First check to make sure there is reistance at the sensor (check them both). For function this sensor creates an AC voltage. The sensor will creat a pulse at regular intervals.

 

The cam one pulses I-II-I-III.

The crank shaft opne is harder to describe but there should be 7 pulses at various time intervals. They wont be all evenly spaced.

 

You may want to get a haynes manual at this point to help out.

i would swap in the cam sensor form the other engine. (is this a swap thread, i can't remember.) or at least check to make sure it is plugged in.

So what pins do I test for those two sensors? I got a cam and crank sensor from the junkyard and it still didn't do anything.

 

Am I looking for a voltage drop from 12V to 2V? Or am I looking for a drop/jump from 2V down to around .1V?

 

 

And is there a ground that is specific to the cam sensor?

Edited October 22, 201114 yr by skoebl

You're looking for an AC pulse in the 2V range. The cam and crank sensor wires both go directly to the ECU, no under hood grounds.

There is a sprocket that has to go past the sensor to make an AC pulse, again, go get yourself a manual. You just take the measurements across the connector. Why get junk yard ones untill you test the ones on the car first?

There is a sprocket that has to go past the sensor to make an AC pulse, again, go get yourself a manual. You just take the measurements across the connector. Why get junk yard ones untill you test the ones on the car first?

 

I got the sensor from the junkyard because it was free lol.

 

And I understand taking the measurements across the connector...but there are 3 wires. I can't really make sense of the wiring diagram as to which wire corresponds to what....

 

And I can't find a manual online (I have veeerry limited funds...so even if it's just scans that are related to what I need to know would be awesome)....

Ok so now I have another issue....

I replaced the cam angle sensor with a new one (yay gift from a friend!). I cleared the ECU codes (by unplugging the battery for a bit), and re-pulled them. I'm getting a consistent flash by the check engine light. It will just blink and blink and blink and blink. What the heck does that mean??

Isn't that how OBD1 returns error codes? Count the flashes.

 

Ok so now I have another issue....

I replaced the cam angle sensor with a new one (yay gift from a friend!). I cleared the ECU codes (by unplugging the battery for a bit), and re-pulled them. I'm getting a consistent flash by the check engine light. It will just blink and blink and blink and blink. What the heck does that mean??

I mean it just flashes consistently, with no breaks or pauses or anything.

ea81 blinks all the time to show it is got now codes.

 

I think i t bllnks a code for the year of vehicle at first, then if no codes, blinks all the time,

Well I suppose that's a good thing....but still doesn't solve the fact that the car won't start lol.

So what I've done so far:

 

Tested the coil - tests within spec, all plugs are firing at correct intervals

Checked fuel pump - seems to be functioning, fuel getting past the injectors

Replaced fuel filter - needed to anyway

Replaced Cam sensor - due to CEL code

Fuel injectors are spraying fuel, and they are getting signal at the correct time in correspondence with the spark plugs firing.

All the timing marks line up as they should.

 

 

So I'm currently getting constant flashes from the CEL (which apparently means there are no codes), and the car still won't fire up.....

 

I'm at a loss....what else is there to test??

Edited October 27, 201114 yr by skoebl

Is it possible that my ECU is bad? It seems to be the last thing on the list....Which sucks, 'cause I don't have $350 for one =(

Have we checked the engine temp sensor?

No I haven't checked that. Theoretically it would still fire even if it was messed up right?

Guess it couldn't hurt though lol.

So I unplugged the CTS, the only thing it changed was that the fans come on when the key is ON. Still no start.

 

Any other ideas?

I'm a noob, & dont know if I should give any input since I dont know much about soobs, so take my advice with much caution, but if I were in your shoes & dispirit, I think I might try a squirt of starting fluid, & see if engine would run a bit. If it does, then I would think it would rule out timing & ignition & thus I would look at fuel related issue. Remember, starter fluid is highly flammable, :Flame:safety first , have extinguisher near. The best of luck!

No it is one of the few things that can keep a subaru from starting. Imagine trying to start a cold engine without a choke, almost impossible to do. Now take theat very clunky fuel control system, refine it, and take away that (electronic) choke, its even worse.

So unplugging it isn't enough? Or was that in response to Bork's post?

 

This is killing me...I've checked everything it seems.

Fuel - ok

Spark - ok

Timing - ok

Cam/Crank Sensors - ok

 

What else is there? (besides the CTS....)

 

The CTS is only $24...should I just replace it anyway?

Edited October 29, 201114 yr by skoebl

And is there a better way to test if it's working than to just unplug it? Unplugging it made my fans turn on...which I assume means it thought the car was too hot?

Ok, I found the test in the service manual for it. It's getting 4.7V (which the manual says should be getting between .7 and 1.0V with the ignition ON), and it has around 3 kohms of resistance (which is what it should be).

 

In looking through the electrical tests with the ECU in the manual, it is saying to test pins that I don't have. What the heck? I understand non-turbo vs turbo, but there are still discrepancies....