My 1996 Legacy Outback, AT, 2.5L, AWD isn't getting any power to the rear differential. I put it up on jack stands with the engine running, in gear, and only the front transaxles move. Power transfers from side to side on the front but nothing goes to the rear. The drive shaft doesn't really move. It only creeps around even when load is applied the the front wheels. Is there some kind of clutch assembly in the transfer case (section)? Is it located at the tail end of the transmission.

Is there something electrical? There is not a fuse in the FWD and the FWD light isn't on. Any ifo would be helpful. Thanks!

Edited January 7, 201214 yr by MountainMan

Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car?

If so there is a fault in the Trans. The C-Duty is energized to dump pressure from the clutch pack to release the rear wheel drive.

 

If you put the FWD fuse in do you get the light on the dash?

 

Most likely mechanical failure in the tail housing.

 

Search Torque Bind and you will find some post with great pictures.

There are no trouble fault lights flashing or illuminated on the dash. When I put a fuse in the FWD, the FWD light does illuminate. Thanks for the info.

It sounds like a tired clutch pack. You can try a fluid change, but i think your clutches are shot.

I have a good clutch pack for you if you need it.

 

You need to drop the tail shaft to see what's up.

The clutch doesn't apply until you start opening the throttle. With it up on the jackstands, give it a rev and see if the rear drive suddenly engages. That's pretty normal operation for the AT, it's a FWD transmission with supplemental rear drive.

a test you can try.

 

with the car on jack stands, all 4 corners, disconnect the largest, 16 pin wire connector on the passenger rear of the engine. this connector goes to the trans. with this disconnected the trans will go into limp mode and the rear wheels will be / should be locked to the fronts. (if you drove it on dry pavement it would feel like a 4wd truck with the front hubs locked.)

 

start the car and put it in d, all 4 wheels should turn together.

 

slight variation if you only have 2 jack stands. this could be dangerous if you put the trans in D, be careful. jack up both wheels on one side of the car and place on jack stands. hand brake off. disconnect the connector to trans, place car in N and start the car. now turn the rear wheel by hand, the front wheel should turn with it.

 

you can also do this test with the connector undone and driving it on dry pavement in tight slow circles. because it will be in 3rd gear it will be very slow to go any where, but you should feel ''binding in tight slow circles.

 

if you have binding then the mechanical parts are there and working. no binding means something is missing or broken.

 

don't forget to reconnect the 16 pin plug.

Edited January 8, 201214 yr by johnceggleston

Actually at idle you would see spinning as the system is always applying at least 10% force in drive.

 

I don't recomend the two wheel method AT ALL since it is a bit of a crap shoot if you have an LSD or not. My outback is not supposed to have one and it does (And i am the second owner with the 1st being an older lady).

 

 

How many miles on it.

 

It really just seems like a tired clutch pack as this is the only failure mode that gives zero power to the rear wheels, unless your missing a driveshaft

Thanks for all the info!!! The cars engine is out on the bench getting new head gaskets at the moment. Soon as I get it back in car I will try the 16 pin connector test. Sounds good for troubleshooting. The car is on four jack stands. Mileage is 197,000. Middle aged.

Just wanted to thank everyone who responded to my problem. I replaced the transfer clutch pack and transfer duty soleinoid assembly. The clutches were shot. The AWD works great now. Thanks again!!

Just wanted to thank everyone who responded to my problem. I replaced the transfer clutch pack and transfer duty soleinoid assembly. The clutches were shot. The AWD works great now. Thanks again!!

 

There are 2 likely causes of the clutch pack going out on yours.

1. Car was towed with rear wheels down at some point

2. Someone put new tires on either end of the car and left old tires on the other end of car, and drove like that for a few thousand miles.

3. drove with the fuse in the AWD holder.

 

I am making a note on my table, to go out tomorrow and install a label over the fuse that says "DO NOT put fuse in here". may save the future owner some greivance.

Where do you buy the clutches and silonoid and how much are we talkin. 95 legacy 2.2 auto

I got mine through my local subaru dealer parts department. $380 for the transfer clutch pack, duty c solenoid and valve assembly, gaskets and seals. You may be able to get them cheaper online at subarupartsforyou.com