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EA82 timing belt change.

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THANKS FOR your suggestions Bumblebeast...but no option as you describe comes up. ...

 

You're Welcome.

 

Maybe you're posting from a Smartphone or Tablet / non-Windows environment device, and thus explains the lack of options, like the ones that appears after a Right Click over a Photo...

 


 

... maybe play can occur after 20,000km in a cheap adjuster? Just a millimeter of play...

 

Yes, I've seen Cheap parts, such like Ball Bearings, getting play very easy and having short lifespans.

 

 

...can somebody please excuse my ignorance and tell me just what they think? Is there a reason that a cam sprocket doesn't want to move if the car is in neutral. Moves on one side but not the other.? ...

 

 

... I THINK THAT THE CAM SPROCKET SHOULD MOVE A BIT ...

 

Well, could be that certain internal parts might been exposed to rusting agents, such like Coolant on combustion chambers, the lack of a sparkplug making rain or debris to access there, etc ... and there might be a Seized part ... a charged hydraulic lifter ... it is hard to be sure without being there to inspect the engine, but you can compare it with the other one on your daily driver, when you do the timing belts' Job.

 

Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.

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  • OF course, there is a write up:brow: it is really easy to find. It is posted all over the place.   search for "ea82 timing belt check and replacement"   If you have any questions, just ask me. I

  • While it may seem daunting at first, the timing belt job on a EA82 is very easy!

  • i'd get the ebay kits with all new pulleys, great price for what you're getting. the pulleys are scrap by now and worse off than the timing belt by this time sine that's probably been replaced once..

so what I did was to put the crank shaft pulley back on....and put the belt on and let the crank shaft move the belt and the sprocket went to the correct position. then took off the belt....and moved the crankshaft pulley until the 3 little lines on the flywheel lined up with the "tooth edge".

but now I have the right side camshaft sprocket which does NOT have the little hole pointed up...rather it is about 1/4 turn past where it should be.

Is there a way to line it up so that is easy to do. Hitting the shaft of a screwdriver  slotted into a hole on the cam sprocket does just NOT  CUT THE MUSTARD......and I am hoping you guys have a trick to help.

Thanks

Rae

(ps .... this car is so old....that I have decided to use the tension adjuster that has the littlest play in it....and not spend 200$ *(Yes that is the cost in Australia....minimum for a known brand) for a kit with I already have most of the parts that are useable. My wife and I drive about 10,km per year max....so the car will fall apart from rust before we need another tensioner....I expect...could be wrong :lol: often am. :huh:

Thanks again for all the help fellows...just need the wife to help move the tensioner , (leveraging with a screwdriver) while I try to but the belts on.

so If you have a way to move that right cam sprocket...I will be very happy.

The cam sprockets are hard to turn because the springs that close the valves are strong. I took a metal bar, drilled 2 holes in it at the distance of 2 of the holes on the perimeter of the cam sprocket. Tapped the holes, screwed a bolt into the holes so that some sticks theough. Slip the bolts into the cam sprocket holes, and turn to the correct position.

nice work DaveT....thanks for the support. I was feeling for awhile that there was something wrong inside my piston area...and that some piece had jammed and caused the belt to snap. 

 

I don't know if I have made a slip up here....but I put the newer belt on , attaching crankcase pulley, and then ratcheted the crankcase pulley until the cam sprocket hole lined up with the timing belt cover notch.....

then I took the belt off.....and moved the flywheel to the 3 line position.

Now I have a feeling this is WRONG. ..because earlier reading guided me to understand the 3 lines on the flywheel had to be lined up BEFORE THE cam sprocket is put in place.

Can you or any other reader confirm my mistake....because I am at the point of putting the belt on the other sprocket to get it to turn into its position (after cranking the Left sprocket 180 degrees to put the "tiny hole" in the down position.

 

Grateful for all your replies.

There are full write ups on other threads on here. Put 3 lines on the mark. Put cam with small hole up. Install belt 1. Rotate the crank 1 full turn. Stopping on the 3 marks. Position 2nd crank sprocket with small hole at mark. Install belt 2. Small hole in opposition cam will be fully opposite it's mark now.

thanks Subaru NUt...I have read this....but previously I couldn't get the cams in the right position without using the crank pulley and belt to move the Cam Sprocket.  THEN  when cams were in position , I put the flywheel in position...and I just wanted to know, if do things in this order would make any difference.

thanks again.

You could use the belts and the crankshaft to get the sprockets into position, one at a time. But get them both set first, then do the timing mark alignment, and for real belt installs, including the 1 full turn between belts trick.

The Subaru is back on the road, and driving well (aside from a need for a replacement of the right axle, as both boots appear in poor condition) :wub:Finn2013

 

 

I would like to give a very, very big thanks to all and sundry for your help. Especially to the Might Bumblebeast, Dave T, and Subaru Nut.

 

You really made me feel important......by being so forthcoming with your suggestions ,, and in good time for me to keep the '""fix""" moving along.

 

Thanks AGAIN ;):)

TRIED AGAIN TO POST A PIC....BUT FAILED....GOING TO cv JOINT THREAD NOW TO ASK ANOTHER QUESTION. 

I'm glad to read the good news.  :) 

 

 

... I would like to give a very, very big thanks to all and sundry for your help. Especially to the Might Bumblebeast, Dave T, and Subaru Nut ...

 

You're Welcome!

 

 

 

TRIED AGAIN TO POST A PIC....BUT FAILED....

 

Are you completely Sure that you are pasting here, the web link that ends with .jpg?

 

Kind Regards.

Actually Bumblebeast....the jpg. does not show up in the  http address box...but under the picture. But if you send me an email address that you don't mind me having,  I can send you a snapshot ot what I see on the computer screen, with address in upper left corner.

 

rae

Actually Bumblebeast....the jpg. does not show up in the  http address box...but under the picture. But if you send me an email address that you don't mind me having,  I can send you a snapshot ot what I see on the computer screen, with address in upper left corner.

 

rae

 

Private Message Sent.

 

But if an URL address that ends with .jpg is displayed under the photo, you might copy it and paste it here... on a post.

 


 

Right now, I'm going to go on a small family Weekend trip, to fix another car that I'm repairing, If you want to see it, Click ~► HereSo please be Patient... I'll answer your e-mail as soon as Possible.

 

Kind Regards.

nice thought JesZek.

but the JPG is not a url under the picture....just a number like PC030087.JPG

it is in the url address differently

for example

https://imageshack.com/i/p52WzquKj

 

now for another question...in your experience is it the longer timing belt that usually snaps or the shorter one?

Regarding the Photos attached to Posts' Subject, I saw the photos you sent to my e-mail address, and let me tell you that now I know where lies the root of the problem you're experiencing, and it is the web Browser that you're using: internet explorer

 

Because it scrambles part of the URL address for "Security" reasons, the web addresses and URL links shown on your screen shots are incomplete; so I kindly suggest you to download, install and use another web Browser, and try again the process I that explained above, to share pictures and videos on your posts.

 

In my case, I've tried many web Browsers, and I chose Chrome by Google, because it always works seamlessly and fast with all my internet needs; but you might try any other you want.

 

Kind Regards.

...now for another question... in your experience is it the longer timing belt that usually snaps or the shorter one?

 

I've seen to fail more frequently the one that is on the Distributor's side.
 
Kind Regards.

Usually the longer one. Has more load on it. Oil pump.

After guessing a lot, I found rae's correct Web Link to his online photo album.

 

here it is:  ~► http://imageshack.com/i/p53WzquKj

 

You can click over that web address to go directly to the online photo album,

 

or you can paste each Photo here, using their individual URL address...

 

Let me try to paste a couple of photos from Rae's album, here:

 

 

3WzquK.jpg

 

 

YWZdcj.jpg

 

 

It works good, you only need to do a right click over the displayed photo at imageshack, and then choose: "Copy image's URLthen, come to do a post here, and after clicking on the image icon, paste the copied URL address in the dialog box... "Voilá" it works.   :) 

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Usually the longer one. Has more load on it. Oil pump.

 

Yes, but somehow we can say that belts' failure occurs quite randomly on both belts...

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

thanks...... I was going to keep the shorter belt which isn't broken in the boot of the wagon ...just in case.

For a long time, I carried a set of new ones in the car. 

Was looking at the two short belts today. The 'newer one' from the parts car was a DAYCO and I noticed that it was actually a shade thinner than the GATES belt from the 'car to be fixed'.  I was tempted to leave the old short belt in the car.....take a chance it would last another 50000 km before changing them again.

But in the end decided to use the newer belt despite it being thinner.

 

I DO wonder about the strength of these belts....and I wonder about keeping the 2nd used belt as a backup. New belts seem the go....but they are expensive to keep if you don't get a chance to use them....

Gates, in my own humble Opinion, are the very Best Belts you can use in your Subaru, right after the Original Subaru ones. Other brands might need a change a little Earlier, to prevent the car letting you stranded in the Middle of Nowhere.

 

Kind Regards.

I'll keep that old belt...you never know.

 

my old girl has been ticking for years now. Still runs amiably...although without much power going up hills.

I am wondering if I should have replaced the oil pump>>>>????

Water pump appears to be good for now...although was replaced (4 years ago) 40,000km ago.

 

Pity the oil pump needs to be replaced by first removing all that gear again.

 

rae

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