Hi all,

I've lurked here for years but first time posting. Experiencing torque bind in my 96 Impreza (2.2 4EAT). 240k miles but transmission was replaced with used unit not long before I bought the car - PO says it's got around 100k.

 

When I bought the car it had no torque bind at all - drove it home and put it up on stands to replace a wheel bearing and struts. Between sourcing parts and work it wound up in the air approx 1 month. When we finally got it back together parking brake was frozen - was eventually able to free it by applying throttle. Not sure if that could have caused any damage but suppose it's possible as immediately upon first test drive torque bind was evident.

 

Symptoms - inside rear wheel "chugs" during tight turns, which is classic torque bind from what I've read. Two weird aspects to it - sometimes rear end will give a slight wiggle starting from a standing stop in a straight line, and under heavy throttle it basically disappears. For example, if I punch it around a right hand turn the car will just go. Do the same thing slowly and can definitely feel some bind. This may also be common but not that I've seen.

 

What I've already checked - no TCU errors; AT Temp light illuminates approx 2 seconds during startup, then off - no flashing. If the FWD fuse is installed all torque bind issues disappear so I think my Duty C is fine.

 

Bind occurs on both the original crappy tires it came with and my new set of rallx tires so I'm pretty sure it's not a wheel diameter issue.

 

So that would lead me to think that a fluid flush is needed, but the fluid seems brand new so not sure that helps me any. Maybe add some LSD additive? Not really sure what my next steps should be - any other ideas?

You say the fluid "seems" new - but have you drained the pan contents and really given it a good look?

 

The fact that the FWD fuse makes the symtoms go away means that the issue is mechanical with the clutch pack. The first step is always a drain and fill - usually two to three of them. ATF is cheap so you might as well try. 90% of the torque bind out there is fixed with a drain/fill.

 

GD

You say the fluid "seems" new - but have you drained the pan contents and really given it a good look?

 

The fact that the FWD fuse makes the symtoms go away means that the issue is mechanical with the clutch pack. The first step is always a drain and fill - usually two to three of them. ATF is cheap so you might as well try. 90% of the torque bind out there is fixed with a drain/fill.

 

GD

 

What he said.

don't add anything except AFT. no other additives. there is no indication that they will help torque bind. especially an additive that makes it grab better.

 

the bind could be caused by ''gummed'' up clutch plates. you want to ''clean'' them. change the fluid. do a drain and fill. then drive it around. maybe drive it backwards in tight circles. (someone suggested this a long time ago, it is not often repeated.)

 

if there was a fluid designed to ''clean'' your trans i might try that, but trans fluid does a pretty good job of that in the first place.

You know...that's a good point! Shocks/struts may play an important role in how the 4EAT transmission responds/operates (and also wears).

 

I had almost the exact same problem in the '96 OB I used to own. I found that fluid changes/flushes and additives alleviate the problem.

 

One possible solution that I never had the guts to try was using one of the real cleaning solvents. (e.g. TransTune)

 

One user on this forum reported a major positive difference when using one of those products.

 

I can attest that proper additives/fluids often provide a low-cost solution and may be necessary as part of 'preventative maintenance' procedures.

 

--Damien

 

One possible solution that I never had the guts to try was using one of the real cleaning solvents. (e.g. TransTune)

 

 

--Damien

 

 

NEVER EVER EVEVR EVER use a cleaner or flush in a transmission, esepcially one with high mileage on it.

NEVER EVER EVEVR EVER use a cleaner or flush in a transmission, esepcially one with high mileage on it.

 

+1

 

I believe the thread is he talking about is the one with the delayed forward engagement. They used TransX, which is NOT a cleaner. No cleaning/flushing is EVER recommended with the 4EAT as it is known to cause MORE problems when you flush it than simply leaving it alone.

 

Drain and fill 3 times is what is recommended, and if you have certain symptoms, then they recommended adding transx on the last fill. Not a trans flush or any other additives/clearners. Drain and fill is vastly different than a flush.

+1

 

I believe the thread is he talking about is the one with the delayed forward engagement.

 

Right...but I think there were some binding issues as well...could be a different sort of failure.

 

 

Something additional, perhaps, for Mr. Engineer to think about.

Thanks everyone - looks like I'll be doing a few flushes and see what I get. I have no other symptoms at all - the transmission engages quickly and shifts great. Wish me luck...