When lifting it tends to tilt forward right? I'm sure I can find something to hook around it

When lifting it tends to tilt forward right? I'm sure I can find something to hook around it

 

A lot of that depends on how you hook onto it. If you use a chain to attach to the motor, you can hook the engine lift hook onto a certain link and get the right "balance" But again, it really isn't that big of a deal, you can move the motor around pretty easily by hand

No need for a leveler anyway. These motors are relatively light. There are a couple spots on the motor that are actually meant for lifting points. I personally wouldn't lift from the intake manifold, but that's just me

 

 

I Yeah I don't want to lift from that area too I think someone posted where the lifting points were before I'd have to check a little later.. head is pounding..

 

I also know some people say to take the intake manifold off before you take it out and some people lift by it...

 

 

So anyone know about the shins for the exhaust valves? More like how do you measure and find out the replacement shim you need?

 

Is it subtracting the gap and the current installed shim?

A lot of that depends on how you hook onto it. If you use a chain to attach to the motor, you can hook the engine lift hook onto a certain link and get the right "balance" But again, it really isn't that big of a deal, you can move the motor around pretty easily by hand

 

 

 

Hopefully my late uncle has something in the basement he was a linesmen

I was looking in the haynes manual last night, now people say the shims falls right out but haynes says you need a tool to push down on the bucket to remove the shim but turning it?

 

Also anyone that has the haynes manual can someone tell me what's on page 2A-7 & 2A-8 since someone ripped it out when i got the book new.

 

The way haynes says to find the new shim is a little confusing.. they say

 

Exhaust valve S= (V +T) - 0.010 inch

 

T = Thickness of the old shim

V = Valve clearance measured

S = Thickness of the new shim

The lower nut on the starter (or bolt for 99+) can be a pain though usually is no trouble with a deep socket and 6" extension. Just get far enough back to clear the body of the starter.

 

The biggest pain is the driver's side lower bell-housing nut. They are often REDICULOUSLY tight and are directly in front of the axle. Often I have to use 24" of extension, a wobbly (or wobbly socket), reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" and a 1/2" breaker bar to get them loose.

 

GD

 

 

I was reading over at 2.5RS and they have a topic on removing the engine but someone made a good point, and I figure I would ask you.. would removing the driver's axle off the transmission stub help any? If everything is still the same one is a nut and the other is a bolt?

I was looking in the haynes manual last night, now people say the shims falls right out but haynes says you need a tool to push down on the bucket to remove the shim but turning it?

 

Also anyone that has the haynes manual can someone tell me what's on page 2A-7 & 2A-8 since someone ripped it out when i got the book new.

 

The way haynes says to find the new shim is a little confusing.. they say

 

Exhaust valve S= (V +T) - 0.010 inch

 

T = Thickness of the old shim

V = Valve clearance measured

S = Thickness of the new shim

 

that makes perfect sense to me

 

add actual measured clearance and the old shim together

 

then subtract the 0.01 in (recommended clearance?) to get the required thickness of the new shim...

yeah I slept on it and woke up this morning and I understand now, I forgot to pick up a micrometer last time I was out

How much does a thermostat run at the dealer?

would removing the driver's axle off the transmission stub help any? If everything is still the same one is a nut and the other is a bolt?

yes it helps a little bit. give it a try first. if it's not rust-welded in place it'll come out with normal tools and a tiny bit of patience.

 

levelers are helpful but not necessary. more helpful on installing than removing so you can get the perfect angle and line everything up.

 

thermostats are $8-$12 at the dealer.

I think someone said a wobble socket helps too but I will check when I get to that point.. I gotta go out and buy the chain this morning..

i've done them without wobble sockets more than with, but they do help. you know what you're doing, you'll figure it out.

I'm I'm sure it will be easy.. speaking of bolts has anyone ever used Koil?

 

having said that it seems like all these timing belt kits all come from CA lol

Time for the rock auto order... New plug wires, front oxygen sensor, gaskets came around $168

 

Decent kit.. at least it has markings on the timing belt..

 

Next week I will get the oxygen sensor and spark plug wires.. the shipping costs where getting just too high coming from 3 different locations..

 

I did buy a new flywheel.

Edited August 5, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

seems good

 

 

nice they include a thermostat gasket.

21 lbs

 

Edited August 6, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

for those that ordered the amazon KSB04 clutch kit is the shipping time really 5-8 days?

 

might be a good time to try amazon prime..

I just wrapped up this job. Valve adj is not hard at all. Label everything! With the heads off measure valve clearance. Use a good micrometer and measure the installed shim. My ships still had the size marked on them. Subtract or add the diff. The Haynes manual has a listing of shims with subaru numbers. Order your shims put in new shims and double check cleara-ce. Not hard. i had two tight exh valves and one sloppy intake.

yeah I was reading over your thread and I'm sure it will be easy enough when I have the motor in front of me to look at.

 

I printed out the whole FSM so I should be well covered on specs and what to seal.. only thing that has me a tad confused is the cam caps the arrows they point to is it just a single thin line horizontal top and bottom?

That got me too. As with any engine, arrows always point to the engine front. Shims pop out of bucket with a pick or tweezers. If your shims are still marked, write numbers down THEN wipe them off. Those numbers wipe right off. Most of my intake were .009 one was .010. The exhaust were all right on except for two, they were both .008. I couldn't believe the cap bolts took such little torque 90 in lbs. They are! I still tweaked the inside bolts a little more. It was alot of measuring, checking and double checking, but not hard. Hell, if you exhaust is measuring .008. Spec calls for .010. And the shim is a .025. Then you need a .023. Simple.

Oh man what I men to say/add in was the sealant for the caps they say not to add to much to block the oil passageways. in the FSM it's depicted as this

 

 

unless the line is showing going straight then going around the hole

As I understand, and did, the sealer goes outside the cap. I put a blob down in that valley where the cap meets the valve cover. That's where the old stuff was.

Ah ok, Wed my valve cover gasket and slave cylinder and intake manifold gaskets should be here.

 

I'm right now trying to find a torque wrench that measures in in pounds I think the lowest one of mine goes down to is 5 Ft pounds. besides I don't think most Tq wrenches are really that on point at a low setting like that.

Interesting today I could not get the clutch to slip much at all today only a tiny bit when going WOT in 3rd it slipped for about a second..

 

I hope all that massive slipping is not what I think it is.. as far as it being the seal on the transmission since I don't want to put too much into it.

hey the valve clearance for the EJ25D is:

 

Intake: 0.20

Exhaust: 0.25

 

Is that right?

 

That number above sounds very large.. I'm looking in my FSM under On car services under engine specifications.

 

 

*edit

 

haha forget it forgot that's in mm

Edited August 8, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4