SoobDood05 Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Hi all, i have had my 1990 loyale EA82 (Sohc i think?..) for about 3 months, at first it never got hot, but after a while the engine started to ping under load, even worse on hot days and it makes the engine get hot, about 3/4 on the gauge, i just kept driving it, cause i have to find work, now the engine is ticking louder and the pinging is a lil worse, i know its cause by Pre-detination in the combustion chamber right? Incorrect grade of fuel Etc, but its all stock. i would like to know how to fix the problem, if you know it would be greatly appreciated, as i cannot afford another car:-\, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Check the timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 ... it makes the engine get hot, about 3/4 on the gauge ... now the engine is ticking louder ... That sounds like your Engine is Singin' the T.O.D. (Tick of Death) Song... also it sounds like it might have a Worn Head Gasket. The Hydro Lifters' Noise Known as T.O.D. is Usually due to an Oil Pump Seal's Failure (The Mickey-Mouse Shaped Seal trend to be Sucked and lets Air to go inside Oil) Also the Overheating is Usually Related to Bad Head Gaskets. But There's a Chance that the T.O.D. Could be due to Oil with too much Sludge & Dirt, so it doesn't Flow as it is intended. So I Kindly Suggest you to do a Complete Engine internals' Cleansing, using Seafoam, Then Replace your Subie's Old Oil and Filter; also I Suggest you to do a Radiator Flush & Clean up too. Do a Search on the Forums for More info, as all this has been Already posted in the past. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 I am going to borrow a timing light here soon, the only codes its thowing are 34 and 35, EGR solenoid, and Purge solenoid valve, would they cause the pinging?, And as Loyale 2.7 Turbo said i will flush the radiator also, ive been meaning too, it doesent overheat, just gets hot if i dont drive it like a grampa lol, or dont drive up hills, i just turn on the heater, no coolant in oil, dont burn a drop of oil either. i should probably check the knock sensor also. might use some premium gas after i run low too. i dont want to have to replace head gaskets, or the engine. any other input would be great, thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennyt Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Sounds like overheating to me. Make sure you haven't lost all of your coolant (the temp gauge will lie to you if you have). Does your heater work? My temp gauge reads 1/4 when warmed up. The only time I've ever seen 3/4 was when I lost coolant, the car overheated and was pinging like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 yeah i drive to the store and pack to buy a part for it and its gets pretty hot, im guna flush the radiator tomorrow put a new t-stat gasket in cause its leaking, buy a new EGR solenoid, maybe seafoam, and see if that will fix it, fingers crossed:slobber: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Flushed the radiator yesterday, the car still gets hot but not as fast, and not as hot(but still hot) as it did before, and replaced leakey t-stat housing gasket with an oem replacement and doesent leak, t-stat is faced right position torwards rad, theres some difference, i ordered a new EGR vaccum solenoid, and radiator cap, hopefully this can solve it cause i dont want to replace the radiator with a cheap plastic one as thats all i have money for, i wonder if it would be worth getting a used Aluminum one?(pick n pull) any input is appreciated thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Since you have some results from your rad flush, it sounds like you might have partially cleared a blockage. Do you notice the temp increase up hills more than on the flats, or is it more at idle? Take note of the conditions that make the car hot if you can and post them back here. I would get it running cool, then worry about the pinging after that. Don't bother with a questionable rad cap, doing so will only leave you wondering if it works or not. You aren't losing any coolant, are you? When the car is cold pop the rad cap to check the level... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwtech Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 my 91 loyale wagon has the same issue, pinging under load, lifters tick once in a while, ive had the car 2 years this month and put almost 50,000 miles on it, lately when on the freeway going 70 the temp gauge creeps up almost to the hot mark, this is during the day with temperatures hovering around 90 outside, it runs great when its cool out, I think i need to unclog my cooling system as well, just havent gotten around to it, working on POS mopar crap all day makes you not wanna do anything after work lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 The car runs cool when idle or in neutral at stoplights or coasting, but when at highway speeds, accelerating quickly, or uphill driving the gauge goes up, ive replaced the rad cap, today also the EGR vacuum solenoid came in put it in not sure if it will solve the pinging but it ran great after cleaning out the breather hoses from the intake to the drivers side head (the one ticking badly), they were almost clogged with carbon buildup, i also ordered the temp sending unit (one by thermostat) just to rule it out as a problem. will update after i replace it tomorrow and go for a ride to see how hot it gets, thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 my 91 loyale wagon has the same issue, pinging under load, lifters tick once in a while, ive had the car 2 years this month and put almost 50,000 miles on it, lately when on the freeway going 70 the temp gauge creeps up almost to the hot mark, this is during the day with temperatures hovering around 90 outside, it runs great when its cool out, I think i need to unclog my cooling system as well, just havent gotten around to it, working on POS mopar crap all day makes you not wanna do anything after work lol Pinging can be caused by a number of things(From my Haynes Manual) Incorrect Ignition timing Incorrect grade of fuel Carburetor or fuel injection system faulty Worn or damaged sparks plugs, plug wires, Or distributor components EGR valve not functioning Vacuum leak. Overheating Trouble shoot Water pump drivebelt bad or out of adjustment Radiator core blocked or grille restricted bad thermostat broken cooling fan bad rad cap incorrect ignition timing faulty cooling fan thermoswitch or fan clutch i am currently checking mine for these problems also, hope this helps nwtech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 I have read through the haynes manual about the water pump, i am thinking it may be going bad, the gasket on the left side of it has a tiny leak, and there is a very small amount of water/coolant coming out by one of the bolts on the top of the pump, it would explain the symptoms right? the pump can sustain the cooling capacity of the engine while at idle coasting in neutral but once it is put on full force(highway speeds/Hard acceleration) it starts to not work as well/properly there fore the engine starts to heat up right? i am new to all of this and i hope someone can agree with me on this so i dont replace it when it doesent need to be:lol:, thanks all feedback needed asap:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Went ahead and replaced that water pump today, (was leaking from weep hole and bearing was going out) also once i dissasembled everything i found out the previous owner did the timing belts, they are still fresh:banana: it was cool outside by the time i got done, the tempurature gauge never reached the half mark, i will update tomorrow when its hot to see if the problem still persists, and if anyone is wondering about the Pinging sound/Spark knock Etc, it seems to have subsided with the EGR fully functioning now, will update to tell if overheating problem is solved or not, Cheers all, have a good night:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Went ahead and replaced that water pump today, (was leaking from weep hole and bearing was going out) If this is the condition of your old water pump I would suggest that you seriously consider taking the radiator to a radiator specialist and have them do a channel clean or "rod the radiator" to clean out all the cooling channels. The L series radiator can apparently be 50% blocked before you run into trouble. I've been caught out with this once before, it cost me a newly rebuilt engine To really hit this one home get the radiator sorted then put fresh coolant in there Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Wow thanks for the advice! i would not be able to afford a rebuilt engine at the moment, so i think thats a good idea, we have a radiator shop in town, once i can scrape up the cash i will have them Rod the radiator or a channel clean as you said, the previous owner has dented parts the cooling fins with wrenches and such and both radiator hoses get Equally hot but the radiator itself stays cool so i think it does need to have blockages cleared. i appreciate the input. -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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