what thoughts out there on the following compression test 1993 ea82"

 

3-145

1-135, 130, 132

 

4-125, 138

2-155

Edited July 14, 201114 yr by bheinen74

looks decent, you're almost within 10% which is o.k.. i'd do it a second time, maybe in reverse order or with a different gauge and see what you get due to the variation.

 

full current available (battery fully charged)?

throttle propped open to allow unrestricted air flow?

were all plugs removed when doing it for each cylinder or did you remove them as you went?

 

usually doesn't make much difference but that generally keeps things efficient and comparable.

all plugs removed.

snap-on guage

throttle propped some

 

battery, probably could charge it up again.

 

I think the problem on this car is something in distributor. runs pretty lousy, plug wire for cylinder 3 when on the cap, makes a "pop, pop, pop" sound near the distributor. unplug #3, and no pop pop pop..

 

timing is on.

 

bought the car in this condition.

 

wont talk about how the plugs looked, not putting these back in it.

Edited July 12, 201114 yr by bheinen74

compression isn't causing that. bad sound and plugs makes it sound like it could be an easy fix:banana:

 

cap/rotor is probably warn or hosed.

 

i even had a brand new XT6 rotor fail on me in less than a year once. pulled the cap and there it was, all shredded up for no reason. perfectly running car, distributor, no cross threaded bolt or anything - just blew up one day while driving and ran great with once fixed.

I cant believe you bought an auto though. Ive got a used cap and rotor that worked good when i took off the car. Replacement parts didnt fix what i thought was the problem, but you can have them if you want them. Oh snap there in my subaru.

sometimes autos arent bad, no clutch to replace, etc. plus they are good for torque. i need a known good distributor next up and i will install new ngk plugs...had a few autolites and a few champions in this pos..

Dennis has the 92 that i gave him. Might work.

seriously - before swappy the entire disty i would change the cap & rotor and new plug wires first - see if you have the same issues...

Okay more digging found:

distributor connector wiring connector:

 

harness side - distr side

black . . black

red . . red

GRN . . WHITE

WHITE . . GRN

 

thats doesnt seem right with how i know sub wiring to be...anyone got one of these pos cars to see if yours is that way?

Edited July 14, 201114 yr by bheinen74

its right

thanks for the reply.

installed new NGK plugs, got second distributor, installed that dizzy, still same issue, pop-pop=pop when the plug wire to cylinder 3 is on the cap. so no change.

 

just ordered a new cap....

 

if that doesnt do it, then only thing i can think of is plug wires.

 

anymore thoughts. the red turd still awaits a good running day.

 

i only sweat a little putting the plugs and dizzy in, temp is 95 heat index 110, likely to have this another 6 days of temps.

 

oh here is the red turd

Edited July 18, 201114 yr by bheinen74

I've had vehicles do the snap sound before and been able to see the high tension leak in the dark. Try looking with it running at night. And I want to thank you for sending us that heat. It was beutifull last weekend. Mid 80's with low humidity. This weekend 101 with high humidity. And I need to get the drive train back in the daughters car. YeeHaa