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A/C Belt Idler Pulley '87 GL EA82 Engine

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Have a carburated 1.8L, EA82, '87 GL WGN, 5SP Manual, 4X4 with A/C and power steering. Looking for an A/C idler pulley. Dealer and local parts houses don't carry them anymore and salvage yards here in the KC, MO area don't have much in the way of subarus, especially the type of subaru I am looking for. Any suggestions? Can the bearing can be replaced, hopefully without damaging the pulley - I don't have another pulley to fall back on? Can this engine be operated safely without the A/C belt if I don't run the A/C system? Can this engine be converted to a non-A/C engine? If so, where can one find the right bracket and dual v-belt pulley alternator? Have also read that some have forced lubricant into the bearing but no feedback as to how well that works long term. Input would be appreciated. Thank you.

Edited by sunflowersubaru

You can make a bracket to eliminate the ac. I may have an idler pulley, I will look for it tomorrow.

IMAG0616.jpg

 

If this is it I can ship it to you. It has a snap ring inside and you can press the bearing out its an NSK 6202V bearing inside the pulley.

 

$20 shipped will toss in a bearing and a pulley assembly (shown) in a flat rate box. Phone number 720-440-1662 to order.

6202-2RS can be had from any bearing house for $5 or less. NAPA sells them as alternator bearings.

 

You can knock out the old bearing and install the new one with a bench vise, a punch, and a socket to drive in the new one. Very simple.

 

GD

  • Author

Here are some photos of my engine and the AC belt idler pulley.

 

Mounting bolts are the long hex shaped bolt on the left and the partially threaded-in bolt on the right.

 

When I spin the pulley I can hear it chirp, not short chirps but long chirps.

 

The number on the back side of the bracket looks like 773003, but the last digit is not completely clear.

 

Would like to pick up a spare idler pulley just in case.

 

In the mean time I will give NAPA a call re the bearing.

 

Thank you.

Standard EA82 AC tensioner - just replace the bearing and it will be fine. You aren't likely to need a spare in the car's lifetime.

 

GD

  • Author

Went to NAPA and they had the bearing. NAPA shop attached to the parts store installed the bearing for not much. Installed and it runs quiet. Have an extra bearing also just in case. Doubt the car will last long enough to use it.

 

I'd still like to pick up an idler pulley just in case this one goes south and cannot be salvaged.

 

Anyone recognize the idler pulley in the photos?

 

Thank you.

Edited by sunflowersubaru
Update

do you have the part # for the bearing? I'm in need of the same part.

Thanks

do you have the part # for the bearing? I'm in need of the same part.

Thanks

 

It's a 6202-2RS - you can get them at any bearing supply. They are common as dirt.

 

GD

  • Author

That is correct...NAPA 6206-2RSJ. This one is sealed with rubbler. The NAPA machine shop did the replacement.

 

By the way, does it matter how the bearing is sealed, metal or rubber? The metal sealed bearing is NAPA 6202-2ZJ.

 

Thank you.

-2RS is a double sealed bearing

 

-2Z or -ZZ is a sheilded bearing and is not sealed. Grease is allowed to move (albeit slowly) from the sheilded bearing to the bearing pocket. Thus sheilded bearings can lose grease and can exchange grease and particulates with the bearing pocket.

 

And there is such things and -RS, and -Z; these bearings have a seal or a sheild on only one side. They are rarely seen in practice because most often they just sell the ZZ or 2RS and tell you to remove one side. I have also bought "open" bearings without seals and then been given -ZZ bearing and told to remove the sheilds and wash out the grease from the bearing :drunk:

 

GD

Thanks for the Great info....but now I'm ignorant as to which is better and why for this application. Can you please educate? :-\

Sealed is best for automotive applications. Sheilded bearings are typically used in dry environments such as electric motors, etc.

 

GD

  • 4 weeks later...
-2RS is a double sealed bearing

 

-2Z or -ZZ is a sheilded bearing and is not sealed. Grease is allowed to move (albeit slowly) from the sheilded bearing to the bearing pocket. Thus sheilded bearings can lose grease and can exchange grease and particulates with the bearing pocket.

 

And there is such things and -RS, and -Z; these bearings have a seal or a sheild on only one side. They are rarely seen in practice because most often they just sell the ZZ or 2RS and tell you to remove one side. I have also bought "open" bearings without seals and then been given -ZZ bearing and told to remove the sheilds and wash out the grease from the bearing :drunk:

 

GD

does anyone know the bearing part number for ea81 AC idler?

mine is shot.

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