A few weeks ago I purchased an 82 Brat. Both front CV's were shot, so I ordered replacements. The issue I am having is removing the drivers side. Where the roll pin should be, there is something like solid metal on one side. The other side is open and does not quite line up with the hole in the transaxle stub. I have tried several good drill bits to drill it out with no success. The passenger side was not too difficult to replace. Any suggestions?

sounds like someone assembled it 180 degrees out, then used some unknown object instead of the proper pin.

 

My gut feeling would be to try using a drift or maybe sacrifice a drill bit, that is about or slightly less than ONE HALF the diameter of a 'real' pin. Then , try to hammer from the 'open' side to drive out the 'odd' pin. I have a mental picture that tells me it could work, but it might not lol! The angle just isn't right. But, even if it pushed it thru a little, you might be able to get some vicegrips on it.

 

Dunno how much time I'd spend on it until I just starting looking for a new stub.

I have tried 2 cobolt drill bits with no sucess. How hard is it to change out the transaxle stub?

I have tried 2 cobolt drill bits with no sucess. How hard is it to change out the transaxle stub?

 

 

Try a search cause, I have no experience on soobs older than 03.

 

Might just be held in by a circlip and popping it out (be prepared for diff oil to come out) should be all it takes. Coupla big screwdrivers maybe ? At least you might be able to work on it on a bench or with a drill press.

As far as I know, the stub axle on an '82 don't come out without transmission disassembly. Someone else might confirm this. I'm still not picturing why the pin (or whatever) is in there isn't coming out.

Whatever you do, do not break off anything hardened steal on the other end too. You will be in situation twice as bad if that happens.

 

Yeah they installed it off 180, and sounds like they broke off a punch end halfway on the other end...

 

 

Did you buy MWE, or what brand for axles? There are 2 brands that work, and ALL the other brands are junk.

I even tried heating it up with a propane torch and then drilling. I will look at small grinding bits for my dremel next. I bought autozone axles. I will redo my old ones for spares.........if I can ever get this one off of the Brat.

if i were you, the best advice i can give is take the autozone ones back before you take them out of the boxes, and ask for money back.

 

then go buy either MWE, or EMPI. Even though you have lifetime warranty on them, they are a joke from autozone. You will not regret taking them back and getting some good ones.

Read the threads on this.

I have Had the same problem with the roll-pin, the best thing I found was to get some nails that dint have a zinc coating on then and grins the end flat and keep hammering it till the object starts to poke thru, then take small vise grips and pull the pin out, I have also had to cut a larger cotter pin in half and use it the same way to drive the object out, the cotter pins is hardened steel so it will take a little more abuse than the nail, but is harder to drill out if it gets lodged in the hole.

I even tried heating it up with a propane torch and then drilling. I will look at small grinding bits for my dremel next. I bought autozone axles. I will redo my old ones for spares.........if I can ever get this one off of the Brat.

 

 

I assume Brats have an odd number of splines, so, that's why you might be ~180 out but still offset.. I tried to MSPaint the situation - without the splines!

 

the red line shows you what the problem is, someone misaligned the parts and probably hammered a nail part-way in one side;

 

Edited January 19, 201214 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

I swapped in a d/r transmission a couple months back and had a similar problem. I lost a screwdriver, two drill bits, an allen wrench or two, and mushroomed the head of a hardened steel punch (3/16"). Oh, and the roll pin from the other axle (which I thought I might use as a driver of sorts). The roll pin went in and I got the whole thing moving until it was about half out, then it jammed again. After more work and a punch and some choice words, the roll pins (plural) split and 'shattered'. And that was after I dropped the transmission and had it out in the open. I jammed a screwdriver in and couldn't get it out while the transmission was still in the car. Since I was swapping the transmission I only gave it a few hours before I gave up and just took the core to the junkyard complete with an axle attached.

 

If you don't mind a bit of a mess, you can take the axle off at the DOJ cup and put the new one on, minus the DOJ cup. That would probable be easier than dropping the whole transmission and f*ing around with the stub.

I finally got the darn thing off. I hated destroying the thing, but I used a grinder to grind down the area where the roll pin was inserted. After getting down to the spline, I was able to drive out the old drive pin. It was a serated type that had some type of solid pin driven into it. It must have been made out of unobtanium because no drill bit would go through it. Now I need to get the brakes to work a little better.

Texan, you are exactly correct. The only axle I ever changed, I put together like your drawing, then turned it 180 degrees before installing the pin.

 

Bill