bogs out 1997 Outback wgn, 2.5, automatic, check eng lite is on after HG & timing belt replace by former line mechanic, (not me) . Car has 207K, would idle smooth, drive at low speeds OK, would finally stall out in drive way, funny smell(not the usual over rich new cat smell) from exhaust, no smoke, . Thought it was a faulty connecter to rear cat, as plugging and unplugging connector (to rearO2 ) that action temporarily put lite out; So then I drove it around the block w/ more throttle, it bogged out when I tried to floor it to check auto tranny kickdown, drove it home and revved it :Flame:to would bog out anything over 3100 3500 RPM. Then it doesn’t want to start until it sits awhile, funny part is that on cranking the check eng lite flickers on and off (not flashing) accompanied by what sounds like a relay pinging on and off -in syncro w/ flicker. Sound is definitely under dash. New to forum so go easy on me

Edited November 19, 201114 yr by propane
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It sure would be nice if you could get the Check engine light read.

 

Maybe the cat convertor is plugged????

fuel filter plugged? Put a new one, they are cheap and easy to install.

 

fuel pump going bad?

 

Also, as already advised, a plugged up cat converter can limit rpm, and therefore cause a bog down.

Yup, will try to chance driving it to Auto Z, to have codes read, clogged cat would be my choice as well, was hoping someone would chime in with that actual experience, have a used Y-pipe waiting in the wings, from a 96 Legacy should that be confirmed. thx for input and will do a proper post mortem Once its resolved. One other thought was that it was extensively driven w/ bad HGaskets,(3 jugs of freeze in the back) was blowing bubbles like mad in the puke jug, was wondering if that poisoned (rusty water)the catalytic, heads had to be milled and block was a little as well. Noticed that the old H G had grey goo as a sealer (a No no)

That flickering CEL makes me wonder... electrical? Plugs, wires, battery connections?

Didn’t have the codes read yet, was looking at the replacement ’96 Y pipe, saw that the O2 sensor plug was diff(sq.), was going to swap out O2 sensor (on '97 OBW, it prob will need replacing at its age and life) Wanted to swap on this other part to give it a varoom test to see if it “flowed” regardless. Before I spend $92 for an OE style O2 sender, du rigour . Been reading the other site on 0420 codes and interplay of cats front and rear O2 s etc

Edited November 19, 201114 yr by propane
extranous

I don't have any direct expericence on this Paticular Problem

However the post's I have read here and other Places.

would lead me to wonder if the guy that did the timing belt

change got everyting lined up correcly. I undersand that these

engines are very finicy when it comes to cam/ timing alignment.

one tooth off may be causing your problem and you cannot just

assume that you put a timing light on it and it show on time but

the cam may be off causing the valves to open/close too soon or

too late. just a suggestion.

That flickering CEL makes me wonder... electrical? Plugs, wires, battery connections?

 

 

yeah, definitely check the alt. voltage at higher rpms. I'd re-do every ground connection I could find as well.

 

fuel pressure/volume too.

Edited November 11, 201114 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

2.5L OBW --- never did check codes, yet. time to wrap up. By swapping in a 96 2.2 Y pipe (car was built in 08-94) an OBDII type; cured the flow problem as in Engine as "air pump". no more bogging out. conclusion the original cat was paritally clogged allowing good idle, but no power or upper RPM. Judging the amt of radiator straight water, rust, coolant that ended up in exhaust from previous owner,after H gasket failure perhaps the cat could have cleared its self. Doubtful, recycle for $

Lastly the flicker of CEL during over cranking (if it dont start in a few seconds, something is way wrong) was prob due to a mariginal battery, starter drawing most of the current away, causing the relay to pop open, reverting to key on, system check. thx for letting me post, and your input, some of U nailed right away, I was lucky to have the used parts for testing and replacement.(Colo is way kind for corrosion) I went w/ swapped sensors-(not wanting contaminated stuf) both fronts were Bosch, diff plug ins which I changed