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Dragging caliper

Featured Replies

Has anyone seen this before sometimes it happens and sometimes not?

Has anyone seen this before sometimes it happens and sometimes not?

 

If it's a rear one, they like to get rusty inside and freeze up. I had one on my legacy that was intermittent-ish.

Sometimes it was bad, sometimes it wasn't quite so bad. I flushed the rust out, and it was fine after that.

 

 

If it's a front one, the bottom slide pin in the caliper bracket is probably frozen up. If it's not too bad, you can heat the bracket with an oxy/ace torch and get it freed up.

  • Author

:slobber:

If it's a rear one, they like to get rusty inside and freeze up. I had one on my legacy that was intermittent-ish.

Sometimes it was bad, sometimes it wasn't quite so bad. I flushed the rust out, and it was fine after that.

 

 

If it's a front one, the bottom slide pin in the caliper bracket is probably frozen up. If it's not too bad, you can heat the bracket with an oxy/ace torch and get it freed up.

its the pax front I guess when the last owner did the brakes they did not grease the slider pin.. Hopfully I can save it. Im sure the brake fluid is no good now.. Might as well do the pads and rotors next week.

At about 60 K KM I had both rear pads replaced as they were wearing on an angle.

 

Apparently without cleaning and anti-seaze compound they bed that way.

 

The front pads had about 50% left still but I replaced them anyway.

 

PS I didn't machine the rotors just changed pads and every thing was fine.

 

This is the first time with a car I have neither had to have the rotors turned or replaced.

If the pads are wearing on angles, or one is wearing significantly faster than the other. Something is stuck.

  • Author

I think the rotor might be toast now.. not sure.. but it's odd say you are driving it will shake and shake.. thump thump thump then it smooths out until you hit the brakes again.. odd that it started up all of a sudden..

 

I hate to do it but Monday I will check if I can get the damn pin out..

I had a sticky one on the front, got in there and took out the pads and had the wife work the brake while I watched, moved the piston out pressed it back in, repeated this several times to unstick the piston, been good ever since.................G

  • Author

Looking at the pad now.. yep one sided wear.. however I can't really tel.. when I removed the pins they kinda slide out kind of easy.. the pistons look pretty tired.. and lucky for me I forgot to bring the C-clamp...

thats a drag. i had a one side wear on my pads. after reading this thread i took the caliper off last night and cleaned and regreased the pin. just to be safe. it hadnt worn the new shoes i had put on it a few months ago. so i guess it was only a temporary sticking of some sort. the cup went out fine last night. but never did retract. but isnt that the way it is suppose to do on these with a pin instead of bolted down? or is the caliper done?

  • Author

I had to stop home to get the c-clamp but the pictures from my phone are uploading now..

 

IMAG0515-1.jpg

IMAG0511-1.jpg

IMAG0513-1.jpg

 

I don't understand what you mean by "pin" all calipers use a sliding pin.. the pistons you push back in when you have new pads.. and don't make a mistake of pumping the brakes unless you are rebuilding them..

Is the wedge shaped one the inside or outside? If the wedge shaped one is on the caliper side, one of the pistons is frozen up.

 

Looking at the rust, I'd believe it..

  • Author

It's on the caliper side

 

They are cheap rump roast pads I'm dumping them when I do the pads and rotors and I guess piston replacement followed by bleeding the system out.

  • Author

So what should I do? replace the piston and the other parts that go along with it or the caliper?

So what should I do? replace the piston and the other parts that go along with it or the caliper?

 

If I were you I'd remove all the calipers (one at a time) and check the condition of the pistons, seals, slides and pad clips. Clean 'em all up, reassemble, grease and check for smooth operation. Don't need to replace calipers 'til you see that one (or more) are bad. Afterwards you'll need to bleed the brake lines of course.

 

Good luck.

I didn't read it all (but I will later!) Seems to be pretty thorough so yeah, I'd do what they say.

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