timfreddo Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hi All, Just after a bit of help with my subie. 92 EJ22 auto. Check engine light is on. Idling pretty roughly, so took it to local Subaru mech to have a look. They said faulty knock sensor and headgasket, swaybar links were gone. Not sure if the head gaset is causing the idling problem though... No Oil in coolant or vice versa, but does leak oil from one of the gaskets when its warm and running. Just did a compression test, and all cylinders are running between 151 and 153 lbs/sqIn. Check engine light gave me code 22 (knock sensor) so i replaced the old (cracked) one, for a brand newbie. But Even after I reset the Computer both ways, 12hours without batt connected then run for a little while without touching throttle etc... and tried the ignition on, shift through gears, turn on, run at more than 30km/h for more than 1 min and wait for even CEL flashes. ButIts still giving me code 22, and once, but not since it gave me a 43. I looked up the code list i found on this site, and the lists said for my model there is no 43, but for the older model, code 43 is fuel injection problem... I'm jut trying to get the beast running well, so I can sell it and move overseas. Any help with what you think could be wrong with it would be much appreciated. Sorry my post is all over the place, and spelling is bad Cheers, Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Lets start with some basics. When was the last time this had a tune up and the timing belt changed. Do a tune up as fouled plugs and tired wires can cause this issue too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 cheers for reply. Last timing belt at 122,000km, it now has 152,000km. Last spark plugs at 148000. last tune up at 139,000km unknown last leads replacement, but the writing is still visable and they dont look too old... Do you think it would be worth changing leads and plugs as a first thing to do. Leads are a little pricey, was tring to keep costs to a minimum due to planned trip overseas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 The leads should have a year written in white on them, you might be suprised to find they are original. NGK leads work well and are about $50 online, shipping to NZ may be a problem though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 I'm in Aus, checked prices on leads. only $60 Will change leads and plugs and hopefully that'll help the problem..... cheers, help much apreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 OK...... New Leads, new spark plugs... Same problem. Drives fine when above 1100rpm, but when stopped at lights etc the engine slowly drops the revs to about 6-700rpm, then picks back up to around 1300rpm, before dropping back down again. the whole drop down, pick up takes arond 2-3 sec per cycle. Repeat the process for the duration of the stop, and then its fine again when you start moving.... Any hints? Cheers, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Clean out the idle air control motor with carb cleaner. You may have to take it off the intake manifold so you can really get in there and blast all the gick out. Make sure the valve in it can move freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 Ok, so Took off Air Idle Control Valve, (came off pretty easy so maybe this has been a problem before with a previous owner...) Cleaned it up with carby cleaner, even though it was pretty clean already, valve span fine etc... put it all back together and still have the problem. I'ts only when car is idling. ECU still only giving me knock sensor code. Do you think the new knock sensor i baught could be ************e? Do you think the bad head gaskets could be causing the problem, even though compression on all cylinders is 151-153 lbs/sq-In? Anything else i can try? Cheers, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Need to know wet and dry numbers on the compression test. I do not see a bad HG on those numbers, i see a jumped timing belt or a tired engine. hrmmmm Did you replace the idlers and tensioners with the timing belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 Whats wet and dry? Receipt from timing belt service says... "new belt, 2x new camseals, 1x new crankshaft seal. Inspect pulley wheels and helicoiled tensioner back on." Timing belt replaced at 122,000 kms, now its done 154,000 date done 16th Feb 2010. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Dry first is a straight comp test. Wet is the same thing with oil squirted in the cylinders. It tells you if the rings are tired (compression will go up). The belt was replaced at 75,000 miles ish. There is only 122Km on a 1992 car? A bad HG will have one cylinder lower then the other ones, or at least one side lower then the other. I don't like the helicoil of the tensioner, it got stripped. I am going with the timing being off. Why did he say the HG was bad? Are you loosing oil or coolant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 yeah now there is 154,000kms. so only 32,000kms since timing belt, and i'm assuming idler pulleys/tensioners were replaced/checked. still pretty good for a 92. Thaught it was a bargain at the time.. Can you tell me if there is a mark on the metal of the cam pulley wheels? looks like the last person to change the timing belt went abit overboard on the whiteout marker. (hopefully the photo works...) The two whiteout blots did seem to be a little off, but it would be good to know if i can scrape the whiteout off without loosing the mark on the metal to investigate more accurately. Head gasket.. Mech just said they were blown, and gave me a huge bill if i wanted it fixed. there is no oil in coolant, or vise versa. there is a tiny oil leak from im assuming (from what i can see from under the car) the rear of each head gasket, but i'm not chewing through oil by any means... If the head gasket was that bad, it would affect compression test results, wouldnt it..??? Have yet to do wet comp test, how much oil and what procedure would you recommend? Another forum mentioned this might be the problem... http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19809 I'm not an electrical guy, so this flys way over my head. help appreciated with the too if possible? Once again, thankyou for your advice and help. It's much appreciated by all who use this forum. Cheers, Tim... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 So I found this.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=997387#post997387 pretty helpful. Realised i had the knock sensor on at the wrong angle, and i had massivly over tightened it. so i pulled it out, had a look. there is a little gap like the one you can see in the last photo, maybe not that big. Put the sensor on again in a better angle, lightly tightened and it did seem to improve my idle slightly.... not much though. So I'm wondering if you think it would be worth buying another $70 knock sensor and trying that? cheers, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbennett2u Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 I would try to find a knock sensor out of a junkyard that isnt cracked. It will cost much less than $70 I would assume. Chances are if it isnt visually cracked it will be operational, and I would trust an OEM subaru one over a auto parts store one. Not sure if it will fix your problem but might as well eliminate any potential problems you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Get a used knock sensor and i am doubting a blown HG, totally doubting it. Start with the knock sensor. Comp test: Remove the fuel pump fuse and let the car run till it stalls. All plugs removed Fully charged battery Wide open throttle plate Crank each cylinder for or five times Record reading do four times. Wet with an old pump type oil can (improvise) put some oil in a cylinder. Repeat above. The oil will spread out but if you can find an aerosol oil that would be better. Record numbers If the numbers are higher you have tired rings, if not, it is the vlaves. If the numbers are within 10% of each other it is not the HG, especially on both of them. He may have meant tired valves, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Passenger side intake manifold gasket seems to be the problem. Mech friend of mine found it. Guess its always worth going back to basics Anyone done a manifold gasket before? any hiccups. Cheers for the help, Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessekrs123 Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Test out the knock sensor connector. Make sure that there isn't any exposed wire hitting any metal. From my experience, the only reason an OBDI Subaru will throw a code is because of the following: - Plug is disconnected - Sensor is not properly grounded - Sensor is not receiving required voltage - Sensor itself is so bad it is unable to communicate with the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.