flat against the piston, otherwise  it pushes against a nub only and the pad flexes etc..  

  it is easy to miss doing this part after the issues of this odd system. 

Resurrected thread... this is 2 1/2 years old.