It's the damn head gasket. And I can't afford a mechanic to fix it.

 

Anyone near by want to do it and cut me a deal on it?

Do it yourself!

Do it yourself!

 

Right, why didn't I think of that?

 

Oh yeah... insufficient tools, insufficient knowledge.

Right, why didn't I think of that?

 

Oh yeah... insufficient tools, insufficient knowledge.

 

You can rent all the tools you need at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts. As far as knowledge, we can walk you through it. As well there are many videos on YouTube that literally show you what to do, step by step.

Right, why didn't I think of that?

 

Oh yeah... insufficient tools, insufficient knowledge.

 

No better time to learn than when you are broke!

May the knowledge be with you!

You have the USMB on your side. All the knowledge you can possibly need for changing head gaskets is right here.

 

Tools, a basic set of metric tools can get this job done. The only specialty tools you need are a Torque wrench which can be rented, and a 12 point 14mm socket (get 1/2" drive) for the head bolts. Get a 1/2" drive breaker bar if you don't have one, at least a 16- 18 inch, the longer the better. (that's what she said )

I bought my last breaker bar from Sears for about $25 I think, but that was like 5 or 6 years ago. Good ol' Craftsman hasn't let me down yet. But if it does I can get a brand new one for free. Sears will also likely be the only place you'll find the socket you need.

 

Do your homework here, ask questions about anything that doesn't make sense, or anything that does make sense, get to know what you're doing before you do it and you'll be fine.

Once you get the engine out you'll realize how simple it is to take the head off. It isn't all that hard. Just take pictures of all the parts you took off to make sure you put them back in the right place.

Start by removing the guts from the thermostat - just leave the open metal ring to hold the gasket in place. That should suffice for a bit while you save money and decide what you want to do.

 

If you like - you could drive it down to Portland with the gutted thermostat and I could do the HG repair on-the-cheap in one long-ish day. Would probably run about $320 labor and about $200 parts. That's just the gaskets, seals, etc from the dealer and R&R the engine, resurface the heads by hand, reassemble and drop it in.

 

Assuming you reuse timing components, clutch (if applicable), etc it can be done on the cheap. It usually ends up running into the $1000 range because in my shop because people opt to do complete new timing components, clutch parts, plugs, wires, VC gaskets, etc. All that stuff adds up.

 

GD

Once you get the engine out you'll realize how simple it is to take the head off. It isn't all that hard. Just take pictures of all the parts you took off to make sure you put them back in the right place.

 

Engine has to come out, eh? Alright, let's now add to the list: Insufficient space.

 

Thanks to GD for actually giving me an answer applicable to my situation:

 

Start by removing the guts from the thermostat - just leave the open metal ring to hold the gasket in place. That should suffice for a bit while you save money and decide what you want to do.

 

If you like - you could drive it down to Portland with the gutted thermostat and I could do the HG repair on-the-cheap in one long-ish day. Would probably run about $320 labor and about $200 parts. That's just the gaskets, seals, etc from the dealer and R&R the engine, resurface the heads by hand, reassemble and drop it in.

 

Assuming you reuse timing components, clutch (if applicable), etc it can be done on the cheap. It usually ends up running into the $1000 range because in my shop because people opt to do complete new timing components, clutch parts, plugs, wires, VC gaskets, etc. All that stuff adds up.

 

GD

 

Doing the t-stat is how I found out about the HG. NONE of the other symptoms of a head gasket were present, because as I found out, the previous owner removed the thermostat. GRRR!

 

I may take you up on that offer. Because it's PDX, it's not going to be right away. Plus I'd still have to save up the money.

You can do the heads with the engine still in, you just have to jack it up a little bit to make for more clearance.

I Agree with This:

 

No better time to learn than when you are broke!

You Don't need to remove the Engine, but you must Rent Jack Stands for Safer working.

 

Kind Regards.

After looking at a couple YouTube videos of head gasket replacement, it's clear that it is definitely beyond my mechanical abilities.

 

When my title says "Hazard to Himself", that is not entirely a joke. My diagnostic abilities (which have been proven to be not so great, lately) are FAR better than my repair abilities when it comes to cars.

 

I appreciate the zeal for all of you do-it-yourselfers who are far more capable than me. But that's you, not me. Please respect that I am the kind of person who could put an eye out changing a tire.

 

Again, thanks GD for your pertinent response, and edrach for a PM'ed lead about someone who might be able to help me.

After looking at a couple YouTube videos of head gasket replacement, it's clear that it is definitely beyond my mechanical abilities.

 

When my title says "Hazard to Himself", that is not entirely a joke. My diagnostic abilities (which have been proven to be not so great, lately) are FAR better than my repair abilities when it comes to cars.

 

I appreciate the zeal for all of you do-it-yourselfers who are far more capable than me. But that's you, not me. Please respect that I am the kind of person who could put an eye out changing a tire.

 

Again, thanks GD for your pertinent response, and edrach for a PM'ed lead about someone who might be able to help me.

 

Try some of that Barrs Head Gasket sealer? Steal Seal? If you've got no options then it's worth a try.

Try some of that Barrs Head Gasket sealer? Steal Seal? If you've got no options then it's worth a try.

 

Only do this if you really hate the engine and want to buy a new one.

Only do this if you really hate the engine and want to buy a new one.

 

And, when you do finally get your HG fixed, before you run your engine, replace the radiator and possibly the heater core 'cause they will be clogged.

Only do this if you really hate the engine and want to buy a new one.

 

He doesn't have the money or the ability to do the work on his own, so the engine will either be used until it cooks and dies or it'll sit forever. In this case one might try a chemical sealant.

You dont immediately go for the stop-leak. First you gut the thermostat and run it till that doesn't work anymore - which could be thousands of miles or farther.

 

GD

Rick, what's the deal with removing the t-stat? I am curious how that works.

Obviously, t-stats open because the coolant surrounding them starts to heat up, allowing more coolant to flow. When exhaust gasses are escaping from the combustion chamber, entering the cooling system, the gasses seem to collect at the t-stat. If the t-stat is shrouded in exhaust gasses, it ain't gonna open. It's just not designed that way.

 

So, a gutted t-stat simply allows coolant to flow freely and the gasses find a way out of the system. At least that's the way I understand it.

That's essentially what's happening, yeah. The thermostat being gutted keeps the flow happening and gas bubbles are allowed to work their way to the top of the radiator and escape. As long as the gas bubbles don't interrupt the flow of coolant - they are essentially benign. Coolant flows and carries the heat away from the engine. The engine doesn't overheat. I've seen this work MANY times - cars that won't drive ten miles without overheating will generally drive fine without a thermostat.

 

Obviously it's a temporary solution but it will get you to your destination or to the shop where the repair is to be performed without a tow.

 

GD

You dont immediately go for the stop-leak. First you gut the thermostat and run it till that doesn't work anymore - which could be thousands of miles or farther.

 

GD

 

Which could be fun in itself. The radiator WAS leaking, and showed signs of having a sealant used on it. Who knows what kind of crap is floating around the cooling system at this point.

(and to clarify, it was not me that added said sealant. I'm not THAT dumb.)