Ok. I just did an emergency outback build for my friend whos car was totaled when someone t-boned him...ruptured spleen..life flight...couple days in hospital. So the car I built him was a basket case project 96 OBW that I bought in the spring from someone who didn't finish their winter project. I replaced the engine with a 96-98 2.2 that was in the trunk when I bought the car. I resealed the engine and did timing belt,water pump, idlers etc.

These are the problems:

-car has a what seems to be a dead miss in cyl 3 (CEL Flashing and lots o shaking)

-major torqubind

To correct the miss is replaced #3 wire with new looking used ones ( did this 2x), swapped out the coil pack, swapped out plug (did this 2x) and swapped out injector. I did a compression test on #1 and #3( both 175), tested for pulse at #1&3 injector plugs( both were pulsing the same). sprayed starting fluid around intake to look for vacuum leak. ( no change in idle)

Any thoughts/things I'm missing?

The torque bind stopped when I put in the FWD fuse...I cant remember what it means when the fuse cures the issue.

FWD fuse cures torque bind = Duty-C is working. = flush tranny multiple times and possibly add Trans-X.

 

Try replacing the ignitor - see if that cures the cylinder miss.

 

GD

FWD fuse cures torque bind = Duty-C is working. = flush tranny multiple times and possibly add Trans-X.

 

Try replacing the ignitor - see if that cures the cylinder miss.

 

GD

 

+1

 

Do the drain and fill 3 times routine (search for it if you are not familiar) and that might help the torque bind... If it doesn't, find a trans out of a JY with a warranty and slap that in.

if this is a rush job, get it done rather than get it right, you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft (leave in the front section of drive shaft ). this will make it FWD. but fluid change may cure it.

Sorry - my cat walked on the keyboard..... not kidding.

 

She actually must have run a search and then posted " '1 "..... this probably means something.

 

GD

Edited October 19, 201114 yr by GeneralDisorder

I don't know how you're checking for pulse at the injector plugs, but if you're using a DMM or a "Noid" light, remember that both of those don't really draw any current. A high resistance in the wiring leading to the injector can result in a blinking noid light or a good reading on a dmm, but won't pass enough current to open an injector which is something 10-20 ohms.

 

Plug a spare loose injector into the harness and make sure you can hear/feel it clicking.

 

Also, if the ECM detects uncontrolled idle speed, it kills the output to one cylinder's injector as a safety measure. Do you have any CELS for the IAC?

 

good luck,

Nathan